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posted June 14, 2005 09:54 AM
Bringing up oil pressure again
So we all recall a few weeks back the oil pressure thread....about how the 12R was measured at something stupid low at idle (single digit psi etc).
After toying with the masterlube over the weekend at MIR....I noticed that at only 2500RPM...the masterlube was reading nearly 45psi.
Now im not going to say the gauge on that little bottle is the most accurate in the world....but im having a hard time believing the oil pressure rises from 10psi at idle...to 45psi at 2500rpm.
Perhaps I got a monday motor?
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entropy
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posted June 14, 2005 11:54 AM
 Edited By: entropy on 14 Jun 2005 12:54
YCIS;
OEM spec is 22psi?? at 4000rpm when the oil is fully up to temp.
Mine reads more or less 40-45psi at 2500 when the oil is cold, but settles down to spec when hot.
Interestingly, I get higher pressure (when hot) with Mobil 1 than Castrol 10W30
BTW;
would you be so kind as to explain how the masterlube works??
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posted June 14, 2005 12:15 PM
From my understanding (and granted...im not an expert)..but its basically just a pressurized container with a spring/plunger and checkball in it. Has an on/off valve to contain the oil in the tank.
Basically you start the motor...let it get warm...open the valve...and oil should rush into the masterlube to pressurize it to whatever level (then refill the bike to maintain the proper crankcase level).
Close the valve before you shut the bike off to maintain that pressure in the accumulator.
So as you start the bike and go to the line..reach back and open the valve...which now makes another 2quarts of oil under X pressure available to the oil system. On launch..if the pickup goes dry and you start dropping pressure...the contents of the masterlube should be used to always ensure a steady supply of oil to the motor....it should equalize back to normal once your run ends (back to 2500rpm or whatever)...and just have to remember to shut off the valve so all the oil doesnt leave the accumulator and end up in the pan.
Thats the 2cent version...im sure doug or mike could give you a better one incase my shit is too dumbed down 
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your car is slow
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posted June 14, 2005 12:23 PM
Edited By: your car is slow on 14 Jun 2005 13:23
although reading the site..it appears it should have some sort of electronic valve or switch....this sure didnt come with my setup..all I have is a mechanical valve open/close gimmick.
Also..what is the max oil pressure the engine produces? 50? anyone seen higher?
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osti33
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posted June 14, 2005 12:39 PM
Edited By: osti33 on 14 Jun 2005 13:40
quote:
Also..what is the max oil pressure the engine produces? 50? anyone seen higher?
I think in the higher RPM's it can get up to 60-80psi before it starts to flow over the relief valve.(again, I think)
Can someone back me up on this?
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entropy
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posted June 14, 2005 12:51 PM
Edited By: entropy on 14 Jun 2005 13:51
when the motor is fully warmed up with an unshimmed relief valve i got 82-84psi at about 10.500 and up running castrol 10w30 on the dyno.
I just got off the phone with Doug of FABULOUS SPENCER CYCLE (unsolicited plug  ) and he mentioned in passing that he got about 110psi max with a shimmed relief valve (but he is not necessarily recommending the shim).
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posted June 14, 2005 12:55 PM
I guess my biggest fear with this doohickey...is setting the oil pressure in the system to too low...and it just filling up the accumulator with oil under max load..and emptying the sump).....vs not filling it up to a HUGE high pressure like it says in the instructions (max engine oil pressure)....and then having it just unload all that oil into the crankcase while im preparing to launch.
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psycho1122
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posted June 15, 2005 07:33 AM
Edited By: psycho1122 on 15 Jun 2005 08:34
I have a XRP Glycerin filled Oil Guage (Running a Dash 4 line) mounted in the windscreen area and have seen oil pressure run up to 80-85 psi at "pop-off". This occurs around 8,000-8,500 rpm.
This is with the engine fully warmed and running down the road. I use Mobil 1 15w50 oil.
I also see 35-40 psi at 4,000-4,500 rpm warmed.
Note: on a HOT!! day out here in Arizona, I can see overall pressures drop 5 psi when running for an extended period of time.
The "dash 4" line has the same inside diameter as the output of the fitting on the main oil galley. This allows the gauge to quickly sense small changes in pressure. 
