BA
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posted December 19, 2003 11:39 PM
What battery do I get???
Yeah, I know, I need an INTERSTATE battery right Mike?
But, which one! One with lots of juice for those hot days when it might get hard to turn over. 
  
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TurboBlew
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posted December 20, 2003 08:55 AM
Im pretty sure they are all the same part #. There is a battery for the VTX that Busa guys claim to have the highest CCAs of all stock batterys.
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted December 20, 2003 01:08 PM
 Edited By: your car is slow on 20 Dec 2003 19:33
I threw away my box..but I think it was the YUSA14B (could be wrong though)
*Edit
Just looked at my old stocker..its the 14BS
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MadMike
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posted December 21, 2003 03:04 PM
YTX14BS
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ra12r
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posted December 21, 2003 04:52 PM
Mike what makes that battery better?? I went with a FBG battery, cause the 14BS even new was not enough when hot.
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Megabyte
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posted December 21, 2003 05:48 PM
Edited By: Megabyte on 21 Dec 2003 20:19
quote:
Mike what makes that battery better?? I went with a FBG battery, cause the 14BS even new was not enough when hot.
Although I have the Interstate YTX14BS battery, my 1361 requires a 20-30 minute cool down when it's hot before it will start. How do you like the FBG battery?
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MadMike
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posted December 22, 2003 08:16 AM
I still do not understand why you guys are having those kinds of problems? I have a High Compression 1361 kit and I have never had a problem, I believe your starters are getting to hot. maybe you should try and put heat tape around the starters and see if that helps. also on your map's make sure you put the first line to all 0's on your timing.
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entropy
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posted December 22, 2003 08:43 AM
mike,
what are yr cams set up at? big numbers on the intake seem to make it start easier. As you know, i also used to have problems hot starting.
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MadMike
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posted December 22, 2003 02:13 PM
I have mine set at 106I/105E. so maybe that is what helps....
I thought when you changed your starter and starter clutch that went away?
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BA
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posted December 22, 2003 04:20 PM
Could be the timing as well.
If there is timing added in at the 500-1000 range, it will be harder to start.
No need to add any down there, heck, you could go -2 and probably take some load off the starter.
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TurboBlew
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posted December 22, 2003 06:58 PM
BA... why not go minus the max?
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BA
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posted December 22, 2003 07:57 PM
why does it feel like you're pulling my crank?
I'm as far from an expert as you can get, but, my explanation would be that you only want enough timing off of the engine to back off of the pressure of the ignition/spark explosion. That takes the load off the starter.
Taking that thinking one step further, I would guess that you could go "too far" and thus not have spark at the right timing to make the engine 'start'.
So, the magic question would be "how much is too much" when backing off. Unfortunately, I'm not experienced enough to answer. I'd bet that you could go as much as -5 and not cause a problem at 0-500rpm.
I'm not even sure what the "max" negative timing is that you can go on a PCIII. It's -5 on the manual advance/retard, isn't it?
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Megabyte
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posted December 22, 2003 09:16 PM
My timing is -5 from 0 to 1000 RPMs from 0 to 100% throttle. Takes several tries when cold, starts fine when warmed up, but refuses to start/crank when hot. If I put the battery on a charger, it's better for awhile. It's been this way from the beginning. I had a new Interstate battery installed with the 1361 kit. I have wondered if I got a bad battery.
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entropy
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posted December 23, 2003 12:16 AM
Edited By: entropy on 23 Dec 2003 02:45
i did everything I could think of to help hot starting on my hi compression 1427 except going to 24v starting:
.9 switch to turn on rad fan (keep motor from heating up as much)
1. mojo Odyssey gel cell battery mounted ahead of the r wheel (got it at Interstate)
2. new starter (prolly coulda just cleaned the brushes & armature)
3. replaced the starter clutch (a result of too many hard starts)
4. 4 ga wires & hi qual cable ends (helped a lot)
5. took timing outa 0-1000 (didn't do anything???)
6. went to 109 on intake cam timing (Muzzy cams)
Bottom line is I just had too much compression (255-260psi) and shoulda gone to 24v.
