RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted February 26, 2003 11:15 PM
Schnitz EFIR-12 Install
Schnitz Racing EFIR-12 Timing Retard Module
Schnitz Racing Product Catalog Link
http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=1714003
What is it?
The EFIR-12 allows the user to retard the ignition timing on the ZX-12R, all model years. Primary use is to pull a specified amount of timing out on demand when using nitrous or boost applications, rather than having to custom map out timing.
This is useful so that you can set advanced timing using a PC3R or mechanical advance for optimal engine performance when naturally aspirated, and pull some timing out only when spraying or as needed.
Despite the description on the Schnitz website this unit does NOT plug directly into the factory wiring harness. It will require replacing the existing connectors (Schnitz supplies some) or soldering the wiring directly in line.
The device is 12 volt activated. It is designed to connect right up to your nitrous solenoids or a pressure switch on your turbo bike, and retard the timing to save your engine. The amount of timing retard is programmable using dipswitches from 0-16 degrees of timing retard, and also has dipswitches to adjust the built time from .1 to 3 seconds.
When the device receives a +12V signal it activates the specified amount of retard. Note there is -1 degree of timing built in to the module so even when set at "zero" the device is pulling -1 degree.
The unit lists for $274.95 directly from Schnitz Racing.
Install Photos
http://www.dontbescaredracing.com/photos/efir12/
Configuring the EFIR-12
Four screws secure the faceplate, removing the faceplate reveals the dipswitches for setting both timing retard (in degrees) and time delay ramp (in seconds). There is also a "hold and resume" or "reset always" switch that does exactly what you assume, it either holds and resumes the retard from where it left off or will start over and reset the time and timing ramp from zero should you lift off the button (or activation) momentarily. In our dry nitrous application "always reset" will be used since we are not ramping up the timing retard over time, we just want to pull out a certain amount whenever nitrous is activated.
The box is clearly labeled with the instructions on the inside of the cover which ensures you'll always be able to make quick changes at the track.
We choose to set -4 degrees for use with our 40hp dry nitrous kit. Because we run +3 degrees of advance for optimal power naturally aspirated, this setting will yield a total of -1 degree timing which is safe for our current jetting.
Although the EFIR-12 looks fairly weather resistant, but I would recommend mounting it in a safe place to prevent any possible water damage.
We chose to mount ours in the tailsection on the rear fender next to our Schnitz DCS-101 Progressive Nitrous Controller. Any location in the tailsection should work fine. The EFIR-12 comes with mounting hardware but we used velcro, doublesided tape would also work but velcro allows easy movement of the box whenever necessary.
Installation
Disconnect the OEM crank trigger / ignition pickup at the plug near the clutch cover. The factory connector is not compatible with the EFIR-12, so as mentioned it will need to be replaced or removed. The wiring may be tucked up out of sight, just give it a tug until you see the factor connector and unplug it. The crank trigger side will have two wires- yellow, and black. The ECU wiring side coming from under the battery area will have two wires- a brown with a red stripe, and a yellow with a black stripe.
We decided to patch our EFIR12 directly in, without using any plug-in style connectors. Since the factory stuff didn't fit, I feel more comfortable with soldering the connections securely. After all this is our ignition timing source! Schnitz did include some decent replacement connectors, but they are difficult to assemble and we didn't bother, soldering them will also reduce installation time.
After snipping off the factory connector, lift the fueltank and disconnect the CENTER computer wiring harness (this is also where your powercommander would patch in... for those who have PC3Rs) and pull the factory harness (a brown with a red stripe, and a yellow with a black stripe) back through so you will have more room to work with as shown in this photo:
Once you have pulled the connector thru, plug the wiring harnesses back together as they were. If you have a PC3R, go ahead and re-route the Y-patch connectors in a suitable fashon so that everything is nice and tidy as shown here:
Go ahead and route the factory ECU ignition pickup wires under the frame, following the factory harness just like your PC3R. You should end up with something as shown:
You can also take the time to re-route any PC3R wiring if necessary. There is a small recess in the fender for such routing.