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your car is slow
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posted June 15, 2005 08:39 AM
K..after looking at the acum system inline with the oil system....even if the pan runs dry...the motor still receives oil (as the acumulator sits before all that good stuff)...so the only fear there...is the oil pump running dry...which probably isnt a good idea either :/
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spencercyclecom
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posted June 15, 2005 11:28 AM
a smaller line will show pressure reduction/increases more accurate. try 1/8 line.....-4 is a little to big....by the time you see a problem...it is all l over with.
a -4 lin is the size of a n20 hose.
Also YCIS...
make sure you "overfill" the oil level......run plenty oil in the sump and you will not pump the pan dry......aint no way.
On our dyno....i have noted that the oil pressur egoes to around 90-95psi at redline in 6th gear.......
Our problem are not wiht the top rpm oiling...but making sure you have good low rpm oil pressure..... not much we can do...except run goofd clean oil all the time and never let it breakdown to much(oil that is)
I just pulled the caes apart on my turbo just to check everything out...after 30 pulls/passes on the dyno and strip.... and everything is A OKAY...looks like i just put the bearing s in. Take note that 24 were dyno pulss with around 6 of them over 530hp plus and 5 of them at over 550hp plus..... I was pleased to see no scaring or scuffing.....so now it is off to the track to beat up on this thing..... it will blow before I pull it back down..or when i have 60-70 at full HP on it passes on it.
BTW ...I run around 6 qts in the engine...i do have a modified oil pan.....like Coby Adams makes.
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your car is slow
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posted June 15, 2005 10:20 PM
I was always afraid to test oil pressure and shit on the dyno..as there are no "launch" forces acting on the pan/pickup/pump/accumulator to simulate conditions that would be conducive to low oil pressure.
Got the boost issue sorted out today....hope to go to jax tomorrow!
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ninja12
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posted June 16, 2005 12:11 AM
Edited By: ninja12 on 16 Jun 2005 01:11
quote:
BTW ...I run around 6 qts in the engine...i do have a modified oil pan.....like Coby Adams makes.
Stock pan holds 3.5 and you added 2.5 quarts to a cut pan?
pic ? price?
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entropy
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posted June 16, 2005 05:51 AM
i got a Coby pan a mo ago; cost $300-$350 (don't remember exactly), had to send a "core" pan as part of the deal. Haven't put it on yet, was waiting for my Brock SW. By the look of the Coby pan it could certainly hold 2+qts more oil.
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spencercyclecom
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posted June 16, 2005 05:55 AM
i knew that would screw some people up.... we run that much oil to KEEP the starvation down to a min..... and on the dyno...you are testing to make sure the oil pressur is constant..ect ect....on the track your datalogger will log what actually happens under accel and decelaration......
6 qt in the crankcase and 1qt in the accumulator....7qts total.
The Coby pan is wider..ect..ect
trust me this is what we do that makes these engines live
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Thanks
Doug Ray
SpencerCycle.com
SpencerCycle Center Inc.
Spencer Performance Group Inc.
Toll Free 1-800-510-1945 ext #10
International 1-800-510-1945 ext #11
Local/Tech 1-704-642-0987 ext #12
Fax 1-704-642-0987
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your car is slow
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posted June 16, 2005 09:30 AM
Yeh..Im pretty sure ive got nearly 7 or 8 qts total in the system at the moment...flattening out that pan with no pipe really adds quite a bit of capacity.
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psycho1122
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posted June 16, 2005 06:02 PM
I beg to differ with you Doug on the oil line dia. issue........
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Speedfab
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posted June 16, 2005 06:24 PM
Pshaaaaa... oil pressure is overrated. Getcha some of that Slick 50 stuff and you can drain the pan and run. Don't you watch infomercials???
And Psycho you are very much correct, guage reaction is faster when using a larger diameter line (to a point) for the pressure feed, especially in high viscosity fluid applications like oil pressure. I used to question this until I ran 2 identical gauges side by side being fed by different size line from an engine on the dyno, the difference is surprising.
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psycho1122
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posted June 16, 2005 06:37 PM
YEP!
I matched the inside DIA. of the main oil galley output at the KHI sender to minimize any false readings.
ALSO, the tip came from a Very Reputable resource of ours here on the board!!
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ra12r
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posted June 18, 2005 07:18 AM
The oil pan being refered to here is only for sidewinder pipes......?!
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your car is slow
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posted June 18, 2005 09:34 AM
Or Turbo Dump pipes.
It fills in that gap where the exhaust normally routes by the oil pan.
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