Bigbore4
Zone Head
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posted January 15, 2011 04:04 AM
Studded Mainline on ZX12
Here's a couple pics of the bottom end on the ol 12. The centre 3 are studs from ARP, the outside are 8mm studs from a company called Teco in the states. The output shaft journal is also 8mm and the other 3 trans journals are 6mm. Those are on the way from Teco.
Something aboput screwing into aluminum, I just don't like it. An anchored stud is way stronger and more consistent clamping force.
  
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 15, 2011 05:38 AM
Wwhen switching over to studs on the mains you need to check your main bores. Most likely you will need to line hone the mains.
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entropy
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posted January 15, 2011 06:26 AM
quote:
Wwhen switching over to studs on the mains you need to check your main bores. Most likely you will need to line hone the mains.
jim,
why is that???
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Bigbore4
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posted January 15, 2011 06:32 AM
I checked the mainline when I installed the arp studs, 2 years ago and it was as straight as it was with bolts. Been run hard since and no problem or abnormal wear on bearings.
I've just installed the 8mm studs on # 1 and 5 and it's still straight.
I believe the potential clamping force with studs vs bolts could be a problem if it exceeds the spec by to much?
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entropy
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posted January 15, 2011 06:43 AM
BB4, how different are the studs tq spec from OEM bolts??
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Bigbore4
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posted January 15, 2011 06:55 AM
I went with the factory torque specs according the the 12 manual. Because the stud is anchored, the torque applied at the nut will exceed the clamping force of a bolt, by a bit, due to flex and distortion of a bolt. The standard torque specs of a stud would exceed the Kaw specs by a fair bit, as the Kaw specs have the aluminum flange factored into it.
I'm pretty sure Jim can give a better explanation.
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entropy
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posted January 15, 2011 07:21 AM
 Edited By: entropy on 15 Jan 2011 15:39
i would look to the stud tq spec to give the proper stretch. hopefully that isn't so high as to distort the cases.
but i'm no expert on this stuff
Jim is an expert.
Tim Chin is an expert (and where the hell has he been?)
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chavcat
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posted January 15, 2011 07:23 AM
Can you forward a contact for Teco.
Thanks
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KZScott
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posted January 15, 2011 09:20 AM
quote:
quote:
Wwhen switching over to studs on the mains you need to check your main bores. Most likely you will need to line hone the mains.
jim,
why is that???
+1
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 16, 2011 11:21 AM
the whole reason for replacing a fastener with another is to increase the clamping force the bolt applies to the part.
So the replacement bolt is either made of a different material or its larger or both. There fore the torque required to get the proper stretch is usually higher with a bolt or stud that offers a higher clamping force for a given stretch.
The added clamping force often loads and stresses the part being clamped together differently which in turn can change the part dimensionally.
But it all depends on the part. Iron caps on a SBC will distort with studs. These bike cases are less prone to distortion, but you can see a few tenths change.
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