posted November 05, 2003 01:31 PM
Which synthetic oil makes the most horsepower? So far I only used conventional oil in my bike. The bike now has about 6k miles on it. I was wondering if there was an oil that added essentially horsepower in a bottle while maintaining full protection. Also, something that is reasonably priced and easy to get. What weight should I buy?
What's the approximate price per quart? any feedback is appreciated!!
____________
9.78@155.13 mph 1.71 60 ft @ a near mile high dragstrip
posted November 05, 2003 03:11 PM
Everyone will have their own personal preference. For me it's Mobil 1 15w-50w ( Automobile oil ) have been using this in my bikes for over 20 years without 1 problem!
quote:I was wondering if there was an oil that added essentially horsepower in a bottle while maintaining full protection
Not going to find that combination in any oil I dont believe....those two features are generally inversely proportional to each other.
____________
Do not taunt happy fun ball!
posted November 05, 2003 04:38 PM
I dont think you will ever get the answer to that question, you never get the same HP when you dyno a bike!!!...Just use a brand name Full Synthetic and you cant go wrong!!!
____________ Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
posted November 05, 2003 07:48 PM
I go to the strip quite a darn bit and hadn't noticed any performance difference between Royal Purple, Motorex, Mobil 1 or Bel-Ray.
I use the Mobil 1 15w50 frequently these days though......seems like it's about $4/qt at Walmart. Slightly more at automotive stores.
posted November 06, 2003 04:55 AM
I've tried everything between Royal Purple 0/10 to Motul 10/40 fully synthetics at Maxton, the dragstrips and the dyno and can't pick up anything.
I have seen good results between dino & synth's though.
I agree with CrotchRocket.
Dan
posted November 06, 2003 12:51 PM
I did a before/after on Kevin's dyno and got no improvement going from Castrol 5W30 to Alisyn <0W synthetic. I run light Mobil 1, but I gave up looking for power out of that bottle.
posted November 06, 2003 02:55 PM
Thanks fellas, I was looking for all the horsepower i could find. I'll definately give the mobil 1 synthetic a try. 15-50 red cap.
____________
9.78@155.13 mph 1.71 60 ft @ a near mile high dragstrip
posted November 06, 2003 07:10 PM
Does anyone use the Mobile 1 thats actually for bikes? I think its the MX4T or something like that? I have been using Belray Semi synth 20/50 in all my bikes for years because its cheap $20 a gal, I change my oil and filter often due to drag racing but if I could find a full synthetic for $4-5 a qt, I would try it. I never hit 1500 miles on the same oil change. Less if I am racing a lot. 18.5k miles and still ticking (and spraying!).
posted November 06, 2003 08:16 PM
Used to use MX4T..but its twice as expensive as 15/50...and they are about the same ____________
Do not taunt happy fun ball!
posted November 07, 2003 06:52 AM
As far as protection, ANY (Auto or Motorcycle) pure synthetic oil is overkill. But if you want the best (From testing) Amsoil and Mobile 1 usually rank at the top. There are differences between auto & motorcycle as far as the oils formula, but really does not protect any better. Also do not waste your money changing your oil (Pure synthetic) every 2 or 3 K miles. You can safely run the oil 5K (or 1 year). I use MX4T in the summer, and Amsoil 0/40 in the winter, which gives me piece of mind.
I have seen dyno charts showing before and after (same bike/same day), with dino and pure synthetic that showed almost a 3hp gain.
quote:Also do not waste your money changing your oil (Pure synthetic) every 2 or 3 K miles. You can safely run the oil 5K (or 1 year).
Im assuming you mean if you only putter around on your bike.
Most of these guys beat on their bikes as much as possible..and an oil at used 1/4 mile at a time at pure WOT with modded motors, nitrous, etc....will destroy that oil LONG before 1 year or 5k miles ____________
Do not taunt happy fun ball!
posted November 07, 2003 08:22 AM
Synthetic oil was originally designed for jet engines, using it in combustion engine is way beyond overkill! I have seen lab test on pure synthetic oil with over 20K miles on it, which came out of a turbo diesel, and it still could provide safe protection. The reason it needs to be changed sooner is because of contamination (hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide).
