rtbain
Expert Class
old, fat and slow
Posts: 244
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posted July 24, 2010 05:39 AM
ZX14 motor build - comments most welcome
I am assembling a 2x5 ZX14 motor. Jim did his magic on the head (stage ii), CP rods and pistons, marine crank and Millennium bore and plate. The previous build was a +2mm over bore. At my first mile even there was some shrinkage between the cylinder which caused a leak. No real damage done. Head has been brought back flat and everything is ready to go.
I haven't built a motor in a number of years but used to be reasonably good at it, for a hack. I love building motors, it’s a Zen thing (well mostly) for me.
Everything will be measured then plastigaged for confirmation. All holes will be cc'ed and records kept. Mistakes will be made and parts will be muffed up. I am almost certain a fastener or two has grown legs and walked off during tear down. I have three recently calibrated SnapOn torque wrenches. A click stop ft/lb. A click stop in/lb, and a digital model. EVERYTHING will be torqued to spec. I will use the wrench that puts the desired values closest to the mid range of the wrench.
All gaskets, seals and o-rings will be replaced.
The crank and rods have already been measured and bearings ordered. The rods were in between so I ordered two sets of bearings just in case.
Here is the plan.
Install the pistons and cc the motor. I was planning on using grease to seal the piston. And water with food coloring (thanks Karl) for the cc’ing process.
Next step is to pull the head and cc all the ports and combustion chambers. Also cc the spark plug holes. I’ll be able to calculate CR with this information.
Pull the pistons, clean the grease and reinstall. Clay them, install the head, degree the cams, check valve clearance then rotate the motor.
Disassemble and use the pistons as a guide to check ring gap. I have a bore guage and will check taper. I will also use the pistons and ring gap to check for taper. Belt and suspenders.
Mock the motor and install in the frame. Mount the tiwinder and mark for EGT sensors. By the way if anyone is looking for Ti EGT sensors (1/8” NPT) I have a few sets.
Send the header out for welding.
Clean everything in the ultrasonic parts washer (that thing is the coolest thing on earth) and bag it.
Wait at the front door for the parts to arrive.
I am going with Royal Purple as an assembly lube. No molydisulfide to muck up the works. In my experience it can tend to end up in the pan.
I now there are a LOT of very experienced engine people out there. If anyone sees any problem with my process I would greatly appreciate your advice
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Randy
   
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whitehendrix
Zone Head
fails!
Posts: 757
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posted July 24, 2010 08:15 AM
well, ssounds like you haven't lost your touch in all those years man!! take pics for us who don't have the money to be in the ranks of engine building 
best of luck!
____________
Duct tape is the handyman's secret
weapon. The black is for formal
occasions. - ZRXDean
ill never own a busa unless
someone gives me one.... and then
ill sell it -KZScott
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted July 24, 2010 10:50 AM
Are you spraying this motor?
what piston clearance, ring gap, and bearing clearances you targeting?
PTV clearance?
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted July 24, 2010 04:14 PM
i use alcohol for cc-ing
set the cams before clay-ing
git after it!!!!
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This moderator uses moderation in moderation
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Ozonkiller
Expert Class
Posts: 350
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posted July 24, 2010 04:31 PM
When you cc the head, just assemble the head complete with a used set of spark plugs and fill the combustion chamber.
Personally I use alcohol with red food coloring. It evaporates nicely and cleans up in a jiffy.
When cc'ing the cylinders, install a top ring ( a used one is good) install it in the bore with some greasearound the top then slide the piston up so the grease gathers down in the area above the top ring and between the piston and cylinder wall.
When I check the piston to valve clearance, I always set my cam timing to the "riskiest" settings that I think that I'll ever set them at. That way if I ever change the timing in the future, I know that I'm OK
Bearing clearances, when in doubt, go loose. Tight will kill you in a heartbeat. I always set mine up loose anyway but that is one of those religious topics, kinda like oil and tires.
Good luck,
Tom
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