worm~hole
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posted February 04, 2003 04:13 AM
garage floor aficianados
What do you guys recommend for my virgin, never been parked on 3-car garage floor?...costs?...durability?...I have about two weeks before I park my cars, bikes, and Olympic weight-set in it, but I'd like to jazz it up a little as well as protect it...any input would be helpful...thanks 
  
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
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posted February 04, 2003 04:29 AM
I really like this tile. but untill I have a garage, I cant let you know how it works....
kiwitile.com
Mad Mike
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OZZY
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need guberment cheese
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posted February 04, 2003 04:49 AM
What ever you use, be sure that it can be installed over green concrete. Some of the sealers are intended for green cement and help it cure, others require the cment to be cured first. A friend used Thompsons cement sealer , and had lousy results.
Also make darn sure that it is intended to have hot tires parked on it. A hot car tire will discolor many of the cement floor coatings, since they are not recommended for gargage usage.
A nice looking garage floor I saw one time had a powdered dye sifted onto the wet cement during the troweling process. It looked a lot like marble. It was finished with a clear, glossy sealer.
Before you get that garage all filled up with excess junk of consumerism, set aside a spot for Dino and me to park our bikes 
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"It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses......HIT IT!"
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Ninjaman12R
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as a Deal's Gap tour guide.
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posted February 04, 2003 06:05 AM
Check these guys out.....
I've saw their commercial on the Speed Channel. The stuff looks pretty nice,definitely worth a look IMHO.
http://www.musclegloss.com/sitemap.html
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What we're dealin' with here is a complete lack of respect for the law.
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zx12zx11
Expert Class
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posted February 04, 2003 07:14 AM
 Edited By: zx12zx11 on 4 Feb 2003 07:33
I used Muradic Acid to etch the Concrete on my Garage floor. Then one thick coat of primer and two coats of Paint. The Paint was made for Garage floors. It has lasted 5 years. At least where I did not park my car two days after I painted the floor. The paint was not dry and now I have a perfect imprint of the tire of my 85 T bird.
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dougmeyer
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moderated
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posted February 04, 2003 07:21 AM
Pittsburg makes a very good two part epoxy. It is extremely important, whatever you use to completely acid etch the floor properly per the instructions. I used a yellow/ tan "buff" color. It's very bright, cleans up nicely with simple green and is very abrasion resistant. Expect to spend around $500 for a 2.5 car space.
Doug
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fish_antlers
Administrator
The Truth is Out There
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posted February 04, 2003 08:59 AM
I used some grey Phenolic Primer.... sticks to anything... super toxic.. .plus I have a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff and it was free....
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fish_antlers
Administrator
The Truth is Out There
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posted February 04, 2003 08:59 AM
I used some grey Phenolic Primer.... sticks to anything... super toxic.. .plus I have a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff and it was free....
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worm~hole
Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
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posted February 04, 2003 11:56 AM
Edited By: worm~hole on 4 Feb 2003 13:31
...yup...the garage floor is green cement, never sealed, never been parked on (except when muzbegreen and I went to do my walk-thru ...damn Muzzy pipes on our bikes sounded 'just right' )...
...I've been reading about MuscleGloss and UCoat products on the web and wondered if any of you have used these products and could provide some feedback...there's even some stuff that claim to be harder, more durable than these two end-user residential applications...one company wants something like $500 more for its beige/tan color (which would go well with the exterior color of my house...wonder why?)...self-application runs $500~$1000...hired guns run $1500 and up...
...hmmmm...perhaps there's a way to scrape my hard head (undisputedly THE hardest thing known in the universe!) on the floor to effect some molecular transfer...nah...red, black, bone, and tan wouldn't go well...not quite feng shui....
...thanks for the input, guys!...keep 'em coming if you have anymore ideas...
...hey OZZY...hopefully I'll have even more 'garage space' out back as soon as I figure out how to afford building my hobby-shop back there...in the meantime, there'll be room for at least six bikes in one bay
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ZHooligan
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posted February 04, 2003 12:57 PM
Edited By: ZHooligan on 4 Feb 2003 14:40
Hey Worm... green concrete refers to how old it is. It takes a min. of 28 days to actually cure. If you put things on it prior to 28 days after it is poured you run the risk of things not adhering to it.
