posted August 22, 2010 01:33 PM
launching advice zx14 wondering if anyone has any advise on launching a zx14.....bike is a stock 2007......this is my first streetbike ive ever owned.....ive been drag racing for 9 years now and im very comfortable on the track.....ive just never ran a bike before a few days ago......
all the serious bike guys had a lot of info on getting down the track and busted my chops a bit for the zx14 as a first bike but i just wanted something that would at least scare me....lol...
my runs were very consistant except for the 1st.....first run was an 11.3...lol....after that 10 straight were 10.10'-10.2s@142-141....1/8mile traps were always 114mph.....60'times were 1.80's-1.9's..... the 1.80 was on the back wheel as well.....only mod was a strap to hold the front down.......im def a noob rider, but i was blown away how easy the bike is to ride.....during the shifts i also do not use the clutch to save on time......other than that i just really want the 60' down in the 1.6's....my mustang would have eaten me out of the hole....my launches were done by slipping the clutch around 6k...i never dropped it once(clutch)
any pointers would be great....thanks
____________
07 zx14 piped, commander 170whp
posted August 23, 2010 01:19 PM
Edited By: smokinZX14 on 23 Aug 2010 21:21
Drag racing 101
..
Gearing ... What works for one does not work for everyone ... You are going to have to spend some money and try a few different gear ratios to find what works for you ...At stock wheel base i use 17/40 .. At 62+ inches i use 16/41 ..
Staging RPMs .. Again what works for one doesn't work for everybody ... As for me at stock wheel base staging at 3500 works for me ... At 62+ inches staging at 5500 works for me ..You will have to do some testing to find what works for your riding style ..
For you guys that are drag racing for the first time forget about reaction times .. Reaction times have nothing to do with your ET or MPH ..You time doesn't start till you break the staging beams .. For now just go when you see green .. As you get better you can leave on the last yellow and improve your reaction times ..But for now you have many other things to work on ..
It's your race and nobody elses ...Pay no mind to the guy in the other lane .. You have pleanty to do so don't worry about the guy in the other lane ..
Time ... You have very little of it to do all the things you need to do ...In less than 1.5 seconds you have to get the clutch out , pin the throttle and while that is going on you need to think about wheel lift ( wheely ) .. In less than 4 seconds you need to make your first shift and tuck in tight ... 4 seconds is not a lot of time , take a stopwatch and click off 4 seconds and see for yourself.. See if you can even read the 5 things you need to do in 4 seconds muchless do it ..This is why seat time is so important .. With seat time you will be able to do these things without thinking about them .. What ? You think Jimmy Hendix popped out of his mothers belly playing purple haze ?
Leaving the starting line ... To be fast two things need to happen ..One get the clutch out , two pin the throttle ..I have the clutch out before i get to the tree and before i get to the 60 foot mark i have the throttle pinned .. Impossible you say ? Yes it's hard to do but NOT impossible .. I do this at stock wheel base with 60 foot times as low as 1.49 and NO wheelys..It comes down to timing , clutch release and throttle controll ..How do you learn this ? Again the answer is seat time ..You have to crawl before you can walk.. Tricks i use are knowing where you are on the track at any given time ... I use the tree and timmig cones as markers ...I know i have to release the clutch before i pass the tree and i have to have the throttle on on or before i get to the 60 foot cone ..To start off with just ride your bike like leaving a stop light on the street ...Look for the 60 foot cone , as you go by the cone make a note > is you clutch out ? First timers will find they have not released the clutch till way after the 60 foot mark .. I have seen guys not release the clutch till a 200 to 300 feet out ..But if you ask them they will tell you they had it out before the 60 foot mark .. This is why it is so important you know where you are at on the track at any given time .. Same goes for getting to full throttle ..I watch guys that don't twist the throttle on till the 330 cone but will tell me they had it on right out of the hole ..Have a buddy watch you and give you feed back on what you are doing or not doing ..This can be a big help and improve you ETs ..If you can get them to Video your runs , have the zoom in on your throttle hand and clutch hand .. Watch the videos and you will be suprized at what you see ..
