entropy
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posted December 09, 2007 06:34 PM
 Edited By: entropy on 9 Dec 2007 18:37
Y2K: magnetized crankshaft????
A while ago you made some comments about crankshafts getting magnetized.
Is there a downside other than being more difficult to clean steel particles off it???
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Y2KZX12R
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posted December 10, 2007 04:25 AM
Yes, it collects very very fine abrasive grit while the engine is running. Its very very bad to have any parts magnatized in an engine. If magnafluxing isnt done correctly the part is left with a magnettic charge and will cause abnormal wear.
When we get brandnew parts in we always check them for a magnetic field and cancel it out if needed.
Many many times new or reground parts that have been magnafluxed in the past still have a charge because the guy doing the magnafluxing either forgot to remove the charge of didnt care.
My zx12r crank had a charge after the stroker weldup and regrind.
The worst is rods. If they have a charge and you are running bronze pin bushings, its very very bad.
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entropy
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posted December 10, 2007 05:45 AM
My bearings alway look shitty no matter how careful i am sizing them or how new/old they are when i pull the motor down.
Is it possible that a magnetized crank could generate a current and impact the bearings???
I clean the living hell out of the crank before assembly but never thought about a mag field.
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted December 10, 2007 06:25 AM
Just curious what the flywheel is made of? Once its on the crank does it not transfer
some amount of a magnetic field? I have not checked but maybe when I get home,
I'll take a look at an old crank and flywheel.
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osti33
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posted December 10, 2007 07:07 PM
Hmmm.. I'll have to check my crank when it shows up. Good info guys. 
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Y2KZX12R
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posted December 11, 2007 04:48 AM
quote:
My bearings alway look shitty no matter how careful i am sizing them or how new/old they are when i pull the motor down.
Is it possible that a magnetized crank could generate a current and impact the bearings???
I clean the living hell out of the crank before assembly but never thought about a mag field.
It just grabs the particulates and holds them in clumps untill the velocity of oil tears a clump free and sends it right to the bearings.
On another note, These stroker cranks are VERY dirty when they come from the crank shop.
The oil passages are full of crud. At least mine was. You should use a rifle bore brush and a good solvent to clean those passages.
This could also be another reason for the infamous "stroker failures" that have given stroker motors a bad rap.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted December 11, 2007 04:50 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 11 Dec 2007 04:55
TRN, thats a good question. I magnafluxed my stroker crank on teardown but didnt recheck for a field before i magnatized it for rechecking. But i know it doesnt have a field after I demag it, i always run the magnetometer over all parts very carefully after I'm done.
But it would be interesting to see if a crank that you know had no field at assembly, had a field at disassembly on that end of the crank from the flywheel. I never thought to check for that.
Ryan, use a magnetometer if you can find one. Some of the tool catalogs have them. There not very expensive.
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osti33
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posted December 11, 2007 06:32 AM
quote:
Ryan, use a magnetometer if you can find one. Some of the tool catalogs have them. There not very expensive.
Will do.
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Texas12R
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posted December 13, 2007 06:50 AM
http://www.gaussbusters.com/ppm93.html
Interesting read and I never considered this when using the induction heater on bearings
It looks like an often overlooked factor in rotating assemblies.....
Great subject Karl 
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entropy
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posted December 13, 2007 07:33 AM
quote:
http://www.gaussbusters.com/ppm93.html
Interesting read and I never considered this when using the induction heater on bearings
It looks like an often overlooked factor in rotating assemblies.....
Great subject Karl
Texas12r,
YOU ARE DA MAN!
Excellent paper!
Thanks
;bigthumb
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Y2KZX12R
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posted December 13, 2007 02:10 PM
The picture of the "B" magnet is exactly whats used to magnatize a crank or rods etc. for fluxing. You pass the crank (or what ever part) thru the magnetic field and then turn on the black light in the dark booth and then pour the flux over the part. You look for cracks.
The last step of passing the part back thru the magnet and checking to make sure you removed the magnettic field you induced into the part is the one thats VERY important.