The EFIR-12 splices into the factory wiring. There are two pairs of wires on the EFIR-12, one set is green and blue, the other set is green and white.
At this point we are wiring to the oem harness, so our green and white pair from the EFIR-12 will be soldered to the brown w/red stripe and yellow w/black stripe pair. The EFIR-12 green wire will be soldered to the factory brown w/red stripe wire, and EFIR-12 white solders to the factory yellow w/black stripe, as shown here:
Be sure to use quality solder and heatshrink tubing. If you're going to use the Schnitz supplied connectors, be sure to take your time and assemble them properly!
Now that the first connection is patched in, go ahead and route the other wires (green and blue coming from the EFIR-12) along the original route and cover with wiring loom.
When routing the green and blue wires, take your time and follow the original path under the factory plug-in harnesses back up under the battery tray and out near the clutch cover. Also be sure to cover the wiring in loom for protection from the elements as shown here:
You may end up with some extra slack in the wiring, so trim as needed. Now we are going to patch in the EFIR-12 (blue and green) to the factory crank ignition crack trigger pickup (yellow and black).
The EFIR-12 green will be soldered to the yellow wire on the factory pickup. EFIR blue will be soldered to the factory black wire, as shown here:
Now cover in protecting loom and double-check routing
Power and ground for the EFIR-12 is relatively simple. Ground is routed and connected to the rear-brake fluid mounting bolt (also where our PC3R is grounded), and +12V switched is routed through the battery tray access hole in the frame as shown here:
On the battery tray main harness we will pickup +12V SWITCHED power (not contstant) from the yellow w/white stripe wire. This ensures power to the EFIR-12 module whenever the key is ON.
Power when the key is on ONLY is required, a) because the bike will not run without power to the EFIR-12 and b) you do not want to use a constant power otherwise the battery will drain and die.
Using a sharp object such as the tip of a testlight or even a paperclip, you can remove the factory wire from the plug without damaging it, then solder on your new connection as shown, and reconnect.
The final step is to connect our activation wire to the solenoids, or in our case, to the activation signal from our progressive nitrous controller. This yellow wire will activate the timing retard module whenever it receives a +12V signal.
I will post a full product review here and on the website once we have tested the EFIR-12 on the dyno.
Also my next tech session will cover wiring the Schnitz DCS-101 progressive nitrous controller... stay tuned!
  
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fastestr1
Expert Class
Posts: 300
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posted February 26, 2003 11:51 PM
You are the man, that was a great job! I am looking forward to the controller install and I know you well like the set up. I plan on doing getting the same set up next month. Thanks I need the help 
____________
Black 02, 8.99 @ 161.95 motor on NOS
Put one knee down for the curves and both knees down for GOD
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted February 27, 2003 12:17 AM
Bergie,
this post is 110% FABULOUS!
You never cease to amaze me with the time you put in helping others!
Keep it up!
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This moderator uses moderation in moderation
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted February 27, 2003 07:58 AM
Bergie is such a swell guy
Good job there chief!
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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harryzx-12
Needs a job
Posts: 3643
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posted February 27, 2003 01:43 PM
Great post Bergie. This info will be extremely useful to me soon!
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"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways- Body thoroughly used up, totally worn out...Screaming "WOO HOO, What a Ride !!!"
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted February 27, 2003 09:42 PM
Thanks, if it helps someone out cool! Sometimes I think I just do these things to cover up the fact that I'm extremely slow about installing mods on my bike I like take a bolt out, look at it, think about stuff for a while, go inside, eat a sandwich, come back out, take a picture, re-think the whole removing the bolt idea, and generally waste a lot of time...
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fastestr1
Expert Class
Posts: 300
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posted February 27, 2003 10:23 PM
Well the well that install looks you can come to Hawaii stay with me and waste all the time you want too. But just come on 8 march till 8 may because my wife will be out of town
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Black 02, 8.99 @ 161.95 motor on NOS
Put one knee down for the curves and both knees down for GOD
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted February 27, 2003 10:33 PM
 Edited By: RAC4IT on 27 Feb 2003 22:33
Hell yeah! Wish I could afford to come out there! Hey I just sent a coby adams 3~7 adjustable swingarm out to hawaii a couple weeks ago, maybe you'll see it at the track. how many strips can there be on the islands?
