chango
Expert Class
Posts: 165
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posted July 12, 2009 04:26 PM
New clutch Clutch squealing on take off!!
I'm a newb in every way when it comes to bikes. I just got my clutch redone. It hooks up really good but when going to first it makes a squealing sound kinda like it's slipping. I took it back to the mechanic he put in a different metal plate and said that should help with the stack height. However it did make it better but it still makes the noise on hard launches and when I have a lot of weight on the bike. Is this common? Once it is engaged it does not slip at all! Any info would help thanks in advance!
  
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted July 12, 2009 05:05 PM
1. your probably dragging the clutch too much while it's over heated...
2. you may have a warped steel or 2...
3. you probably need a new hub...
What clutch set up did he put in???
Did you have the shop just replace the fibers, or did they replace the steels too?
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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Chango
Expert Class
Posts: 165
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posted July 12, 2009 06:46 PM
It was a Barnette clutch!
1- it could be that Im dragging the clutch I'm trying to get ued to how it feels now. However it happens when I first get on! So I don't think heat would be the issue
2- It started this as soon as I got it back. However I could have warped it when i first got it
3- I could ask him about the hub
He replaced it all steels and frictions.
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BrooklynNYZX12
Zone Head
Posts: 520
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posted July 12, 2009 06:47 PM
Ditch that Barnett Clutch before its in your oil pan,go with oem stuff.
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Orient Express Top Street Bike Winner 8-4-07
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted July 12, 2009 07:13 PM
Chango.....Please dont tell me he put the Kevlar barnett clutch in there...Please dont tell me he did that to you???
If he did...Take that shit the hell out of your bike...Put in new OEM friction and steels, do not use the steels in there now!!!
and CHANGE THE OIL...........................
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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Chango
Expert Class
Posts: 165
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posted July 12, 2009 08:31 PM
To be honest with you at this point my budget will not allow me go with the OEM. Is the barnette a bad choice just for the 12 or is that across the board? I was advised by a friend to go with that kit.
Damn I hate learning things the hard way especially at $200 plus! O.k. Where do I go from here?
-I had him do a oil change when he did the clutch.
-I road all day today and I made sure I did not feather or drag the clutch in 1st . (seemed to eliminate the problem)
Thanks for all of the info. I apprecieate that you guys are being straight with me. My mechanic is a good guy he knows a hell of a lot about bikes but I think he doesn't specialize in info about the 12.
I think it will be a good while before I will be able to justify the cash flow to replace the clutch.
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted July 13, 2009 04:59 AM
Kevlar is a ballistic nylon, it is used to make bullet proof vests...
Kevlar has no place as material in clutch fibers...As the clutch wears away it gets mixed in the oil which then flows through out the motor...Kevlar will excelerate wear and tear of the interior parts of any motor over time!!!
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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Chango
Expert Class
Posts: 165
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posted July 13, 2009 05:20 AM
Wow! I had no idea! Are all of the barnette clutches Kevlar? Man that sucks! As soon as I can justify it in my budget I will go for the O.E.M setup. Do I just do the metals? or will I have to do the entire thing?
I was reading on other threads and forums about clutch chatter. Is this what I'm experiencing in terms of the noise?
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BrooklynNYZX12
Zone Head
Posts: 520
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posted July 14, 2009 01:57 PM
The extra money for an oem clutch is much cheaper than the damage caused by a shit aftermarket clutch in your engine...do the math.If the bike was used for pleasure/commuting the Barnett would prolly be ok..but for dragracing it you are only headed for trouble.Jus my .02
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Orient Express Top Street Bike Winner 8-4-07
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Chango
Expert Class
Posts: 165
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posted July 15, 2009 09:32 PM
I know it may sound like a waste but my 12 rarely sees more then 7000 RPMs! On occasion I will jump another bike. however that's a rare thing. I simply enjoy the power of this bike with out testing it. I guess I've gotten more mellow as time has past. I know my bike is fast so I have nothing to prove. (not to mention I'm fairly new at riding)
The math does add up! I will plan on doing a swap as soon as possible!
Will I be able to use the barnette steels???
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted July 16, 2009 04:47 AM
what size are the steels...that will judge how many frictions u need to buy
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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DeathProof
Novice Class
deceased
Posts: 51
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posted July 25, 2009 03:51 PM
i have run the barnett kevlar kit and had no issues, 1272cc named Death and i top my 12 out almost every day on an arrow strait 2.5 mile access raod where i live. barnett has a huge factory and unlimited income to figure this shit out, why sell the part if it is crap or worse yet can cause engine damage? kawasaki sold us the bs clutch baskets the detonate under hard accelleration and they make crappy quark and aluminium friks! are we not sure that the oil fiter can handle/collect the crap that is goin to shed of all clutches? i think barnett are good for beating up on but some of you out there may diffinitly know more about this so i give pause but not for long. ask KZscott bout this, he seams to have the time spent beatin up these parts. he will know, im sure.
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DeathProof
Novice Class
deceased
Posts: 51
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posted July 25, 2009 03:54 PM
hey, i forgot that if aftermarket friks kit is used you should remove the 2 washers from the clutch pak, you know, the ones that space the first frik that is narrower in the stak. remove them and the problem should cease.
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted July 25, 2009 09:02 PM
listen to CR. get rid of the kevlar
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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2000redrocket
Pro
Posts: 1662
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posted August 02, 2009 12:51 PM
i had a whole kit (barnett) that was suspose to be ready to go. so when i took it out cause it would not hold the power at the drag strip i noticed the stack hight was below the minimum and only 2 weeks of riding and maybe 15 passes. the shop i got it from got me a new clutch puller arm.
till i took it out the 60ft math did not work.
sorry for the bad news but if only one guy here says they are "good" well you can add it all up.make it go away. i have mine in a bag (the whole thing).
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted August 02, 2009 05:37 PM
the one guy that likes them said listen to me lol. I say OEM 
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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Chango
Expert Class
Posts: 165
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posted August 04, 2009 10:22 AM
took rings out and problem gone! I will look into OEM in the future! Will synthetic oil help out with clutch funtion?
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