Bigbore4
Zone Head
Posts: 806
|
posted April 17, 2011 05:15 PM
ZX12 Clutch issue
Any of you guys with Muzzy clutches have a problem with disengagement?
Muzzy basket and hub kit and it just doesn't want to let go. The height is correct.
If I give it zero free travel and a bit, it will release, otherwise it drags worse than the stocker. The stock clutch was always a bit sticky when it was cold, but when it warmed up it was not so bad.
|
almost_les
Zone Head
Posts: 590
|
posted April 17, 2011 06:18 PM
worn actuator?
|
almost_les
Zone Head
Posts: 590
|
posted April 17, 2011 06:19 PM
|
Bigbore4
Zone Head
Posts: 806
|
posted April 17, 2011 06:22 PM
I don't think so, it actually looks pretty good shape. I'm going to try and take the inside judder spring out and see what happens. I have ridden some later 12's that had real nice disengagement and didn't clunk when you drop it in gear. This thing is so harsh it's irritating.
|
KZScott

Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
|
posted April 17, 2011 07:12 PM
allmost sounds like a warped steel or 2 to me? maybe a broken fiber?
the later 12s use 2 sets of the rings with the "small" fiber. i dont use any in my setup. all regular steels and fibers. no issues with it still grabbing unless theres something wrong. ive broken 2 of the small fibers....
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
motojoeyt

Novice Class
Posts: 75
|
posted April 17, 2011 11:48 PM
quote: allmost sounds like a warped steel or 2 to me? maybe a broken fiber?
the later 12s use 2 sets of the rings with the "small" fiber. i dont use any in my setup. all regular steels and fibers. no issues with it still grabbing unless theres something wrong. ive broken 2 of the small fibers....
I agree 100 percent. I always try to run the thickess steels possible to help reduce the chance of warping anything.
____________
8.81@154 DOT/Pump full street bike
|
Bigbore4
Zone Head
Posts: 806
|
posted April 18, 2011 09:28 AM
No offense pal, but I'm not looking for some newbies advice.
I'm asking someone that has experience with these bikes.
|
zx12mark
Pro
Posts: 1654
|
posted April 18, 2011 06:32 PM
then why are you asking Pal....your too stupid to fix it....he gave you good info.now fix the fucker and shut up.
|
dougmeyer

Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
|
posted April 18, 2011 08:26 PM
Wouldn't want to get too basic here and offend, but that clutch set up works perfectly if you follow the instructions on the stack height, make sure you are using the correct thickness steels, leave out the judder springs, and double check the arm and pull rod for wear and proper angle when you assemble it.
____________
It's not that I think you're dumb, it's just that so much of what you know isn't true....
|
Bigbore4
Zone Head
Posts: 806
|
posted April 19, 2011 03:08 AM
zx12 mark.......get stuffed.
Doug,
The stack height is exactly correct. I talked to the guys at Muzzys and they've said to leave the narrow friction with the anti judder spring in, as that is what the muzzy kit came with.
The pull rod is good, yet it refuses to release even as well as the stock setup, which was marginal at best.
I've ridden later model 12's that were slick as shit, so obviously somethings going on with the early models. I'll leave the narrow friction out and install a standard friction.
I did the break in on the motor with dino oil and have now put synthetic in with no difference in clutch action. Any idea's?
|
Shane661

Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted April 19, 2011 03:53 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 19 Apr 2011 11:54
My Muzzy would disengage, but it was less than smooth at some engagement points. I seem to recall that I had to readjust the cable down at the clutch cover (duh, right?). The later model 12's have the two thin friction plates and springs (with the 1.6mm steels, of course), so that may contribute to the smoothness you mentioned.
It has been a few years since I messed with mine, but I ended up going back to the oem 1.6mm plates and two thin plates/springs. I'll probably do some experimenting this year because I plan to make a lot of dragstrip passes on the 1287 bike.
Anyway, good luck with it and let us know what you find.
Shane
|
dougmeyer

Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
|
posted April 19, 2011 06:56 PM
Bigbore
Have you searched the ZX-12 board? There was a ton of discussion on this 10 years ago. 10 YEARS! OMYGOD
10 years......
____________
It's not that I think you're dumb, it's just that so much of what you know isn't true....
|
entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted April 19, 2011 11:12 PM
make sure you have the lil throwout bearing and it's shim mounted correctly.
Muzzy clutch works perfectly.
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
|
CrotchRocket

Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
|
posted April 20, 2011 10:23 AM
quote: Bigbore
Have you searched the ZX-12 board? There was a ton of discussion on this 10 years ago. 10 YEARS! OMYGOD
10 years......
Led Zepplin sang it best in their song, 10 years gone...
____________
Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
|
CrotchRocket

Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
|
posted April 20, 2011 10:35 AM
Edited By: CrotchRocket on 20 Apr 2011 18:40
Bigbore...
Try this...
1st. turn the clutch play adjuster at the clutch lever to have 4 threads showing...
Then Adjust the clutch play above the clutch cover, so the clutch lever has a little play again...
The Heavy Duty springs will cause it not to disengage when clutch is fresh...Until the clutch breaks in try rockin the bike back & forth while pulling it into nuetral or just shut the bike off put it in nuetral then start it back up...
Hope that helps...
____________
Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
|
Bigbore4
Zone Head
Posts: 806
|
posted April 20, 2011 05:50 PM
Thanks for the tips's everyone. I'll give it a go and see what happens.
|
JOHNJ
Novice Class
Posts: 70
|
posted April 21, 2011 09:49 AM
I just got done doing the same thing as you....And itv wouldn`t release until I put a few miles on it....After that and a final adj. on the lever and it straightened it self out..Sometimes its the excess oil still on the plates causing it to not release.
|
Bigbore4
Zone Head
Posts: 806
|
posted April 22, 2011 05:10 AM
I just gave it a really good run and it's much much better. I'm thinking maybe there is to much stiction between the fibers and steels until the get scuffed a bit.
|
Paul2281
Expert Class
Posts: 147
|
posted April 22, 2011 06:31 AM
quote: I just gave it a really good run and it's much much better. I'm thinking maybe there is to much stiction between the fibers and steels until the get scuffed a bit.
Yesss,way to go....Sometimes it just takes a little patience....
|
2000redrocket

Pro
Posts: 1662
|
posted April 23, 2011 03:29 PM
shane i promis you will brake the small frictions. i put the 2.0 steels in (need to add a thin one with a 2.0 for stack hight i think and put it outside someware) and it slipped much better. the first 1.6 all large frictions worked ok. the second set of all 1.6 frictions would not slip well and killed my 330. it did not chatter and was smooth but on the other hand it just pulled out and enguaged period. (that is why i tried the lockup setup)
when you brake a friction it will creep on you clutch in rpms up around 7000. that is when you need to stop and replace one or two frictions)
|
|
|