Y2KZX12R
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posted October 17, 2010 04:42 AM
Fogging your motor for the winter.
Here's a topic that I don't think I've ever seen on here before.
Now that the race season is near over I figured I'd remind everyone to fog there motors. Especially those of you that run these nasty race fuels. Letting the engine sit after running these fuels can ruin the engine.
Drain the fuel system and put some high octane pump fuel in it and run it for 10 minutes with no load on it reving it a little etc. Dont smack he throttle wide open and dont rev the piss out of it.
Then fog the motor. This will flush the fuel system and protect the rings and valvejob.
Many of you are going to tear the engine down anyway so don't bother but if you plan in parking it until spring then you should be fogging the motor.
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aliveagain
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posted October 17, 2010 05:33 AM
Exactly how much corrosion can happen over the winter?I ask this because my rebuilds can last almost as long as the winter season sometimes and I have never seen any corrosion start on the parts. Plus I usually start the motor and bring it up to temperature every three to four weeks. If anything, I would think the injectors would need winterizing. Any tips on that?
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Stuart Racing
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posted October 17, 2010 06:30 AM
 Edited By: Stuart Racing on 17 Oct 2010 17:46
I used to fog my drag race motors all the time...Because of the race fuels I was using the cyl`s would start corroding almost over night....Some of the oxygenated fuels are using alchol in them and it is really corrosive....They even make a fogging oil in a can specially for this reason.....
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Y2KZX12R
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posted October 17, 2010 09:32 AM
Pete it actually starts when you shut the engine off.
How bad it gets depends on what fuel, how you store it etc.
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KZScott
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posted October 17, 2010 12:24 PM
is there much point for a pump gas setup? (stored a few degrees above freezing)
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
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whitehendrix
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posted October 17, 2010 01:43 PM
"fogging a motor" is something new to me. whats that entail?
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Duct tape is the handyman's secret
weapon. The black is for formal
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ill never own a busa unless
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KZScott
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posted October 17, 2010 01:46 PM
Edited By: KZScott on 17 Oct 2010 21:51
quote:
.They even make a fogging oil in a can specially for this reason.....
coating everything to protect it from corrosion
http://www.ehow.com/about_4675032_fogging-oil.html
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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NOX
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posted October 17, 2010 02:55 PM
I always run pump through mine at the end of the year.........
Never fogged it, because sometimes I would run it in a jan race or something........., motors have always been fine, and looked great on the inside......., even with u4, as the only fuel i have run for like 6 years
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Stuart Racing
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posted October 17, 2010 04:45 PM
quote:
is there much point for a pump gas setup? (stored a few degrees above freezing)
Hey Scott...It really can`t hurt...Kinda like a preventive/precautionary type of procedure for a seriously built motor(s/s or tit. valves,seats,ect.ect)....If you`ve ever seen the top of a piston/combustion chamber after running some c14plus and sitting for a week you`d be fogging your motors(stock or built)...Corrosion big time.....JMO....
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Y2KZX12R
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posted October 18, 2010 02:12 AM
The pump fuels are not anywhere near as corrosive as some of the race fuels. Some race fuels are not anymore corrosive than pump gas. It really depends on the fuel.
Many of these new race fuels are not even gasoline as you know it any more. They are a concoction of chemicals with a gasoline base. They dont even smell like gas.
I don't even like to get the new fuels on my hands. Who the hell knows what these chemicals will do to you.
But they make great power. 
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dubious
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posted October 18, 2010 06:58 AM
propylene , the oxygen additive in race fuels is very bad for your health, as is MTBE.
I definately would not want that in my body, and they have high affinity for water, or are very absorbable.
The FDA banned MTBE years ago because it will literally never seperate from water, so I imagine your liver would just love the stuff. and its a known carcinogen
http://ca.water.usgs.gov/mtbe/fs20396/
I run pump fuel and seafoam fuel stabilizer through the bikes for 20 minutes, and leave some in the tank and system as its also a fuel stabilizer, so my fuel system doesn't gum up.
I like to fog my cylinders too.
I do this with my sleds, dirtbikes, and street bikes.
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Stuart Racing
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posted October 18, 2010 09:07 AM
I don`t even think you can get Propylene Oxide anymore, but they are using methanol/alchol now as an oxygen carrier,plus whatever else also.....I opened up a 5 gallon pale of some fuel one time and about knocked me out from the fumes.....
I follow the same routine as you....I`d rather change a set of plugs than a set of pistons or rings,lol....
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whitehendrix
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posted October 18, 2010 03:40 PM
is this something thats a standalone thing that gets hooked to a vac port?
sorta like a BG fuel system fogger would get hooked to a vac port on a car?
