entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted September 08, 2003 03:20 AM
LED lights on tree: anyone else red lighting more??
Damn!
HRP switched from incandescent to LED's and seems like I am having trouble adjusting. Red lighting toooooo often. Am I the only one????? 
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted September 08, 2003 04:23 AM
there's no more "coming on... ON... going out... (.500 delay) coming on... ON... going out..." with these new LEDs so yes you are not the only one many people have complained about it. With LED lights it's "ON .500 ON .500 ON..." etc
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entropy
Moderator
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posted September 08, 2003 06:16 AM
Thanks Bergie,
I was beginning to think age was finally catching up with my eyes, like it has with other parts... 
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wannabe
Pro
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posted September 08, 2003 02:14 PM
Yup, we run LED's at the NHRA divisonal races. A bunch of the really good guys kept red-lighting after the switch while te rest of usnormal people rejoiced because our reaction times all of a sudden got a lot better.
LED's are the best thing that ever happened to drag racing.
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tccycles84
Expert Class
Posts: 124
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posted September 18, 2003 11:28 AM
need to not roll in and stag as far as you did before./ or let out about 3-5 psi of the front tire and this will help to increase your roll out
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted September 18, 2003 11:33 AM
quote:
... or let out about 3-5 psi of the front tire and this will help to increase your roll out
that would take me down to 50psi... 
staging very shallow MIGHT help, but pretty unlikely I'm gonna run lower pressure in my front tire. Tell me how lower pressure would help.
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wannabe
Pro
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posted September 18, 2003 12:49 PM
The lower pressure helps increase your reaction times by only about a couple hundreths. If that'll take you down to 50 psi, try going down even further. I run only 42-45 psi in the front. If you're consistently cutting 0.398 lights, lowering your tire pressure should take care of it. What it does is let the tire sit a bit lower in the beams so that the actual length that the tire has to travel to break out of the beams is slightly longer.
Another thing you can do to increase your reaction time is to reduce the play on your clutch cable. (this only works if you have adjusted it beyone the stock recommendation.) Or, of you preload your clutch at the line, just don't. The extra time requred for the clutch lever to engage is good for another few hundreths....sometimes more.
Good luck. I wish I had your problem. It's easier to slow the bike down than it is to get better reaction times.
At the Wed. Nite drags last night, I started with a 0.390 redlight. I adjusted my freeplay and proceeded to cut 0.480, 0.408, and 0.403 lights in the next three rounds. It's a lot easier to tweak the bike than it is to tweak yourself mentally.
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entropy
Moderator
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posted September 18, 2003 05:12 PM
wannabe, thanks for the explanation!
Prolly giving more lever helps with a bar bike w/a slick but if I launch without preloading the clutch I get tire spin and 60' goes from 1.4's to 1.7's or worse.
Lowering my front tire pressure for a couple hundreths won't help me enough.
I will never be much of an ET player, all I wanna do is go FASTER!
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Ra12r
Zone Head
Posts: 919
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posted September 18, 2003 06:20 PM
You wanna go faster, get a "STOCK" motor!!!! That has helped others on this board run 9.0's,,,,,,,,,,,,,,hahahahaha
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wannabe
Pro
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posted September 18, 2003 06:39 PM
quote:
wannabe, thanks for the explanation!
Prolly giving more lever helps with a bar bike w/a slick but if I launch without preloading the clutch I get tire spin and 60' goes from 1.4's to 1.7's or worse.
Lowering my front tire pressure for a couple hundreths won't help me enough.
I will never be much of an ET player, all I wanna do is go FASTER!
So, how bad are you redlighting? Are you running on a full or pro tree? 0.400 or 0.500?
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
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posted September 18, 2003 07:53 PM
quote:
You wanna go faster, get a "STOCK" motor!!!! That has helped others on this board run 9.0's,,,,,,,,,,,,,,hahahahaha
Dont forget mad skillz too yo.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted September 19, 2003 12:22 AM
 Edited By: entropy on 19 Sep 2003 01:43
wannabe,
we generally use a full tree (.500), and my redlight times are all over the .400's. Although sometimes I actually do get a green
Bergie said it exactly:
"there's no more "coming on... ON... going out... (.500 delay) coming on... ON... going out..." with these new LEDs so yes you are not the only one many people have complained about it. With LED lights it's "ON .500 ON .500 ON..." etc
I used to try to leave off the "ON" part of the 3rd yellow when the track used incandescent lights on the tree.
Now with LED's, when the 3rd yellow lights ON, I gotta pause, then go. Getting my mind (such as it is) to pause the right amount of time after seeing 3rd yellow is the challenge.
With a pretty TIGHT chain, Penske shock set up right?, 20 psi MCR2, & preloaded clutch, there isn't much slop in the bike and vehicle reaction time (is that the right term?)is low.
Even w/10" arm and big motor, the tire doesn't usually spin when the clutch is preloaded, bike just bolts outa the hole!! Woo-hoo!! 1.4's 60', , and then, a red lite .
The bike is getting close to a more or less balanced set up for my ole, fat ass. But after 504 passes, 10,000 newbie questions & 2.5 yrs of evolving mods it oughta be, eh?.
Now I just have to learn the right amount of "pause" after 3rd lite turns yellow. I don't care if it takes another 504 passes to learn this timing, this is my (sometimes frustrating) hobby
Man, my posts are getting like Reverend Red's...
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ErnestTeel
Parking Attendant
ErnestTeel
Posts: 2
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posted October 15, 2012 07:04 PM
I run only 42-45 psi in the front. If you're consistently cutting 0.398 lights, lowering your tire pressure should take care of it. What it does is let the tire sit a bit lower in the beams so that the actual length that the tire has to travel to break out of the beams is slightly longer.
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tcchin
Zone Head
Posts: 867
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posted October 15, 2012 08:00 PM
quote:
posted September 19, 2003 12:22 AM
!!!
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted October 16, 2012 12:08 AM
Edited By: entropy on 17 Oct 2012 06:22
9 year gravedigging...
the good ole days of bustin' shit; have someone build the motor, and then bustin' shit again.
took me forever to get an 8.79@159, now its commonplace to do that on a stock motor
in retrospect
1. Many thanks to Tim Chin, Doug Meyer, Jim Gilnack and many others for teaching me to build my own motors
2. thanks to Tommy Gates and Chris Brandon for sitting me down and showing me the flawless logic of shit canning my beloved ZX12, and building 2 record breaking 1635 NA LSR Busas.
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ErnestTeel
Parking Attendant
ErnestTeel
Posts: 2
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posted October 16, 2012 06:15 PM
I wish I had your problem. It's easier to slow the bike down than it is to get better reaction times.
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2000redrocket
Pro
Posts: 1662
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posted October 16, 2012 06:17 PM
wow ent. at 1635 they should be dam fast 
i was told i can not redlight if i leave on first sight of the last yellow. well he is wrong.
he says i am trying to time them> it sucks. i am much better on the bike than my car.
on the car i went to taller fronts and will use less air on the front runners. now for that car engine (again)
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted October 17, 2012 12:12 AM
Edited By: entropy on 17 Oct 2012 08:13
2000rr,
yep those 1635 LSR bikes are weapons, 280-285 NA hp.
Pure fun getting thru 1st gear.
My lil get off at March 2012 Texas Mile has sidelined me for 2013 so i sold both of em.
Oh well, at least they are VERY good hands.
karl
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DexterCaspers
Parking Attendant
DexterCaspers
Posts: 1
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posted December 17, 2012 09:45 PM
you preload your clutch at the line, just don't. The extra time requred for the clutch lever to engage is good for another few hundreths....sometimes more.
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