deathpulse
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posted February 28, 2003 04:14 PM
Off topic - Bike Restore Questions!
OK, here is a post for the mechanics/techies:
I am about to begin restoration of my 1980 Honda (GASP - I know, its a HONDA, but my '12 sits right next to her) CB-750F SuperSport. She's been unused for about 7 years (sitting in a shed). I think the project will take a while - I know she needs at least new tires, new cables, new battery, new chain, new brakes. Here are a few questions though:
1. She hasn't been started in a LOOONG time. How can I get rid of potentially varnished gas in the tank, carbs and engine?
2. Anyone know where to get new 1980 Honda CB-750 fasteners (screws/bolts etc)? Some a kind of rusty - be nice to clean em up.
3. What start up proceedure should I use for the engine? I mean, JEEZ the oils been in there for QUITE a while and I'm sure the gas has varnished by now - how can I "gently" bring her back to life?
Thanks guys - if anyone is interested, I can post project pix (if I can figure out how to post digicam pix...)
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Phil
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posted March 01, 2003 03:44 PM
I'd check with your favorite Honda shop first for any parts or fastners if you want to keep it more or less showroom stock. You'd be suprised at whats still available for these older bikes and Honda is about the best when it comes to having parts although they certainly know how to charge for them. By the way my 12 sits next to a 5000 mile 79 red (there's that faster color again) CBX. The X will be there when the 12 is long gone. You might want to check out Eastwood's for gas tank cleaners, I think they have some stuff thats pretty nasty so watch that paint. For sure the carbs will need rebuilding, they should be taken apart on the bench and cleaned properly. Good luck and yea lets see pics.
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aliveagain
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posted March 01, 2003 04:15 PM
try lacuer thinner, not paint thinner
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Wildman
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posted March 01, 2003 05:20 PM
For the carbs, if they are really bad, there is nothing better than the dip! (brrwweeee Eddie!)
ummm, anyway, Make damnded sure that you get absolutely every piece of rubber and plastic out of them before you place them in. Directions call for a little while or an hour... bullshit. 24 hours is better, but keep an eye on them. The stuff will eventually etch the metal, I saw a carb that sat in the dip for a week and it looked a little funny. But it was freakin clean, and it still worked fine.
And you will be surprised what you can get for old Hondas. I got full carb kits for a 69 CB350 about 4 years ago.
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Wildman
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posted March 01, 2003 05:26 PM
Go ahead and change the oil and filter before you start it. Pull the spark plugs and spray oil in the cylinders, then turn it over a bit.
After you fix the carbs and whatever was wrong in the first place that got it parked, run it for a little while and change the oil and filter again.
Laquer thinner will get the funkies out of the tank, but if there is rust, you need Kreem. Get it at most good bike shops.
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deathpulse
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posted March 01, 2003 10:08 PM
COOL! great suggestions, thanks guys. She got "parked" for 3 reasons...
1. The voltage regulator went bad (about 80 bucks at JC Whitney)
2. I sheared a bolt on the front of the engine - I think it supposed to be some kind of bolt that allows you to tension a valve chain or something... I'm basically not going to worry about it 
3. I GOT A 1992 ZX-11C - that about says it all.
- I miss my ol beater though!!!
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deathpulse
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posted March 01, 2003 10:40 PM
OH - almost forgot, do you guys have any links for the cleaner that you are talking about?? (and the exact stuff). Thanks guys, this may be a spring into summer project. I've never re-built carbs before, and I hear its REALLY challenging for your first time. I think I'll just take it slow and be carefull. I wonder if any companys are still producing "After market" carbs for the 1980 CB-750f? Maybe I should just get a "performance" set??
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Zhooligan
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posted March 01, 2003 11:15 PM
My main advice is be absolutely mindful and careful of all of the rubber seals, o-rings and or gaskets. Solvents will screw them up and you may find it a mother replace them. The biggest mistake I see is guys throwing things in the solvent tank only to find all of the seals and o-rings swelled up to big, deformed or just plain melted.
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Wildman
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posted March 02, 2003 05:50 AM
The stuff is Carburetor dip, find it at an auto parts store in a gallon can. (looks like a can of house paint)
Automotive carburetors can be very complicated with lots of little parts and balls and springs and levers and plungers, etc... Motorcycle carburetors, otoh, are usually pretty simple. There is little that ever goes wrong with a motorcycle carb. Generally, if they are clean and no one has messed with the adjustments, they work.
Beware: I said get *all* the rubber and plastic out of the carb before it goes in the dip. I meant *ALL* of it. Anything that is not metal will be completely destroyed if you fuck up and put it in there. Every gasket, o-ring, diaphragm, etc. Pull out every screw, some of them have o-rings attached. Count how many turns out from fully seated those are before you remove them.
Make damn sure you get the idle mixture (or idle air mixture as the case may be) screws out! Sometimes the manufacturers put a plug over these so that you can't see them and won't mess with them. If you can't find these, don't put the carbs in dip. Go crazy with the gumout, it isn't nearly as good and if you have small clogged passages it won't help much, but it won't eat the o-rings on the idle screws either.
Get a manual, I prefer the factory service manuals although they aren't cheap.
Have fun
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rs
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Posts: 137
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posted March 02, 2003 07:20 AM
Check out this link for detailed instructions on motorcycle carb cleaning:
http://users.rcn.com/kochc/moto/carb/carb.html
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