..little drip control and such..
____________
Duct tape is the handyman's secret
weapon. The black is for formal
occasions. - ZRXDean
ill never own a busa unless
someone gives me one.... and then
ill sell it -KZScott
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dubious
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posted October 18, 2010 05:43 PM
For those of us who have winter and park our bikes for months, we use the same stuff they use in boats and sleds, its engine storage oil, and its available at Napa or other places similar. It gets sprayed in the spark plug holes, and the motor can be turned over once in a while or some just leave it, in any event, the first time you fire the motor up it smokes like a 2 stroke, and burns off.
It prevents corrosion in the combsution chamber, and cylinders..
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gs11ezrydr
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posted October 18, 2010 08:07 PM
Winter Storage Tips
It’s the time of year, when we need to start thinking about putting up our toys for the season. These storage tips can apply to any type of machine like PWC, Marine engines, even lawnmowers. I want to concentrate on what I would hope is your most prized possession, your motorcycle. While doing these tasks, it’s always a good idea to make a to-do list of the changes, repairs, adjustments etc. you want to make before the next season starts. Keep it in a place where you can see it and be reminded before riding season. I have made this list in the order in what I think is most important, even though you may have to perform them in a different order if you choose to do them at all. First of all drain the carb(s). If equipped turn off the petcock, access the drain screws and drain the bowls and as with fuel injection add the correct amount of fuel stabilizer. Fill the fuel tank. Prevent fuel tank corrosion. An unprotected fuel tank will flash rust and corrode easily. You will want to run the machine a few minutes or so to fully distribute the stabilizer throughout the system. Re-drain the bowls. If storing with a full tank of fuel is not possible, like in your basement etc., it’s a good idea to use a heavy weight oil to coat the tank. Use 50w oil or thicker diluted with a little fuel sloshed around inside. The small amount of oil will also help lubricate the top end when you re-start in the spring. Battery care. If neglected or ignored all winter they will most likely roll over and die. The simplest way is to wire in a Battery Tender, or Optimate brand battery charger, therefore not having to remove the battery or if it is hard to access. It isn’t necessary to remove the battery unless it gets well below freezing. Like if you have a clock, audio system memory, security system, or other constant drain on the battery. If a Battery Tender isn’t within your budget (though it will probably pay for itself by spring), a trickle charger overnight every two weeks or so or even hooked to a timer thirty minutes each day will insure against battery failure. Maintance free batteries only require cleaning the terminals of corrosion and spraying some silicone spray or battery terminal protectant on the connections. If you have a conventional battery you should fill it with distilled water up to the full mark before storage. Again, if you leave it where it may freeze, it may do so and bust the case damaging your bike and anything around it. Even one drop of battery acid on a chain could render it useless. Finish care. Clean your bike fully before storing it. Dirt and dust hold moisture and insect butts (the last thing that went through their mind when they hit your bike) are corrosive and will damage paint and metal. Road salt is also very bad. If you wash it, you need to dry it fully. A good way is one last fast ride to blow out a those little nooks and crannies. Apply wax to all painted surfaces but don’t buff it off till spring. Wax or chrome polish should protect the chrome. Coat all other metals with an anti corrosive spray. S100 brand makes a wide variety of all types of protectants for windshields, paint, chrome, leather etc. and with good results. Exhaust pipes will corrode very easily if any moisture gets to them. You should spray them inside and out with something like WD40 or again a corrosion protectant. Cover them with plastic bags with rubber bands, heavy balloons etc. Use your imagination, like maybe say with straight pipes using some novelty type condoms to slip over the ends of them for protection also it could make a funny conversation piece to help pass the winter months. Now to the engine. I recommend changing the motor oil and filter before storage instead of in the spring. Here are some reasons. The oil in it now is broken down to a degree and has acids and contaminants and other evil compounds that are corrosive and eat away at metal and rubber parts and pieces within your engine. It will also insure that fresh oil and its additives have coated all the components throughout your engine before sitting. Warm the engine fully to get out all the used oil. Even though you may get a small amount of moisture and condensation throughout the off season it will boil off and evaporate after the first long ride .It should be fine. I also recommend with a longer storage of three months or more also in the case of a unexpected longer period to protect the cylinders, valves etc., remove the spark plugs and pour (no more than a teaspoon) of heavy weight oil into the holes and turn or roll over the motor a few turns to coat the rings, cylinder walls, valves etc.. Also if wanted (this is very effective), to use a fogging oil like in PWC or marine type applications. By spraying or hence the word (fogging) the engine through the intake tract, remove the air filter or housing etc. whatever applies and simply spray the fogging oil until you oil foul the plugs and the engine dies out. Again, the spark plug holes will suffice to spray through if the filter or housing is inaccessible. Yamaha motor company has a product called Ring Free fuel additive available only at your dealership that really works. Another method for preventing interior corrosion is to use storage plugs in the spark plug holes. These contain a desiccant to absorb moisture. Again plastic bags, tape, etc. may be used to seal off air boxes, inlets, vent hoses etc. After protecting from corrosion, resist the urge to run your engine and having to repeat all the processes. Running it for just a few minutes at a time probably does more harm than good. Just remember to remove all the bags, covers, tape, condoms, etc. before starting your bike in the spring. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture which is why it needs to be replaced. Do this at least every other year or sooner if it looses its clear amber color to a darker color. This applies to hydraulic operated clutches also. Moisture causes corrosion and also breaks down the fluid and reduces its boiling temperature and its ability to function properly and will fail in hot weather. Corrosion can also cause blockage that can result in the brakes locking up or not functioning when applied. Spring, fall, and whenever be sure old brake fluid gets replaced. Liquid cooled bikes need to have the coolant checked to insure it is up to standards for the climate you live in. Be sure it is full and well within the anti freezing range also it has anti boil properties that help cooling in hot weather. Now the tires. Inflate them to max operating pressure If possible raise them off the ground to prevent flat spots. Using a safe suitable stand. If on the ground, use a sheet of plywood with a vapor barrier under it and roll it around a few times a month to prevent flat spots. Store your tires away from sources of ozone such as electric motors in freezers, compressors, washing machines, welders etc. Don’t use any of the so-called preservative solutions that actually damage your tires. It’s better to use nothing. A good saying is if it moves lube it. You may need a wide variety of lubricants, greases, protectants, etc this includes linkages, locks, switches, cables, levers, kick stands etc. As far as storage goes inside, stay away from temperature swings from high to low. Use a breathable fabric that won’t trap moisture yet keeps dust off. If you must store outside, there are several purpose built motorcycle storage systems on the market. Such as The Bike Barn, Cycle Shed and others that seal out moisture and dust and use either a desiccant or electric dehumidifier to keep it dry. If your budget can stand it, you could rent a suitable storage building for the winter. Wherever you are and what you decide on, be sure to keep security in mind as to alarm systems, disc locks, or any of the large variety of security items that are on the market. Even tracking and recovery systems, forbidding it was to go that far. I’m sure that I might have overlooked some minor details here and there, but for the most part I believe that I have covered what I have found to be the most important. By following these steps they should help you eliminate costly, time consuming and unnecessary repairs. That’s all for now. See you next month.
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gs11ezrydr
Novice Class
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posted October 18, 2010 08:12 PM
The previous post is one that I published last month in a local biker magazine, Sorry about the size I wanted to just copy and paste the section about the fogging procedures. But hey there might be a few other things that may apply also.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted October 19, 2010 03:40 AM
quote:
I don`t even think you can get Propylene Oxide anymore, but they are using methanol/alchol now as an oxygen carrier,plus whatever else also.....I opened up a 5 gallon pale of some fuel one time and about knocked me out from the fumes.....
I follow the same routine as you....I`d rather change a set of plugs than a set of pistons or rings,lol....
That's true, Propylene Oxide is long gone from fuels. It causes severe birth defects.
Racers in the 1960's, during the hay-day of experimental fuels, were using it among a zillion other very bad chemicals.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted October 19, 2010 03:49 AM
gs11ezrydr
You bring up a good point. Change the engine oil in the fall when you put the bike away.
Run the engine until the engine is up to operating temp and then change the oil. Run the engine again for several minutes and then fog it.
Having the fresh engine oil in the engine neutralizes the acids that build up as a byproduct of combustion. In the spring you don't have to touch the engine oil and filter.
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2000redrocket
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posted October 21, 2010 01:50 PM
ok here is one thing no one said that could suck come spring.
anyone with a bigger than stock cam should think about turning the engine over to a different spot every week or so.a high lift cam has the spring squashed all winter if you do not move it around. we all know what happens to a engine with a week valve spring or one that brakes.
if not ask y2k what my valve pockets looked like when it swallowed a 2.19" valve head. and i took off my valve gear for the winter. (dam bad luck)
i turn my engine over with the starter every week. and run it at least once a month (sometimes more if the smell of race gas dissapates from my shop). hell plugs are cheep like the other guy said. for me it just takes a while to change from the bottom of the car.
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