Shift points .... For your best MPH you will need to shift just before you hit the RPM limiter .. On your tach that is 11200 .. The factory tach reads higher than what is reall doing .. 11200 is really about 10600 .. For guys just starting out i would get a shift light .. Reason why is you just don't have time to look at the tach in the few two gears .. After a lot of seat time the you will not need the shift light , you will be able to shift by the sound and feel of the engine .. As you get better you will have pleanty of time to see your tach and hit your shift points ...
Tuck ..Tuck is very important for two reasons .. One is to get out of the wind and get good MPH .. Two to keep your weight to the front of the bike ..This helps big time for stopping wheelys ..One inch to far back changes the hole game ..You have to work on keeping as far forward as possible and remain there in the first 2 gears ...If you slide back just an inch in first gear you will cause a unwanted wheely ..If you wheely you will chop the throttle or at least have to trim off some of the power ...If you want to go fast you can NOT do that .. Here is the problem most new guys have , if you are pulling on the bars to keep your body forward you will not twist the throttle .. If you are in a wheely you will not twist the throttle .. You have to over come that problem .. Some guys use cut seats so not to slide back and that can help some guys .. I use my legs to pinch the sides of the bike as well as my arms to stay in place .. But you have to train yourself to pull forward and trust yourself to twist the throttle as the same time ..It's not easy but it can be done with seat time ..
Shifting ...Slow shifts will kill MPH ..Bumping the rev limiter will kill MPH and ETs ..Short shifting will kill MPH and ET..Your first shift come in that short first 4 seconds while you are trying to doing 4 other things.. If you are foot shifting you have to get your feet back on the pegs in less than 4 short seconds .. This will also upset the bike if done wrong causing a wheely ..For me what works is to place my feet in front of the pegs at while staging ..That way all i have to do is lift up and set them on the pegs with one smooth move .. If you put your feet on the ground behind the pegs you have to make two moves , one to pick them up and another to move them forward while fighting the pull of the bike leaving the line .. If you use an air shifter you don't have to worry about this ..Myself I rather press a button than foot shift but that is up to you ..
So you think you are done at the finish line ? No you are not .. When you get on the return road go over the run in you head ..What did i do right ? What did i do wrong ? Make a note of it before you get you time ticket ..If you wait to think about it you will forget what you just did and chances are you will repeat what you did right or wrong and you will not no why..
Smooth is fast ...Smooth runs are allways the fastest ... Last week i watched two turbo bikes that made passes one after the other .. One was a pro and we had a small wheely and kind of a jurky run , he was fighting the bike all the way down the track ..It looked fast and everyone was jumping up to get a look .. It was a fast pass of 7.84 .. The next guy was a semi pro rider and his pass looked slow , no wheely , nice and smooth right down the center of the track .. No body jumped up to take a look ...His time ? His time was a jaw dropping 7.42 ... Smooth is fast ....My best runs where so smooth i felt they where slow untill i got a look at the ticket ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
posted August 23, 2010 03:32 PM
smokin thanks sooo much for the info.....lol sorry for being short tempered...lol the only question i have is letting the clutch out at 3500-4k quick wont cause a big bog????im assuming like you said the big trick is just trying to get wot as soon as possible....i will try again using the 4k launch and raise the revs from 10.5 to 11k....thanks again
____________
07 zx14 piped, commander 170whp
quote:smokin thanks sooo much for the info.....lol sorry for being short tempered...lol the only question i have is letting the clutch out at 3500-4k quick wont cause a big bog????im assuming like you said the big trick is just trying to get wot as soon as possible....i will try again using the 4k launch and raise the revs from 10.5 to 11k....thanks again
I Feed a bit of throttle as the clutch is coming out so no it bog the motor ..It takes some seat time but if you work at it you can do it ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
posted August 24, 2010 10:45 AM
I leave around 7k, but I also pre-load the clutch as the lights come down. I am also holding the front brake to keep from rolling...clutch comes out, throttle rolled on as the brake comes off. Leaves very smooth and all is controlled with the throttle. Very little clutch slip and easy on the drive train.
I don't wheelie much either, just forward momentum. Works for me.
quote:Drag racing 101
..
Gearing ... What works for one does not work for everyone ... You are going to have to spend some money and try a few different gear ratios to find what works for you ...At stock wheel base i use 17/40 .. At 62+ inches i use 16/41 ..