Epoxy is the best period. The other products work but will require more up keep and applications. At the moment that does not seem like a big deal but when the garage is full of stuff you won't like removing things to redo the floor.
If you are not looking for color but more concerned about easy clean-up there are some really good acrylic sealer available. I would strongly suggest talking to a local concrete accessories supplier in your local area. They will have a good line on sealers and finishes. A sealer is a no brainer to install, put in a pump up spray can like you use in the garden and apply it. The trick is in the prep.
You can was scrub the slab with a mixture of Water and muratic acid. Put about 3 gallons of water in a plastic bucket and then add about a half of gallon of muratic acid. Scrub the slab with a wire brush and the mixture.
Obviously you need to be careful. Use rubber gloves and wear something you don't like and will throw away afterwords! Scrub it and then wash it down thoroughly with a garden hose. Let it dry and apply the sealer. When mixing the water and acid, turn your head and look away as you pour the acid in the bucket. Don't laugh I have seen many many experts get hurt because they didn't listen.
If you don't want to use acid, buy yourself about three or four gallons of vinegar and use it straight. It is a milder acid and works well. We use Vinegar in occupied buildings because the muratic acid will attack stainless steel.
If you do this your surface will be clean of scale and what you put on it will stick.
Talk to local guy about their stuff and I would suggest staying away from the internet on this.
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To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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worm~hole
Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
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posted February 04, 2003 01:02 PM
Edited By: worm~hole on 4 Feb 2003 13:22
..yup..the garage floor (the whole cement slab of the house for that matter) is at least 30~45 days old...it was all poured on the same day...good advice, guys...and thanks!
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ohitstodd
Novice Class
Posts: 73
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posted February 04, 2003 02:34 PM
quote:
What do you guys recommend for my virgin, never been parked on 3-car garage floor?...costs?...durability?...I have about two weeks before I park my cars, bikes, and Olympic weight-set in it, but I'd like to jazz it up a little as well as protect it...any input would be helpful...thanks
I used to have a full gym in my garage. I just used a cheap area rug under all the equipment and built some 'skids' out of 2x10s, some traction tape..think diving board..and strapping to plant my feet when benching. I'd offer you pics. but I moved the whole deal into part of a warehouse I own. It's a very comfortable set-up. I have an olympic bench, pull down machine, squat rack, dip rack a whole set of dumbells, and some other stuff.
If you're interested in a pic. of my 'skids', lemme know. I'll bring my cam to the gym and shoot one of them.
Todd
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Dino
Pro
Posts: 1422
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posted February 04, 2003 10:05 PM
Epoxy is the best IMO....but a lot of reps won't warranty the product unless you have a moisture test done and it has to be dry! Also, floor must be etched to the max.Sometimes muriatic acid won't cut it and you'll have to have it shot blasted.....I don't think you'll be wanting to spend that much though. Oh, btw.......... 
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uh oh
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worm~hole
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Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
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posted February 05, 2003 01:20 AM
...same to you mr. band hair smarty spandex tights...Bahahahahaha!!!!!!
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worm~hole
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Miles to go before I sleep....
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posted February 05, 2003 03:15 AM
Edited By: worm~hole on 5 Feb 2003 03:17
Todd...I'd be interested in seeing your set-up...I'm also curious about your 'skids'...I can't picture it...post here or e-mail me when you get a chance...thanks!
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OZZY
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posted February 05, 2003 06:21 AM
Zhooligan gave some advice to turn you head away.
I work with acids and bases daily. (sulfuric, phosphoric,hydrochloric, nitric to name a few of the acids)
Let me expand on this subject a bit, I am not an expert on this, but have been taught by experts in the industry.
NEVER add water to acid,it will boil and possbily explode. ALWAYS add acid to water. The greater volumne of water will cool the chemical reaction as the acid is added. Pour the acid into the center of the water, not down the side of the container. The more water available to the acid the cooler it will be.
