JNM
Expert Class
Posts: 109
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posted May 07, 2004 02:11 PM
Seat Cowl Permanent Fix!
Very simple. The two metal posts to the front of the cowl are the ones that the lock latches on to. On each post you will see a combo rubber/metal spacer. Take these off and put on a 1/16th inch thick flat plastic or rubber washer. Put the spacers back on, on top of the rubber washer. Also, you will find 2 rubber plugs that Kawasaki supplied with the cowl kit. When you install these on the rear single hook holes, make sure that the thicker part of the plug is facing outwards. These plugs go up against 2 metal tabs on the rear frame section. With all the above done, you will have to exert a little more force when pushing the cowl to catch the locks. Once it catches, it will be tight as hell - no movement. I don't have a digital camera, so sorry no pics. But it is so easy that it takes all of 5 minutes.
PS - If you really want to insure that your tailsection paint does not get damaged, place a 1/32nd flat metal washer between the front metal mounting bracket and the threaded metal clips that Kawi supplies for the bolts. I just finished mine, and trust me - you can't budge the fooking thing and there is ample clearance between plastic parts and no large gaps.
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CCS #428
  
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Michael Lee
Zone Head
Purchase Ivy
Posts: 729
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posted May 08, 2004 07:48 AM
thanks
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runninhorn
Expert Class
Posts: 442
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posted May 08, 2004 06:05 PM
quote:
Very simple. The two metal posts to the front of the cowl are the ones that the lock latches on to. On each post you will see a combo rubber/metal spacer. Take these off and put on a 1/16th inch thick flat plastic or rubber washer. Put the spacers back on, on top of the rubber washer. Also, you will find 2 rubber plugs that Kawasaki supplied with the cowl kit. When you install these on the rear single hook holes, make sure that the thicker part of the plug is facing outwards. These plugs go up against 2 metal tabs on the rear frame section. With all the above done, you will have to exert a little more force when pushing the cowl to catch the locks. Once it catches, it will be tight as hell - no movement. I don't have a digital camera, so sorry no pics. But it is so easy that it takes all of 5 minutes.
PS - If you really want to insure that your tailsection paint does not get damaged, place a 1/32nd flat metal washer between the front metal mounting bracket and the threaded metal clips that Kawi supplies for the bolts. I just finished mine, and trust me - you can't budge the fooking thing and there is ample clearance between plastic parts and no large gaps.
thanks, will go to the hardware store asap as soon as the cowl gets in, if it ever does.......
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Iculukn
Expert Class
Posts: 200
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posted May 09, 2004 01:30 AM
Awesome, thank you 
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A "99.99% open mind", is still closed!
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skullyeb
Expert Class
Posts: 101
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posted May 09, 2004 03:02 PM
Worked perfect, thanks....better then my quick fix!!!
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04 ZX10R BLUE,EURO FRONT SIGNALS,BALLISTIC LIC/BLINKER REAR BRACKET,LP V SHORT STALK REAR SIGNALS,SPOOL SLIDERS,PIAA EXTREME H7,SCOTTS DAMPER, REAR SEAT COWL, POWER BRONZE TINTED FRONT SCREEN, INTUITIVE FRAME SLIDERS, TANK SLAPPER TANK PROTECTOR, GALFER SS FRONT BLACK LINES, GALFER REAR BLACK LINE, PC3USB, MUZZY CARBON SLIP ON, MUZZY BLACK SOLO EXHAUST BRACKET, MUZZY FAN BLADE, REED VLAVE BLOCK OFF COVERS FROM KYLE RACING
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JNM
Expert Class
Posts: 109
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posted May 10, 2004 12:41 PM
Glad I could help. Took the bike out Sat. on some bumpy New England roads - seat cowl didn't budge. Enjoy.
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CCS #428
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skullyeb
Expert Class
Posts: 101
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posted May 10, 2004 12:52 PM
THAT WAS A GREAT TIP...I actually did not go and get a specific 1/16th washer, i just went to my basement with the collection of tons of nuts bolts etc and found 2 washers that were the same(think they are the crush washers from my stock zx12r banjo bolts) tried them out and worked perfect. Also took a pair of plyers and closed the rear hooks a little to make them fit tighter on the back support, got that suggestion from someone here also on the forum...thanks to all for the great info......