Staging RPMs .. Again what works for one doesn't work for everybody ... As for me at stock wheel base staging at 3500 works for me ... At 62+ inches staging at 5500 works for me ..You will have to do some testing to find what works for your riding style ..
For you guys that are drag racing for the first time forget about reaction times .. Reaction times have nothing to do with your ET or MPH ..You time doesn't start till you break the staging beams .. For now just go when you see green .. As you get better you can leave on the last yellow and improve your reaction times ..But for now you have many other things to work on ..
It's your race and nobody elses ...Pay no mind to the guy in the other lane .. You have pleanty to do so don't worry about the guy in the other lane ..
Time ... You have very little of it to do all the things you need to do ...In less than 1.5 seconds you have to get the clutch out , pin the throttle and while that is going on you need to think about wheel lift ( wheely ) .. In less than 4 seconds you need to make your first shift and tuck in tight ... 4 seconds is not a lot of time , take a stopwatch and click off 4 seconds and see for yourself.. See if you can even read the 5 things you need to do in 4 seconds muchless do it ..This is why seat time is so important .. With seat time you will be able to do these things without thinking about them .. What ? You think Jimmy Hendix popped out of his mothers belly playing purple haze ?
Leaving the starting line ... To be fast two things need to happen ..One get the clutch out , two pin the throttle ..I have the clutch out before i get to the tree and before i get to the 60 foot mark i have the throttle pinned .. Impossible you say ? Yes it's hard to do but NOT impossible .. I do this at stock wheel base with 60 foot times as low as 1.49 and NO wheelys..It comes down to timing , clutch release and throttle controll ..How do you learn this ? Again the answer is seat time ..You have to crawl before you can walk.. Tricks i use are knowing where you are on the track at any given time ... I use the tree and timmig cones as markers ...I know i have to release the clutch before i pass the tree and i have to have the throttle on on or before i get to the 60 foot cone ..To start off with just ride your bike like leaving a stop light on the street ...Look for the 60 foot cone , as you go by the cone make a note > is you clutch out ? First timers will find they have not released the clutch till way after the 60 foot mark .. I have seen guys not release the clutch till a 200 to 300 feet out ..But if you ask them they will tell you they had it out before the 60 foot mark .. This is why it is so important you know where you are at on the track at any given time .. Same goes for getting to full throttle ..I watch guys that don't twist the throttle on till the 330 cone but will tell me they had it on right out of the hole ..Have a buddy watch you and give you feed back on what you are doing or not doing ..This can be a big help and improve you ETs ..If you can get them to Video your runs , have the zoom in on your throttle hand and clutch hand .. Watch the videos and you will be suprized at what you see ..
Shift points .... For your best MPH you will need to shift just before you hit the RPM limiter .. On your tach that is 11200 .. The factory tach reads higher than what is reall doing .. 11200 is really about 10600 .. For guys just starting out i would get a shift light .. Reason why is you just don't have time to look at the tach in the few two gears .. After a lot of seat time the you will not need the shift light , you will be able to shift by the sound and feel of the engine .. As you get better you will have pleanty of time to see your tach and hit your shift points ...
Tuck ..Tuck is very important for two reasons .. One is to get out of the wind and get good MPH .. Two to keep your weight to the front of the bike ..This helps big time for stopping wheelys ..One inch to far back changes the hole game ..You have to work on keeping as far forward as possible and remain there in the first 2 gears ...If you slide back just an inch in first gear you will cause a unwanted wheely ..If you wheely you will chop the throttle or at least have to trim off some of the power ...If you want to go fast you can NOT do that .. Here is the problem most new guys have , if you are pulling on the bars to keep your body forward you will not twist the throttle .. If you are in a wheely you will not twist the throttle .. You have to over come that problem .. Some guys use cut seats so not to slide back and that can help some guys .. I use my legs to pinch the sides of the bike as well as my arms to stay in place .. But you have to train yourself to pull forward and trust yourself to twist the throttle as the same time ..It's not easy but it can be done with seat time ..
