phantom
Parking Attendant
Posts: 8
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posted May 13, 2003 12:40 AM
ride height?
How do you adjust ride height on a 00 model 12?
  
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tuusinii
Pro
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posted May 13, 2003 02:56 AM
You have to loosen the top nut of the shock and put a shim between the frame and shock.to make it higher. Look for a thread named fork oil change -complete with photos to know what I'm saying. I just installed a shim to my bike.
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Zhooligan
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posted May 13, 2003 03:17 PM
You can either creat a U type shim and merely loosen the shock mount and slip the u washer(s) in it or drop the mount and install washers between the frame and the mount. I would look at raising the tail between 4 to 8mm to start. You will be suprised at the difference. And at the same time if you have not done so drop the nose 5 mm by sliding the fork tubes up in the triple clamps.
For the ecord Kawi sells the shims for a ton of money as I recall. You can by washers for penneies.
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phantom
Parking Attendant
Posts: 8
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posted May 13, 2003 04:14 PM
when you say raise by 4-8mm, is the shim/washer to be 4-8mm thick?
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eastbaydave
Needs a job
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posted May 13, 2003 04:27 PM
 Edited By: eastbaydave on 13 May 2003 17:28
For those of us who are....ahem...."gravitationally challenged," dropping the front will case the fairing to drag in the twisties...
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Enjoy the ride!
02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
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phantom
Parking Attendant
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posted May 13, 2003 04:51 PM
can this be done with the bike sitting on it's side stand?
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Zhooligan
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posted May 13, 2003 05:08 PM
Edited By: Zhooligan on 14 May 2003 14:07
Droppin the nose 5 mm should not cause gravitational issues if the bike is properly sprung, pre-load set etc provide proper sag. I weigh 255 to 260 so I probably provide a much of a challenge as any! Since having my forks done by Race Tech I have had zero problems with clearance. And I have worn out more then a set or two of knee pucks on the road race track on it. Personally my front forks have been moved up 8 mm. With the monstor snorkel installed and a incredibly bad 150 mile an hour wheelie landing I did crack the carbon fiber front fender. I also limped for a couple of weeks! Thank goodness I did not crash.
I would suggest you look for a way to stabilize your bike. I would avoid trying to shim it on the side stand. A simple way to do this is if you have a truck or trailer that you transport with, use some soft ties and tie downs to secure the bikes front end. Soft ties on the grips work fine and cinch it down with the tie downs. Then use a floor jack and a block of wood to lift on the oil pan enough to take the load off of the rear end. then go for it. This is a relatively easy job just takes a little bit of time and patience. The to 4 mm to 8 mm can be a single thickness or a stack of washers.
Remember a little bit in regards to raising the rear or dropping the nose goes a long ways. Don't get caught up with the heck that ain't much syndrome.
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EastBayDave
Needs a job
Posts: 2245
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posted May 13, 2003 06:32 PM
quote:
also limped for a couple of weeks!
eeeeooouuucccchhhh! :o
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Enjoy the ride!
02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
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GOZR
Zone Head
GOZR
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posted May 13, 2003 06:43 PM
My shims are 13 mn and i tryed many like 12,10,8,5,3mn but what gived me the most confortability with the bike and handeling was the 13mn.
Just make sure you place your balls corectly for the ride. 
I didn't touch the front yet but i'm envisaging 5mn down .
I'm 165 lbs.
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-G
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Zhooligan
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posted May 13, 2003 07:05 PM
!3 in the back with 5 in front means steering damper big time. And be prepared for a tank slapper. OK if you are familiar with them, not good for those unprepared!
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GOZR
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posted May 13, 2003 10:45 PM
Edited By: GOZR on 13 May 2003 23:46
The 13 on rear with out moving the forks for now is perfect ( to me )
My suspension is very stiff as i like it but they need to be rebuilt.
No tank slap for now actualy much better than stock( scary ). And i rode many bumpy surprised roads. i Could Slides in every ways .. didn't tank slap at all.
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-G
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frEEk
Administrator
ummm... yeah
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posted May 14, 2003 01:00 AM
quote:
Droppin the nose 55 mm should not cause gravitational issues if the bike is properly sprung, pre-load set etc provide proper sag.
i'v heard similar comments before & it makes me wonder if something is (well before i crashed) fucked up. i only weight about 175 fully suited, and with the front preload fully cranked down & compression most of the way in too, and stock ride height, i still drag the shit out of the fairings. & i'v never rouched a knee down. my only guess is it's thanks to the rough roads we ride. thoughts?
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02blkgold12
Parking Attendant
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posted May 22, 2003 07:12 PM
The stock shim kit from Kawasaki, part # 92026-1586, retails for $169.32, but to me it looks a lot like camber shims out of any Chevy, Caddy, etc which you could pick up at any front end shop in most any thickness you want, or a trip to the local wrecking yard and they happen to fall into your pocket, with a small amount of mods, they can do the exact same thing
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MORE HORSEPOWER EQUALS MORE FUN
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ZHooligan
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posted May 22, 2003 07:33 PM
Washers work just fine. But if you are on the right track as well.
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To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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n da zone
Expert Class
Posts: 215
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posted May 23, 2003 04:35 AM
Edited By: n da zone on 23 May 2003 05:36
quote:
.... Then use a floor jack and a block of wood to lift on the oil pan enough to take the load off of the rear end. then go for it.
You know, I saw a pic of someone supporting their bike (I think it was RedElk) with a floor jack UNDER THE OIL PAN!
Man, this goes against my grain, and I thought I was just not seeing some hidden support or sumthin'.
Are you saying that the pan is strong enough to support the weight of the bike, or are you placing wood blocks around the tranny? Can you really lift the bike that way? 
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GOZR
Zone Head
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posted May 23, 2003 05:49 AM
Just jack it on the frame real close to the swing..
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-G
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Zhooligan
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posted May 23, 2003 07:29 AM
The oil pan will suport it. Or pick it near the wing arm or shock enough to put jack stands under the foot pegs and then let the pegs support it. But the reality is the oil pan other then being shaped funny is plenty stout.
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To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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jonwright
Needs a job
Posts: 2416
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posted May 23, 2003 10:41 AM
I don't think Elk had the jack stands under the oil pan. He put the jack stands at each corner of the oil pan as far out and wide as you can go - mostly on the mounting bolts.
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tuusinii
Pro
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posted May 26, 2003 09:03 AM
About this mod I have to say DO IT!!! Last weekend I at last got first miles with 4mm shim over the shock and the bike handled a lot better. It feeled like it had brand new tires even if the ones under it have couple thousend under them... I really recommend this mod!
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
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posted May 26, 2003 04:36 PM
Or you could simply buy an Ohlins or Penske shock with adjustable ride height..hehe Of course that would run in the neighborhood of $700+
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swft
Needs a life
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posted May 26, 2003 04:51 PM
Yes, but it's a far superior shock. I never regretted upgrading to the Ohlins.
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GOZR
Zone Head
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posted May 26, 2003 06:51 PM
Thinking about it soon! my rear shock is getting soft so every settings turn to the max H
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-G
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ZHooligan
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posted May 26, 2003 08:21 PM
Max rebound? Not a good idea
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To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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GOZR
Zone Head
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posted May 26, 2003 08:35 PM
I know but even at max i feel that the rebound is to fast ..
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-G
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ZHooligan
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posted May 26, 2003 09:33 PM
That is likely because you have the preload turned up so your suspension is packing and the travel is now so short that you are experiencing the pogo effect.
____________
To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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