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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: nitrous install pics NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
RAC4IT


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Bergie
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posted July 05, 2002 02:02 PM        Edited By: RAC4IT on 5 Jul 2002 15:04
nitrous install pics

I just took these 10 minutes ago.. just installed the nitrous nozzle and connected it to C02 (airshifter bottle) to see if it worked okay. Need to do the wiring now (the painful part). I tested it just by connecting the solenoid to my turn signal and test fired it about 10 times as it blinked.. looks like it works good.

http://www.dontbescaredracing.com/photos/n20

I drilled and tapped the nozzle in the airbox at the same angle as the airfilters and used the thicker welded area around the tank support just in front of the airfilters for more 'bite' because by my estimate the airbox is generally just too thin otherwise for a good thread to bite. This worked out very well.





Seems to give even distribution of the airbox by bouncing off the floor from what I can tell. I dropped my digital camera down in the airbox so you can see what it looks like inside.



I routed and ziptied the flexline alongside the stock wiring harness to the tailsection.



Now for the fun part.. wiring! Stay tuned!

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madmike


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posted July 05, 2002 02:06 PM        
Looks good man!! cant wait to see what you gain??
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Your Car Is Slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted July 05, 2002 03:09 PM        
Very clean...I tapped mine in front of the fusebox as it seemed to allow for a cleaner mixture.

Im also considering trying a different "nozzle" like more of a showerhead kinda deal instead of the straight down one.

Then again...51hp aint a bad gain
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RAC4IT


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Bergie
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posted July 05, 2002 10:49 PM        
How did you wire your kit? Using the starter button? Any tips on wiring I would appreciate. I'm going to try and tackle the wiring tomorrow, I got bored so I installed my lockup instead of wiring. 51hp I guess that was a #34 jet? Did you do anything to the PC3 to add fuel? I'm just wondering if I should go in and edit the map to add more fuel but don't know what #s to input to richen it properly?


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Zhooligan


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posted July 05, 2002 10:54 PM        
Good info guys. NOS is the next step for me this winter on my 1361. My question on where you tapped into the air box, can you put a nut on the inside of the box to reinforce your attachment?
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Your Car Is Slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted July 06, 2002 06:30 AM        
Ok..where to start

You should have gotten a 6pole switch..you only need 4.

I spliced into the Horn ground in the harness on the left hand side of the bike. It is the black/white stripe wire inside the black wiring wrap tube next to your left knee when riding.

Cut it...splice in a line..and run that back to 2 of the poles of the 6pole switch. Then just tap into any "Key on" power source with the solenoid. I tapped into my brake light red wire.

With the switch you can now flip it one way..and the horn functions normally..flip it the other way..and it fires the solenoid.

As for the PC3 fuel...before I decided to start playing with the map itself...I added 5 or 6 full bars at "HIGH" on the faceplate manually.

Currently Im adding 30 - 40% more fuel from 6500 rpm at WOT all the way to 12,200 rpm.

This causes some LOVELY flame shows when im doing rollons off the spray and let off....but according to my AF mixture on the dyno..its working just fine

I can send you my map if you like.
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RAC4IT


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Bergie
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posted July 06, 2002 12:37 PM        
I already have my airshifter wired to the horn so I was hoping for some advice on using the starter button.

Can you post how to add the bars using the faceplace on the PC3R? I don't remember how to do it, something about holding two buttons down at the same time or something?

Or even better if I edit the map manually what should I be entering (numerically) in the 100% cells from 6000rpm up to add the correct amount of fuel?

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Your Car Is Slow


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posted July 06, 2002 01:33 PM        
Using the starter would be the same process...just with a different wire. I dunno what the starter ground would be on that side of the bike.

If you want to use the faceplate...basically you have to hold down all 3 buttons...~press firmly~ then turn on the key. You should be in "Edit" mode. Basically click the "High" range and you select that section of RPM range. To move the bars up...either hold down the High range button...or the mid...I honestly cannot remember. Basically the first button you push selects the range "high med low" you want to edit..then pressing another adjusts the fuel mixture richer....holding the high button down will cause the bar to go lower.

It might be easier to read better instructions on the power commander site...they have pictures describing how to do this

I think each bar you add on the faceplate is 2% increase/decrease in fuel.

If you edit it using a laptop..depending on what map you currently have...you just want to edit the cells on the 100% throttle position...from 6k or so on up RPM wise.

Each number..positive or negative represents a % of fuel delivery. If you put in a 5..it will increase fuel deliver 5% during that cell. as I said before...I think i start at 30% at 6k - 7500....35% from 7500 - 9500...and 40% from 9500 to 12,200.
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RAC4IT


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Bergie
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posted July 06, 2002 01:45 PM        
Okay sounds good, thanks for the advice. The only thing that doesn't add up is that if using the faceplate maxes out at 10% (the highest bar being = to adding 10% more fuel) then why are you adding 30~40% using the map? Did yours come out lean on the a/f monitor so you added more?