Always wear safety glasses or goggles and a face shield when handling chemicals, acids, bases.
Once the acid is diluted I would wear safety googles to apply it to the floor. The solution flinging off the bristles of a wire brush are not anything you want to get in your eyes.
The goggles are a pain to wear , get the anti -fog coated ones, but they are not nearly the pain of getting some of the wash solution in your eyes.
Dont think sunglasses or such are gonna work, they won't! Your forehead will get sweaty, the solution will splash onto your forehead and drain down into your eyes. Just look like a dork and wear the goggles!!!!!!!!!
I have witnessed to many accidents that didn't have to happen cuz the person knew what to do and didnt do it!! Luckily no one I know has lost their vision because of the stupidity they displayed. Dont be the one to ruin this record.
These are the most basic guidlines to follow, at work we would get fired if we did it this way.
We wear safety glasses, mono goggles that are chemical rated, then a full face shield. Acid rated gloves and apron, rubber boots. Always have a similiar clothed safety man standing back ready to resucue your arse. Clear water body shower and eye wash within 20 yds. blah blah blah, hope you get he idea how serious this shit is. BE SAFE with this stuff.
I have been burnt by the mishandling of chlorine bleach, the stuff you would use in a swimming pool! It is ONLY twice as strong as household Purex. I got lazy and used cotton gloves, cuz I wasnt going to get any spills on me while transferring the chemical from one tote to another. And I was to lazy to go get the correct gloves. I had 2 small drops splash on my left glove, no big deal it is bleach for Christs sake I though. After the job was done, 10 minutes or so, I tossed the gloves in the garbage, and washed my hands.
A few days later I had 2 yellow spots on my hand, a week later I had 2 yellow spots on my hand about the diameter of a dime and as thick, fall off.
Made me a believer!! Sure in the hell was glad it wasnt in my eye!
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"It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses......HIT IT!"
Blues Bros.
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worm~hole
Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
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posted February 05, 2003 08:32 AM
...holee chit!...I'm wearing adult pampers and a condom under the biohazard safety suit (HA!) and gasmask my department issued me before I do my garage ...thanks for the heads up, guys...I'm gonna check out my buddy's garage and maybe just have the Farengi-faced looking guys who did his garage do mine...man, I'd hate to make a mistake and end up fumigating my ass!
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ddpete3
Pro
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posted February 05, 2003 08:52 AM
I could stand back and for safety reasons, drink beer and call 911 if anything happens.
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Hells Dark Lord
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living life, and loving it.
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posted February 05, 2003 09:12 AM
911......
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WARBIRD
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posted February 05, 2003 10:17 AM
Edited By: WARBIRD on 5 Feb 2003 10:31
Here is a picture of my shop. I used Rust-oleum Epoxy Shield. It's a two part system that comes with floor prep, epoxy paint and paint chips you toss up in the air as soon as you roll the paint on. The paint chips give it a non slip surface and look just great. Printroom sucks for posting pictures. Does Bikeland have an image uploader?
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WARBIRD
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posted February 05, 2003 10:55 AM
There are some more pics in this thread from Gixxer.com Can someone help me make it a link? What do I put before and after the address? The flooring has held up extreamly well and is very easy to clean. Impervious to gasoline,antifreeze,oil and hot car tires. 
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=012380
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ddpete3
Pro
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posted February 05, 2003 02:09 PM
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=012380
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WARBIRD
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posted February 05, 2003 02:57 PM
Thanks ddpete.
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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ddpete3
Pro
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posted February 05, 2003 03:03 PM
Edited By: ddpete3 on 5 Feb 2003 15:19
if that were my garage there would be piles of crap everywhere, as in, I have to move a car, the garbage can and my golf clubs to get to my bike.
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ohitstodd
Novice Class
Posts: 73
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posted February 05, 2003 04:34 PM
quote:
Todd...I'd be interested in seeing your set-up...I'm also curious about your 'skids'...I can't picture it...post here or e-mail me when you get a chance...thanks!
You got it.
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