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fastestr1
Expert Class
Posts: 300
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posted February 27, 2003 10:38 PM
On the island of oahu (Honolulu) there is just one. Did you send it to mike dacoda? I saw he had one at the last race this passed weekend.
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Black 02, 8.99 @ 161.95 motor on NOS
Put one knee down for the curves and both knees down for GOD
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Zhooligan
Moderator
Post Whore Extraordinaire!
Posts: 3829
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posted February 27, 2003 10:41 PM
Thanks for the info and pictures. Really good info!
____________
To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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blubyu
Expert Class
Posts: 209
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posted March 02, 2003 07:10 AM
Timing retard
Ok question. Suppose I want to use this box because I'm spraying a dry shot and I want to take out some advance. If I had the Yosh box, that's enables you to use multiple maps. Couldn't I just program my box with a "NO2" map that removes the advance that was set in for "optimal" running?. Then I would have the best of both worlds in one box instead of PCIIIR and this new Schnitz box. Am I right on this?
____________
Run whatcha brung
Tow whatcha blow
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fastestr1
Expert Class
Posts: 300
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posted March 02, 2003 07:48 AM
Yes you can, i guess this is for guys or gals that dont have the $650.00 Yosh box with all the bells and whistles.
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Black 02, 8.99 @ 161.95 motor on NOS
Put one knee down for the curves and both knees down for GOD
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted March 02, 2003 08:00 AM
If you trust the Yosh box is actually pulling timing, yes. If it's anything like the PC3R, the timing tables are worthless. Pull 4 degrees on your Yosh box and dyno it before and after, then pull 4 degrees with a mechanical advancer or Schnitz box and you will see it on the dyno and hear the difference in tone.
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Zhooligan
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Post Whore Extraordinaire!
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posted March 02, 2003 08:20 AM
As a guy who has spent $800 plus on the yosh box and the accessories, my advice is listen to Bergie. Yosh gets a couple more weeks of silence and then the gloves are off.
____________
To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted March 02, 2003 09:48 AM
Zooligan,have you tried back to back dynos yet with pulling timing out with your yosh box?
I want to run some bigger pills this year and have a new yosh that i never installed yet.
We already know the pc3r is Very unreliable but wonder if the timing tables on the yosh box will do what there told?
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Zhooligan
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posted March 02, 2003 10:08 AM
Edited By: Zhooligan on 2 Mar 2003 10:16
At this point I can tell you that the system looks very impressive. Very pretty. Cool looking switch, shift light etc. The ignition kill set-up that they advertise with the kit looks really cool on the site and in the advertisement but as of yet 5 months later it still looks good in the cataloge but doesn't exist. As for the system of course the Yosh system is not capatable with tuning link so you get to monkey fuck with it tranfering info back and forth. But that is a given. What isn't a given is that the system doesn't work.
At this point I have all of the accessories except for the ignition kill installed and it doesn't work. Installed three different maps one in each location and guess what nothing changes. It doesn't work. And at this point as I said above I am going to give a Yosh a few days after Daytona to make this situation corect. I know it is a lot to expect that a thousand dollar part should do what it advertised to do. And I guess it should really be expected that a device installed to protect your investment is in fact the device that destroys it. I have been told that some of the Yosh folks pay attention to this board. This subject is about to get very ugly.
____________
To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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blubyu
Expert Class
Posts: 209
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posted March 02, 2003 08:28 PM
Yosh box
Let's see...uh... scratch Yosh box off of shopping list..., PCIIIR burns up ECU when they go out. Is there anyone out there that makes a box that works and stays together?
____________
Run whatcha brung
Tow whatcha blow
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Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted March 02, 2003 09:10 PM
Muzzy ecu but its around $1700 with all the hardware to get running
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Zhooligan
Moderator
Post Whore Extraordinaire!
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posted March 02, 2003 09:19 PM
I would be careful with that suggestion.
____________
To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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