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04 ZX10R BLUE,EURO FRONT SIGNALS,BALLISTIC LIC/BLINKER REAR BRACKET,LP V SHORT STALK REAR SIGNALS,SPOOL SLIDERS,PIAA EXTREME H7,SCOTTS DAMPER, REAR SEAT COWL, POWER BRONZE TINTED FRONT SCREEN, INTUITIVE FRAME SLIDERS, TANK SLAPPER TANK PROTECTOR, GALFER SS FRONT BLACK LINES, GALFER REAR BLACK LINE, PC3USB, MUZZY CARBON SLIP ON, MUZZY BLACK SOLO EXHAUST BRACKET, MUZZY FAN BLADE, REED VLAVE BLOCK OFF COVERS FROM KYLE RACING
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JNM
Expert Class
Posts: 109
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posted May 10, 2004 01:04 PM
Yeah, doesn't have to be 1/16 exactly, but I did find with anything thicker it was near impossible to get the lock to catch. Either way, glad it worked out for you.
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CCS #428
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bluedevil
Expert Class
Posts: 115
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posted May 10, 2004 05:38 PM
Agree about using any close washer. It does not have to be rubber or platic washers because they will be on the bottom of the supplied rubber washers for compression.
Blue Devil
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johnnyboy
Expert Class
Posts: 315
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posted May 10, 2004 07:05 PM
I received my rear seat cowl today and I am not real happy with the look of it mounted. It looks so much cleaner with the seat on and that thick rubber pad is nasty as heck. If I mount the cowl, I'll have to find a decal to cover the five holes. I hope the after market presents us with an attractive alternative. Maybe it will grow on me, I know I couldn't stand the look of the ZX12R when I first saw it, now four years later I am still riding it like it was still new.
JB
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zx10Roger
Expert Class
Posts: 114
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posted May 11, 2004 07:55 PM
If you look at the lines from the back of the bike the seat cowl matches up nicely.It takes a little getting used to bit the cowl and the ball moto eliminater is sweet.
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johnnyboy
Expert Class
Posts: 315
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posted May 11, 2004 08:23 PM
One mans view and a creek in the front yard constitutes water front property? I htink not, the lines are disrupted, check the angles they do not compliment the tail section, the geometery is off. But a couple more of these Killians might make it right, just won't ride it tonight is all. Now the 12R cowl that I never mounted has a great line, conforms properly to the geometery of the bike very well, now those guys were on some really good stuff then.
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CanyonCarver
Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted May 11, 2004 09:18 PM
I have one, and it's growing on me, or I'm just getting used to it. I liked JNM's idea, but didn't have appropriate washers available, so tried a couple O-rings. Found a couple that fit around the posts, and it snugs up real well. It takes a firmer hand to latch it now, but it's rock solid.
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RichTJ99
Expert Class
Newbie
Posts: 153
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posted May 14, 2004 01:23 PM
I am still a little fuzzy on what to do. I will go take another look though. The washers go on the cowl itself, or on the bike?
2nd will this fix the issue with the cowl having gaps on where it meets the bike (a very slight gap).
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CanyonCarver
Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted May 14, 2004 11:40 PM
quote:
I am still a little fuzzy on what to do. I will go take another look though. The washers go on the cowl itself, or on the bike?
2nd will this fix the issue with the cowl having gaps on where it meets the bike (a very slight gap).
The washers go on the locking pins of the cowl itself. This won't fix the "very slight gap", but this is good, 'cause you don't want to eliminate the gap. If you do, the cowl will rub against the rear cowl bodywork and damage the finish. Solid, but with a slight gap is the goal, IMO.
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RichTJ99
Expert Class
Newbie
Posts: 153
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posted May 15, 2004 09:33 PM
i finally understand
Actually I put the washers in, couldnt close the seat cowl & then took them out.
When I took them out, i put the rubber/metal washer back down all the way & it actually made the cowl fit much nicer & without the gaps like before.
Thanks!
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