Shifting ...Slow shifts will kill MPH ..Bumping the rev limiter will kill MPH and ETs ..Short shifting will kill MPH and ET..Your first shift come in that short first 4 seconds while you are trying to doing 4 other things.. If you are foot shifting you have to get your feet back on the pegs in less than 4 short seconds .. This will also upset the bike if done wrong causing a wheely ..For me what works is to place my feet in front of the pegs at while staging ..That way all i have to do is lift up and set them on the pegs with one smooth move .. If you put your feet on the ground behind the pegs you have to make two moves , one to pick them up and another to move them forward while fighting the pull of the bike leaving the line .. If you use an air shifter you don't have to worry about this ..Myself I rather press a button than foot shift but that is up to you ..
So you think you are done at the finish line ? No you are not .. When you get on the return road go over the run in you head ..What did i do right ? What did i do wrong ? Make a note of it before you get you time ticket ..If you wait to think about it you will forget what you just did and chances are you will repeat what you did right or wrong and you will not no why..
Smooth is fast ...Smooth runs are allways the fastest ... Last week i watched two turbo bikes that made passes one after the other .. One was a pro and we had a small wheely and kind of a jurky run , he was fighting the bike all the way down the track ..It looked fast and everyone was jumping up to get a look .. It was a fast pass of 7.84 .. The next guy was a semi pro rider and his pass looked slow , no wheely , nice and smooth right down the center of the track .. No body jumped up to take a look ...His time ? His time was a jaw dropping 7.42 ... Smooth is fast ....My best runs where so smooth i felt they where slow untill i got a look at the ticket ..
Holy Shit Lee, nice write up my friend.
____________
09' ZX14
quote:Drag racing 101
..
Gearing ... What works for one does not work for everyone ... You are going to have to spend some money and try a few different gear ratios to find what works for you ...At stock wheel base i use 17/40 .. At 62+ inches i use 16/41 ..
Staging RPMs .. Again what works for one doesn't work for everybody ... As for me at stock wheel base staging at 3500 works for me ... At 62+ inches staging at 5500 works for me ..You will have to do some testing to find what works for your riding style ..
For you guys that are drag racing for the first time forget about reaction times .. Reaction times have nothing to do with your ET or MPH ..You time doesn't start till you break the staging beams .. For now just go when you see green .. As you get better you can leave on the last yellow and improve your reaction times ..But for now you have many other things to work on ..
It's your race and nobody elses ...Pay no mind to the guy in the other lane .. You have pleanty to do so don't worry about the guy in the other lane ..
Time ... You have very little of it to do all the things you need to do ...In less than 1.5 seconds you have to get the clutch out , pin the throttle and while that is going on you need to think about wheel lift ( wheely ) .. In less than 4 seconds you need to make your first shift and tuck in tight ... 4 seconds is not a lot of time , take a stopwatch and click off 4 seconds and see for yourself.. See if you can even read the 5 things you need to do in 4 seconds muchless do it ..This is why seat time is so important .. With seat time you will be able to do these things without thinking about them .. What ? You think Jimmy Hendix popped out of his mothers belly playing purple haze ?
Leaving the starting line ... To be fast two things need to happen ..One get the clutch out , two pin the throttle ..I have the clutch out before i get to the tree and before i get to the 60 foot mark i have the throttle pinned .. Impossible you say ? Yes it's hard to do but NOT impossible .. I do this at stock wheel base with 60 foot times as low as 1.49 and NO wheelys..It comes down to timing , clutch release and throttle controll ..How do you learn this ? Again the answer is seat time ..You have to crawl before you can walk.. Tricks i use are knowing where you are on the track at any given time ... I use the tree and timmig cones as markers ...I know i have to release the clutch before i pass the tree and i have to have the throttle on on or before i get to the 60 foot cone ..To start off with just ride your bike like leaving a stop light on the street ...Look for the 60 foot cone , as you go by the cone make a note > is you clutch out ? First timers will find they have not released the clutch till way after the 60 foot mark .. I have seen guys not release the clutch till a 200 to 300 feet out ..But if you ask them they will tell you they had it out before the 60 foot mark .. This is why it is so important you know where you are at on the track at any given time .. Same goes for getting to full throttle ..I watch guys that don't twist the throttle on till the 330 cone but will tell me they had it on right out of the hole ..Have a buddy watch you and give you feed back on what you are doing or not doing ..This can be a big help and improve you ETs ..If you can get them to Video your runs , have the zoom in on your throttle hand and clutch hand .. Watch the videos and you will be suprized at what you see ..
