06redzx14
Pro
Posts: 1022
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posted November 21, 2010 07:44 PM
tips on cylinder prep
installing a set of stock bore JE pistons in my zx14. what tips would you guys recommend for cylinder prep?
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
  
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted November 22, 2010 05:51 PM
as in cleaning or a light hone?
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06redzx14
Pro
Posts: 1022
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posted November 22, 2010 06:08 PM
Both. Should I hone? The pistons use oem rings. This is the first engine I've ever had apart
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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whitehendrix
Zone Head
fails!
Posts: 757
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posted November 24, 2010 08:15 PM
CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
i mean in all facets.
clean work area, clean components, clean hands......
have you mic'd out everything and made sure all your clearances are correct? are they just stock replacement slugs?
honing is fairly straight forward, but you CAN fuck it up if you're not careful.
also depends on the hone used. a stone hone will have an adjustable spring pressure for the stones.. so, if you have that cranked in you can remove material if you just sit there and aren't paying attention. lol
are you looking on HOW to hone and assemble and all that or something bwyond basics.. by you saying this is your first motor build i can assume maybe it's all new to you.
me personally, i hone blocks using WD 40 and a stone hone, tho the "dingleberry" hones work nicely too. electric drill- fast in and out motion. the goal is to achieve a nice 45 degree corsshatch across the bore from top to bottom. typically a feedrate of50ipm or better at 1000 rpm will do that.
OR.. basically reallyfugginfast with the drill cranked in high gear.
be sure to keep the bore wet with oil.
i stop after about 10 seconds, spray it down with brakleen, inspect, then oil and finish honing.. usually another 10-20 seconds sometimes. you can also hone in a solvent tank with good results. i clean with windex and a paper town initially, then a lint-free rag and carb cleaner.
after that i hit the bore with motor oil to keep it from flash rusting while i work on the other bores.
now, as far as the assembly and all, again.. are these stock ass replacements as in the PTV and squish and all that nonsense is already the same as the stock pistonss, or are there slight variances you will need to take into consideration?
if the domes are different, or the valve pockets and a bit different it'll be something you want to look at if you're running anything outside stock cam timing.
assembly is straightforward. wear latex gloves when dealing with rods, pins, bolts etc. they will rust from the oils on your hands.. thing is, it's degenerative and can damage stuff over time.
not the ring package's specs. what the gaps are to be, what the ring orientation is, where they want the ring gaps at and all..
if al the specs are perfect and all your clearances are right on spot with the stock slugs and you have nothing to worry about, then assemble the block, make sure the pistons are in the bore the right way, slap the gasket and head on, and go do some wheelies.
lol
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Duct tape is the handyman's secret
weapon. The black is for formal
occasions. - ZRXDean
ill never own a busa unless
someone gives me one.... and then
ill sell it -KZScott
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06redzx14
Pro
Posts: 1022
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posted December 01, 2010 08:56 AM
thanks hendrix, now if i could just get off my ass and get started.
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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mathews
Expert Class
Posts: 425
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posted December 01, 2010 12:53 PM
A regular hone wont even scratch a Nikasil bore.You must use diamond hone
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted December 03, 2010 11:47 AM
ANY Stone can Scratch anything. What A lot of people use when the cylinders are in reasonable condition is the "Bottle Brush" . SOme people call them a Dingleberry. It has stone tips and will take the Glaze off of the cylinder walls and put in new Scratches for the rings to wok on.
The #1 problem with New Rings nowadays is Break In. I assemble my cylinders & Pistons with ND30 oil. Oil that was good in cars back in the late 1930 and 1940's. There are no Friction Modifiers or much of anything else. This is about as close as you can get to a "Dry" Start Up. The first few minutes are when a lot of the breaking in occurs and then is takes a lot of miles after that to finish the process.
If I am only breaking in rings and Pistons, I fill the engine with this oil and ride the bike carefully for about 50 miles. On the gas to do the break in up to 4K then off the gas to let everything cool and shrink. No cruising any where. then I change to the Cheapest Motorcycle Oil I can find for the next 450 miles where I have really been riding the bike a lot more seriously after about 100 or so miles.
Good Luck
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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Ozonkiller
Expert Class
Posts: 350
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posted December 03, 2010 07:55 PM
After machining (honing), wash the bores with hot soapy water, dry and then wipe the bores down with ATF on a clean rag and repeat until the rag show no signs of discoloration, just the red of the ATF. Then wipe with a dry rag.
When assembling, wipe a bit of motor oil in the bores and on the skirts of the pistons. You don't need to soak everything.
That's what's worked for me.
Tom
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smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted December 03, 2010 08:08 PM
quote:
After machining (honing), wash the bores with hot soapy water, dry and then wipe the bores down with ATF on a clean rag and repeat until the rag show no signs of discoloration, just the red of the ATF. Then wipe with a dry rag.
When assembling, wipe a bit of motor oil in the bores and on the skirts of the pistons. You don't need to soak everything.
That's what's worked for me.
Tom
+1 ...But if this is a low mile motor i would skip the hone job all togetther.. Unless you need more piston to wall clearance .. If it needs hone for clearance i would send to someone with the correct tools for the job ... Not knowing what you are doing with a hone may screw up the bores ..
I have put ( Drop in ) pistons in a few motors without anything but checking clearance and cleaning the bores .. They all ran fine and had no problems ..
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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Ozonkiller
Expert Class
Posts: 350
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posted December 03, 2010 08:24 PM
Very true, if it's a low mile motor, wash it, measure it and if it fits, run it.
I have the J&E's in mine and that's what I did. I think I had right at 4000 miles on mine and I had no problems what so ever with the rings sealing..
I don't mean to start another oil thread, but I've run synthetic in mine from the get go. That being said, there is no bad oil. Some folks insist on breaking in on dino and even, as stated earlier, non detergent. Do whatever is comfortable.
Years ago, MTC used to tell you to wipe the bores down with acetone and assemble. I just couldn't bring myself to go that route.
It's the internet... you'll have to decide for yourself which path to follow.
You'll really enjoy the feeling of satisfaction when you fire this thing up and reap the benfits of your labor.
Best of luck and keep us posted,
Tom
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