You must check the part to make shure the field is removed completely. A lot of shops dont bother to demag the part or id they do they dont check it with the magnetometer.
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entropy
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posted December 18, 2007 12:47 AM
On Sunday I had a couple hours to spare, so i decided to pull my motor down and see if the crank was magnetized.
Yep, it is. one side is "N" and the other is "S".
So how do i get it degaussed???
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KZScott
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posted December 18, 2007 01:23 AM
doesnt high heat "kill" a magnet? would "baking" a crank in an oven (make sure the wife isnt home Karl) do the trick(cheap and easy) or am i completely off base? lol
just throwing out my wild ass guess :P
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
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Y2KZX12R
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posted December 18, 2007 04:10 AM
Karl, take it to a shop that can do magnafluxing. They can demagnatize it in a few min for you.
I've never heard of baking somthing to remove the field.
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tcchin
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posted December 18, 2007 08:25 AM
You would have to bake it beyond the recrystallization temp (>2000*F) in order to remove the magnetization.
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entropy
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posted December 18, 2007 10:17 AM
hmmmm...
I did my MSc thesis on Paleomagnetism and Magnetic Crystallography but to be homest I can't remember a damn thing about it other than I dedicated my thesis to J Robert Oppenheimer for "enabling me to write this thesis in English"
I thought it was funny at the time.
still do
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tcchin
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posted December 18, 2007 10:47 AM
I blew off my MSME thesis and subsequently never completed my coursework. I thought it was funny at the time. Not so much now...
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KZScott
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posted December 18, 2007 11:55 AM
quote:
You would have to bake it beyond the recrystallization temp (>2000*F) in order to remove the magnetization.
damn, there goes my cheap and easy idea lol.
good info
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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ninja12
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posted December 18, 2007 03:08 PM
Edited By: ninja12 on 18 Dec 2007 15:09
quote:
On Sunday I had a couple hours to spare, so i decided to pull my motor down and see if the crank was magnetized.
Yep, it is. one side is "N" and the other is "S".
So how do i get it degaussed???
You must have quik connector on that motor.
I wish I had your motivation.
Do you want to build my motor too?
You can even put some of your 'junk' parts in it. 
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osti33
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posted December 18, 2007 04:25 PM
quote:
On Sunday I had a couple hours to spare, so i decided to pull my motor down and see if the crank was magnetized.
Yep, it is. one side is "N" and the other is "S".
So how do i get it degaussed???
Your an animal. "couple of hours to spare"
Takes me a couple of hours just sit down and think about the best way to take it out. lol.
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KZScott
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posted December 18, 2007 05:38 PM
i bet he doesnt even bother with a manual... has all the tourque specs memorized ect...
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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entropy
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posted December 19, 2007 12:19 AM
Edited By: entropy on 19 Dec 2007 00:42
i did have a small issue which induced me to plunge my filthy hands into her steaming purple guts, but mostly i was curious what her organs looked like after all the recent dyno time at 10-12,000.
With a lil elbow grease & Budlite it'll get back together this weekend.
time for some "boundary conditions" cam tests.
BTW: BIG thanks to TChin & NOX for inducing me to start using Royal Purple.
My bearings still look like shit but i love the color, matches my fuel and contrasts quite nicely with RedLine assembly lube I'm happy.
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted December 19, 2007 06:42 AM
Just curious, any bearing pics? Mains or rod or both? Were they all about the same or were some worse than others?
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ninja12
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posted December 19, 2007 12:38 PM
Karl, What do you mean 'look like shit'?
Are they wearing uneven or hot spots? ?
explain.
I've always heard of these big gansta motors that were good for 20 passes between rebuilds but never really understood the details.
Like TRN says pics?
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entropy
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posted December 23, 2007 09:24 AM
Edited By: entropy on 23 Dec 2007 09:29
gerard,
i assume you saw the pic on the other thread; rods bearings sure look like shit to me. (as little as i know)
the mains look much better, prob even re-run em for the build this weekend.
next time i pull down the motor the rod bearings will prob look even worse, cause i just jacked up the CR a bit more.
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