draggsxr1000
Expert Class
Posts: 190
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posted January 08, 2005 01:13 PM
porting and polishing
Any suggestions on porting and polishing intake and exhaust. Can i gain anything from this. I have to change valve springs anyways. So i figured i would buy one of those port kits and go at it. Johnny cheese any suggestions. Or pics ya wanna share. Thanks
  
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draggsxr1000
Expert Class
Posts: 190
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posted January 08, 2005 01:13 PM
Also how much of a gain are we talking about here.
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted January 08, 2005 01:33 PM
Polishing the ports on the intake side is probably not wise. At the very least I would port match the intake rubbers to each individual port (and then number them) and possibly grind off any casting flash and rough parting lines. I have personally also done the mototune method (mototuneusa.com) on one of my 1270 CC 12R's and am happy with the results. Without the science and testing to back it up, porting blindly is probably not a great idea. A mild cleanup can't hurt, but as far as gains.......maybe 2-3hp max. Using the mototune method, the claims are 10% gain.....but I cannot confirm or deny it. Someday I will take the time to baseline run a bike, tune for optimal numbers and then pull the head and port it with the mototune method. Then put it all back together, and tune again for optimal numbers.... with no other changes. All of this work so that I know whether it works or not.....all I need is a dyno.....
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johnnycheese
Pro
Posts: 1008
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posted January 08, 2005 02:45 PM
do not port if you do not know what you are doing
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Builder and tuner of some of the fastest N.A. and P/A Hayabusas and ZX12 /14 in Texas
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted January 08, 2005 03:51 PM
quote:
.....all I need is a dyno.....
where are you located???
lots o folks are interested in moto's exhaust port mod.
could you tap a bit about what you did (even if you don't have dyno results)
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted January 08, 2005 05:34 PM
Entropy:
I'm in Edmonton.
Here are the steps I followed to get the head ported:
1) Disassemble head completely (I used baggies to store the valve, spring, keepers, etc, labeled each valve (separating intake from exhaust) from 1 through 8 and labeled the head as well)
2) Clean up the casting parting lines and remove casting flash
3) With a coarse Aluminium die grinder burr I chopped some gouges in the port floor.
4) clean the head thoroughly....a dishwasher works well if you don't get busted by the woman of the house
5) install plastercine (I think that what it's called) into the valve seat area to seal the ports off.
6) level the head so that the future port floor is level.
7) using one set of tubes of JB weld per cylinder, mix it up and install it to the port using a small screw driver to force it into the gouges you chopped in earlier. Fill the port with the entire content of the tubes (you will almost close off the port)
8) allow to dry/cure for 24/48 hours
9) remove the plastercine (I used play dough because I couldn't find plastercine and it is a big mistake to do that )
10) clean up the area above the seat carefully (do NOT hit the seat with anything)
11) working through the Throttle Body side of the port , begin to form the D shaped port (the roof of the port forms the Dome of the D) using a die grinder and cartridge rolls. The eventual desired height is 65% of the intake valve diameter. Using a outside caliper (the old style ones) get the height to about 50% of the valve diameter, and then begin to shape the radius above the valve seat. Once the radius is done you can finish the height of the port to 65% and then clean everything up.
12) Port match the intake rubbers and finish clean up the ports. DO NOT make them smooth (polished). Keep in mind that the whole point of this porting method is to create a high QUALITY flow, not high QUANTITY flow.
13) wash the head again
14) reassemble (check the valve lash)and reinstall.
15) enjoy.
Apparently, this porting method works best when the mill is run a little more lean than normal (don't ask me why). This is why it would be so nice to have the time to map the engine for peak power and torque from 0 to 100% throttle and idle to max rpm; since the same map as before should be totally out to lunch. I did not have the time to tune like that. I also wonder how cam timing would change things for this porting method. Someday I will have a dyno and will eliminate all of the variables and find out conclusively if this method really works for me.....Come on Lottery!!!!!
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draggsxr1000
Expert Class
Posts: 190
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posted January 08, 2005 07:05 PM
johnny how much for a mild port job. and what kinda power
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Johnnycheese
Pro
Posts: 1008
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posted January 08, 2005 09:15 PM
I don't port I let a 5 axies machine do it
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Builder and tuner of some of the fastest N.A. and P/A Hayabusas and ZX12 /14 in Texas
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
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posted January 08, 2005 09:51 PM
Some porters leave you room to grow in displacement.... so you may actually lose mph if you "open" the head up too much.
Mostly on a stock motor, deburring casting flaws and port matching is the most thats needed. You really oughta have a "plan" on how far you wanna go with the motor.
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spencercyclecom
Zone Head
Posts: 535
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posted January 09, 2005 09:09 PM
We charge $650.00 to port heads.... this is our street/strip job..NOT a race port job.
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SpencerCycle.com
SpencerCycle Center Inc.
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ZXLNT
Needs a job
Kawpuke Extraordinare
Posts: 2853
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posted January 09, 2005 09:49 PM
quote:
Some porters leave you room to grow in displacement.... so you may actually lose mph if you "open" the head up too much.
Mostly on a stock motor, deburring casting flaws and port matching is the most thats needed. You really oughta have a "plan" on how far you wanna go with the motor.
And thats all that was done on my head. Basic cleanup, port match and flush the valveguides...
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