In the instructions they say to max out the high rpm bar on the faceplate. Would that be the same as inputing or added the number "10" to my existing 100% table in the map?

Sorry to keep asking stoooopid questions I may be over analyzing shit as usual.

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Your Car Is Slow


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posted July 06, 2002 02:27 PM        
Its cool

Yes...the faceplate can only compensate for 10 or so % additional fuel..hence the reason I went into the map itself to increase it more.

I never had the bike dynoed with just the bars modified..however from looking at my dyno chart that I did with the map modified in the way I mentioned...it was still alittle lean in some areas.

I posted the dyno map here somewhere...but you can see it at

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/yourcarisslow/images/ZX12N20.jpg

I dont have the map on this computer..otherwise id post the WOT column for you to see to compare it too.

I never had any problems just using the faceplate...but given the results of the dyno chart adding 30+ % fuel...I have no doubt that I would have eventually fried some rings or worse :/
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RAC4IT


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Bergie
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posted July 07, 2002 10:05 AM        
If you have the numbers from that map and could post them soon I would appreciate it. I'm not going to have time to test my nitrous until the weekend after next anyway because I'm off to NYC for a business trip tomorrow morning. If any of you live in the New York City area let me know we could hook up I will be there from the 8th ~ 19th.

So you recommend I step up to 20~30's in WOT/100% table from 6000rpm up?

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Your Car Is Slow


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posted July 07, 2002 10:17 AM        
Ill post it when i get to work tomorrow.
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Zhooligan


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posted July 07, 2002 02:35 PM        
So does the NOS spray occur on the fresh air side of the filters? Thereby the NOS is then filtered prior to entering the air box? Or am I reading the picture incorrectly?
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Your Car Is Slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted July 07, 2002 05:25 PM        
Sprayed before the filters..that is correct.

I dont think the Nitrous Oxide molecules are so large as to get caught in the filters

K&Ns are good..but they arent that frikkin good
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RAC4IT


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Bergie
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posted July 09, 2002 05:27 AM        
Yes, filtered nitrous

Per the instructions and also for even airbox distribution the nozzle is installed before the filters. The nitrous passes through the filters with no problem.

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your car is slow


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posted July 09, 2002 05:46 AM        
Here is the 100 column

0 <500
0
0
-20
0
19
10
15
15
15
0
0
10
27
27
27
27
27
28
28
28
28
35
35
35 < 12500
0

Just an FYI...this runs VERY rich when not on the juice...makes for a lovely popping flameshow when letting off the gas at high RPMs
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rman


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posted July 09, 2002 08:14 AM        
what is going to happen when a silinoid sticks, the air box and frame fill up with nitrous and becomes a bomb. how will you shut it off?

you would be better off putting the nozzles between the butterflys and intake valves

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your car is slow


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posted July 09, 2002 09:50 AM        
So what happens if a large bus pulls out in front of me and I cannot stop in time.

Guess I should park the bike in the garage and not ride it

Ive never in my life had or even heard of a solenoid sticking open...closed yes..but not open.

Id probably just shut the bike off and let the bottle run out if it did happen in any case.
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zxlnt


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posted July 09, 2002 11:59 AM        
quote:
what is going to happen when a silinoid sticks, the air box and frame fill up with nitrous and becomes a bomb. how will you shut it off?

you would be better off putting the nozzles between the butterflys and intake valves





Its probably safer in the airbox where there is NO fuel to mix with the nitrous, than behind the behind the butterflys where there IS fuel to mix with it.



What if, shoulda coulda woulda.


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moonzx12


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posted July 09, 2002 12:38 PM        Edited By: moonzx12 on 9 Jul 2002 18:59
i hooked my n2o to my starter button. if i remeber right it is a pos. feed i use it to power the solenoid and a msd window switch to ground it using a relay

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moonzx12


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posted July 09, 2002 06:01 PM        
is this a good spot for my nozzle
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zxlnt


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Kawpuke Extraordinare
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posted July 09, 2002 06:03 PM        
Looks good to me. Mine is a little farther foward and seems to work fine.
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RAC4IT


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Bergie
Posts: 3009
posted July 09, 2002 08:03 PM        
http://www.muzzys.com/ZX-12_NITROUS/index.html

Guess you saw this shit! Ryan was telling me about this the day he rode my bike that he was testing it and that it COULD make upwards of 300hp on a good set of pistons.



too bad I just bought the dry setup... damn damn damn.... he said it would be at least Fall before they released it but I guess it's done early!


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Your Car Is Slow


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posted July 09, 2002 08:12 PM        
1200+ dollars vs 350 bucks....heh...Im happy with my kit
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hott-rodd


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posted July 10, 2002 08:42 AM        
moon, can you post a wiring diagram on how you wired the starter button? Does it still have a master switch in addition to the window switch? Thanks
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