Shift points .... For your best MPH you will need to shift just before you hit the RPM limiter .. On your tach that is 11200 .. The factory tach reads higher than what is reall doing .. 11200 is really about 10600 .. For guys just starting out i would get a shift light .. Reason why is you just don't have time to look at the tach in the few two gears .. After a lot of seat time the you will not need the shift light , you will be able to shift by the sound and feel of the engine .. As you get better you will have pleanty of time to see your tach and hit your shift points ...
Tuck ..Tuck is very important for two reasons .. One is to get out of the wind and get good MPH .. Two to keep your weight to the front of the bike ..This helps big time for stopping wheelys ..One inch to far back changes the hole game ..You have to work on keeping as far forward as possible and remain there in the first 2 gears ...If you slide back just an inch in first gear you will cause a unwanted wheely ..If you wheely you will chop the throttle or at least have to trim off some of the power ...If you want to go fast you can NOT do that .. Here is the problem most new guys have , if you are pulling on the bars to keep your body forward you will not twist the throttle .. If you are in a wheely you will not twist the throttle .. You have to over come that problem .. Some guys use cut seats so not to slide back and that can help some guys .. I use my legs to pinch the sides of the bike as well as my arms to stay in place .. But you have to train yourself to pull forward and trust yourself to twist the throttle as the same time ..It's not easy but it can be done with seat time ..
Shifting ...Slow shifts will kill MPH ..Bumping the rev limiter will kill MPH and ETs ..Short shifting will kill MPH and ET..Your first shift come in that short first 4 seconds while you are trying to doing 4 other things.. If you are foot shifting you have to get your feet back on the pegs in less than 4 short seconds .. This will also upset the bike if done wrong causing a wheely ..For me what works is to place my feet in front of the pegs at while staging ..That way all i have to do is lift up and set them on the pegs with one smooth move .. If you put your feet on the ground behind the pegs you have to make two moves , one to pick them up and another to move them forward while fighting the pull of the bike leaving the line .. If you use an air shifter you don't have to worry about this ..Myself I rather press a button than foot shift but that is up to you ..
So you think you are done at the finish line ? No you are not .. When you get on the return road go over the run in you head ..What did i do right ? What did i do wrong ? Make a note of it before you get you time ticket ..If you wait to think about it you will forget what you just did and chances are you will repeat what you did right or wrong and you will not no why..
Smooth is fast ...Smooth runs are allways the fastest ... Last week i watched two turbo bikes that made passes one after the other .. One was a pro and we had a small wheely and kind of a jurky run , he was fighting the bike all the way down the track ..It looked fast and everyone was jumping up to get a look .. It was a fast pass of 7.84 .. The next guy was a semi pro rider and his pass looked slow , no wheely , nice and smooth right down the center of the track .. No body jumped up to take a look ...His time ? His time was a jaw dropping 7.42 ... Smooth is fast ....My best runs where so smooth i felt they where slow untill i got a look at the ticket ..
Holy Shit Lee, nice write up my friend.
AGREED!
If this site had a how-to section, or made posts sticky, this should be one.
____________
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
posted August 24, 2010 03:44 PM
Edited By: 2000redrocket on 24 Aug 2010 23:54
get rid of the sub throttles if they are still in. that will help also.
look at this vid. todd zoomes onto my clutch hand. you can see the staging then i pull it
in and let it out some till i feel the bike just start to creep. then let it out and be pinned by the tree. i am not the best so i would not tell you to do exactly this, but you can get a visual on what needs to be done by the tree or just after the tree. your bike has more torque so maybe not as many rpms for you. that 60ft was about a 1.54 i think at 4" extencions.
have fun
quote:Plus, tell the guys on the site "fuck you" more often. Seems to work well!