This came from the Amsoil website,
"The 3000 mile oil change, in this day and age of high-performance synthetics, is in our opinion one of the biggest scams on the American public ever. Many of the same companies that continue to recommend the "3000 mile oil change" in the U.S. currently manufacture and/or recommend, and have for many years, 12,000-18,000 mile synthetic oil changes in Europe! In fact Europe's goal is to reach 30,000 mile oil change intervals in the near future. That is a proven fact that they don't want you to know".
"We have many customers with years of service and tens of thousands of miles on their Dodge Cummins Turbodiesels with no oil changes. Laboratory oil chemical analysis every 15-20,000 miles indicates the oil is perfectly suitable for continued service. Other customers have traveled well over 100,000 miles, and some several hundred thousand miles, and oil analysis still indicates no oil change necessary".
Amsoil is willing to send copies of lab results!
I use motorcycle specific oil because it gives me peace of mind. If you feel better changing your oil every thousand miles, it would not hurt!
posted November 07, 2003 10:10 AM
I agree with both of you.
If you DON"T deposit clutch material in the oil , you should be able to get 5k easily with protection to spare. Today's engines are better the oil is better than they were when the 3k change became the norm , why not increase the interval. Check out the new BMW oil change requirements.
Trust me BMW loves preventive maintence.
posted November 10, 2003 12:55 PM
Edited By: your car is slow on 10 Nov 2003 12:59
Comparing a turbo diesel motor that rarely sees any rpm above 3k...and an ultra high revving I4 motor that sees nothing but 7 - 12k for extended periods of time isnt exactly the most logical of comparisons.
Not to mention while the hydrocarbon chains may be perfectly acceptable when tested in a lab...the oil additives would be long since deteriorated by 5k miles (since that would likely be months and months worth of miles for a pure race vehicle)....compound that with clutch material...water/coolant/fuel/etc getting into the oil one way or another...and after a few months the oil may be good..but the stuff mixed in with it I wouldnt personally want cycling through my motor!
Its always been known that the actual MILEAGE of an oil change isnt the important factor(that 3000 mile thing is a frikkin joke)...but the time between changes is.
____________
Do not taunt happy fun ball!
posted November 14, 2003 10:14 AM
your car is slow,
There are very few additives in the better pure synthetics oils. They use a pure base that has NO additives. The oil is so pure they do not need additives to create the viscosity index needed. Therefor oil breaking down because of additives is not an issue. The oil that is used in the engine is filtered before it reaches the vital areas, therefor particles in the oil are not that much of a problem. The problem is when hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide (From combustion) are mixed with the oil and moisture from heat changes, it creates damaging acids that cause internal corrosion. As far as the protective properties of the oil breaking down, because of high performance (rpm) or thermal breakdown, it is not a factor until well after 10K miles. But, again, if it gives you peace of mind, change it every 200 miles.
posted November 14, 2003 12:37 PM
I never said I changed it every 200 miles...In fact its closer to 2000...however you can tell the oil coming out is dirty..and full of shit that doesnt need to be floating around in the motor.
Not all oil flows through the filter(unless the 12 isnt equipped with a bypass..but I think it is)...either way...I dont really care if the oil itself has not broken down...the crap thats contained/suspended in the oil I do not want going through my engine while I race it. Simple as that. ____________
Do not taunt happy fun ball!
posted November 17, 2003 07:51 AM
The bypass is a safety valve, when the filter is blocked/full of debris, it will open. ALL the oil that is pumped through the engine should be filtered.
Koz
All times are America/Va [ This thread is 2 pages long: 12Next» ]
HOME
NEW TOPIC
posted November 05, 2003 01:31 PM
posted November 05, 2003 03:11 PM
Edited By: 