Johnny Cheese is in the process of actually measuring the Compression Ratio with buret and D Meyer advice; this time he'll add/subtract base gaskets to get CR = 13.5 or so.
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Megabyte
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posted December 23, 2003 07:47 AM
Edited By: Megabyte on 23 Dec 2003 07:48
"Bottom line is I just had too much compression (255-260psi) and shoulda gone to 24v. That's bout where I'm at."
I Never considered a 24v system. How does that work? Two batteries  ?
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entropy
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posted December 23, 2003 09:42 AM
MB, yep! you guessed it!
suzukihayabusa.org has a very complete description of how to do it. basically just put a 12v battery in series on the cable which goes from the starter relay to the starter. you can get tricky and have the bike's system charge the 2nd battery or just put a pig tail on it and charge it with an external charger. Hi compression Busa guys swear by 24v starting.
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ra12r
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posted December 24, 2003 06:57 AM
Well I put the FBG in the bike and that made it "possible" to start at after getting gas.....(most of the time). Then this year things just got progressiviely worse. So i finally took the battery out and charged it for about 15 minutes with my Jeep using jumper cable and put it back in the bike and the thing spun the motor like a it was a minibike! First problem is that the batteries are not getting a good full charge. So then i got tired of the charging the battery more and i got a second battery. Another gel cell and installed it in the tail. This gave me more cranking amps while staying 12v. I just ran the pos to the pos and grounded the rear battery on the frame. Since then i haven't had much issues, but i didn't get much use as i spun a bearing due to the oil filter issue.  But also remember that i had some charging issues too as my plug in the rear shorted out from the oil in the plug.
Mike, your bike is fine cause U are slow!!! hahahaha
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Megabyte
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posted December 25, 2003 10:23 PM
Will this one do?
YTX20-BS 18 6-7/8 3-5/16 6-1/6 270 CCA. It's somewhat bigger than our stock battery. I was wondering if anyone has tried to make it fit?
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jimo
Parking Attendant
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posted December 26, 2003 05:48 PM
Yes, the YTX20-BS WILL fit, but you have to modify the battery box to make it fit. What you have to do is drill out the stock rivets that hold the electronic parts on the left side of the battery box as it sits in the bike and move the bracket back (towards the left side of the bike) to make room for the longer YTX20. Drill new holes and rivet the bracket in place. Then you have to drill out the rivets for the bracket on the right side that holds the positive terminal that the starter wire attaches to. I had to unbend and rebend it until I had the proper clearance for the battery to fit and rivet that bracket back in place. It is a tight fit sliding the battery box back in due to the taller battery, but it does and will fit.
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Whimp
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posted December 27, 2003 09:46 PM
Good info Jimo! Thank You.  Duane
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Megabyte
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posted December 30, 2003 02:46 PM
Thanks for the Battery Info Jimo!
What if any special tools (90 degree drill...?) are required to drill out and move the brackets?
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jimo
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posted December 31, 2003 07:32 AM
No special tools needed other than a pop-rivet tool. The brackets are riveted to the battery tray that the battery sits in. When you remove the battery and tray, look at the bottom of the tray you will see the brackets riveted to it.
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Megabyte
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posted January 02, 2004 07:17 PM
Pressure release valve
I've heard about some high compression bikes using a pressure release value to enable them to start. Apparently, the value is manually opened and closes automatically on startup. How hard would this be to incorporate on a 12?
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Megabyte
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posted January 19, 2004 01:48 PM
4 Gauge Cables etc
If I replace the stock battery cables w/4 gauge, anybody know the lengths and # of calbes I need. Also, can I replace the starter cable w/o pulling it?
Thanks
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entropy
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posted January 20, 2004 11:03 AM
quote:
If I replace the stock battery cables w/4 gauge, anybody know the lengths and # of calbes I need. Also, can I replace the starter cable w/o pulling it?
Thanks
Megabyte,
the 4 gage cable comes in whatever length you need, prolly a 3-4' or less but better to get enough for fukups. Cut it into indiv cable lengths. The cable ends have to be crimped on, and its a special crimper. Getting cable ends to fit onto the block near the starter relay takes a bit of jiggery-pokery but its easily doable.
you can easily change out the starter cable without pulling the starter
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