Shane i was writing it before he posted , i just didn't get it finshed in time .. ____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
quote:smokin thanks sooo much for the info.....lol sorry for being short tempered...lol the only question i have is letting the clutch out at 3500-4k quick wont cause a big bog????im assuming like you said the big trick is just trying to get wot as soon as possible....i will try again using the 4k launch and raise the revs from 10.5 to 11k....thanks again
you are correct, if the flies are still in on the 06-07 it will bog anywhere below 6000 RPM, then stand straight up.
remove them and remap as necessary. You will gain torque, and throttle control
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
posted August 25, 2010 03:10 AM
great write up Lee.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
quote:smokin thanks sooo much for the info.....lol sorry for being short tempered...lol the only question i have is letting the clutch out at 3500-4k quick wont cause a big bog????im assuming like you said the big trick is just trying to get wot as soon as possible....i will try again using the 4k launch and raise the revs from 10.5 to 11k....thanks again
you are correct, if the flies are still in on the 06-07 it will bog anywhere below 6000 RPM, then stand straight up.
remove them and remap as necessary. You will gain torque, and throttle control
they are still in ......would it be worth just getting the tre and a remap or just like you said removing these.......the bike is an 07........and what you said is exactly what happened my best launch i left on a bad wheelie......also can you drive the bike to the dyno for a new map babying it or should it be on a trailer
____________
07 zx14 piped, commander 170whp
posted August 25, 2010 10:12 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 25 Aug 2010 20:02
I believe you can download a map from the dynojet site, that will get you by until you get it mapped.
Who makes your exhaust?? There is probably a map available from the manufacturer.
posted August 25, 2010 11:32 AM
I have done 1.50 to 1.51 with flys in place ... Is it easier without the flys ? Yes ... Can you do it with flys in place? Yes ...
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
posted August 26, 2010 06:55 AM
Edited By: smokinZX14 on 26 Aug 2010 14:55
quote:smokin',
excellent, right to the point post, excellent.
I haven't been drag racing in about 4 years, but i do remember this.
i would add only one thing NOT to do.
do NOT nail the front brakes right after the traps.
Somtimes cars drop oil & such when they dump the throttle, it can be real slippery.
Lotsa bikes have gone down locking the front wheel there.
just a thought.
Karl
So true entropy.. I didn't say anything about that... This happens alot to bracket racers trying not to break out or run under their dail in ... Either way be easy on the brakes after the traps ... I use a little rear brake first and then start adding front brake .. I stay tucked untill i get just below 150 mph and then pop up and use my body as air brakes .. Point is don't grab a hand full of brakes or you may wash out the front tire ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
posted August 26, 2010 09:32 AM
smokin' sez:
" I use a little rear brake first and then start adding front brake ..."
EXACTLY!
I find that a lil rear brake stabilizes the bike and sets it up for front brake use.
Lotsa drag racing and Land Speed Racing folks say they never use the rear brake, i ain't one o' those people, nope
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
posted August 26, 2010 03:42 PM
Nice explanation Lee!!!
Rear brake in DragRacing?...Naaaa, my rear pads are loose cause I compressed the caliper piston so there is no friction on the rotor...
____________ Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
Rear brake in DragRacing?...Naaaa, my rear pads are loose cause I compressed the caliper piston so there is no friction on the rotor...
sorry Rick,
that's bad advice to a newbie, in fact, bad advice to anyone.
And from someone with yr experience, i'm surprised you'd even offer it.
prying back yr r pads to do what? gain a billionith of a sec.
better yet treat yr calipers right and there will be no drag.
IMO 51% of the laydowns on 1/4 mile are folks hitting the f brake after burnout or nailing the f brake too soon at the big end. Those accidents are 100% avoidable.
Use the FUKKEN rear brake
Are we still friends???
Karl
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
posted August 27, 2010 07:42 AM
Of course were still friends Karl.....
One of the reason why alot of Mcy Dragracers fall after the burnout are because of the rubber pebbles that dont get swept up from the cars...It sucks doin a burnout while walking the bike because of all the rubber pebbles on the front tire
I'v seen alot of guys in bracket racin grab the front brake & go down...Fuck That...Winning is not worth the problems one will have after goin down @ 150mph @ the finish line...
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posted August 22, 2010 01:33 PM
Edited By: 
