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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: rebuilt engine breakin NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
Megabyte


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Posts: 1047
posted February 15, 2003 11:02 PM        Edited By: Megabyte on 16 Feb 2003 01:10
Rebuilt Engine Breakin

Doing research getting ready to breakin my 1361, and came across the following article that seems to make good sense. What do you think?

RED Image
How to "Break-In" Your Newly Rebuilt Engine

http://www.sacoriver.net/%7Ered/breakin.html
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entropy


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posted February 15, 2003 11:24 PM        
thx for the post. interesting, but i prefer motoman's expln and procedure better.
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Megabyte


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Posts: 1047
posted February 16, 2003 01:03 AM        Edited By: Megabyte on 16 Feb 2003 10:34
quote:
thx for the post. interesting, but i prefer motoman's expln and procedure better.

I read Motoman's procedure carefully. If he's right, then I, along with alot of others, have been doing it wrong. Sure would appreciate some hard data. I have to say Motoman's expln makes since, but then so did the other guys. Who you goin believe?
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slug


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Out in search of my mind...
Posts: 1433
posted February 16, 2003 09:07 AM        
motoman's photographic 'evidence' is crap, and an insult to anyone who actually DOES build engines.

the pistons he pictures are a crock. the [dirty] one that he claims was not broken in with *his* procedure is the only one of the 2 that has been inside a running engine.

the facts are clear, if you break in an engine under load it WILL perform better out of the box. it will be looser and will rev faster. period. it will not have 'zero blowby' as he claims. zero blowby is impossible with a mechanical sliding interface like that.

also, a cold engine WILL experience blowby due to the parts not being perfectly round in respect to each other when cold, the goal is when at normal temperature, the parts ARE round and therefore seal properly due to thermal expansion. this further bolsters the evidence that the rear piston on his page is NOT from a runner. there WILL be deposits on the areas between the rings, due to this fact alone.

also, there WILL be oil between the upper 2 rings, as a perfect oil seal which prevented oil from getting to the top rings, would cause engine to sieze or fail prematurely. there MUST be oil to the top ring, or it will NOT be lubricated, and WILL overheat. this oil will also burn off due to the heat, and leave its mark on the areas between the rings.

fuel burning leaves deposits on pistons and head areas. this is inescapable consequence of burning a fuel. another point against the piston in the back as being from a running engine.



as far as the 20 miles and crosshatching being gone bit, i also beg to differ, the crosshatch pattern was STILL visible after 34000 miles, easily visible. the problem is that nikasil or ceramic liners don't wear as fast as conventional iron bores. or that is not a problem i guess ;P

and it also still worked, the rings indeed seated themselves and oil burning stopped after a few hundred miles of engine reassembly.

i do agree that changing the oil soon after intially running is a good idea, but again for different reasons, the main thingyouw ant to drain out is any leftover debris form engine assembly and initial turnover. the engine parts willcontinue to wear in to each other as time goes on. you have transmissiongears, you have shifting gear you have lots of parts besides the rings and pistons wearing together. a transmission gear can take several thousand miles to wear together properly.

to state that the oem manual break in procedure will ruin an engine, is stupid. i don't know about the kawasaki break in procedures, but the one in my book was pointed about the need for heat and stress cycles. it stated 'avoid full throttle operation above xxxx rpm until xxx miles. but there is/was no prohibition from exceeding those rpm limits as such. thisi s an important point, which basically gives you the same leeway to perform powered runs, without breaking it rightoff.



these are my thoughts on motoman, if i had a dyno to do controlled power runs on, and the time/money to do that for more than 20 minutes, then i would do so. insteadi have to do it on the street, but again experience has shown that i will not ruin my engine by doing that.
also, his use of those photographs as his proof is daft, and is an insult to people who know better as to the mechanics of how internal combustion engines work.

as such, he can piss up a rope.




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