entropy
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posted March 27, 2008 02:01 AM
Dr Doug Meyer: ride height for LSR??
hey Doug,
in looking at yr impressive LSR history, i becha you have cogitated on F-R height set up.
My ever suffering heap has cut forks and adj lowering links so i have completely lost any semblance to factory front/rear height set up.
1. you have any "thumb of rules" on F/R height????
2. have you done LSR with the front strapped down just a bit??
We are doing the Texas Mile this weekend and yr advice is always appreciated!
Karl
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zrexpilot
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posted March 27, 2008 08:49 AM
the lower the better.
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LandspeedLarry
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posted March 27, 2008 11:57 AM
Lower the better doesn't work at Maxton, too bumpy. Texas I hear is smooth so you should be OK. Most important is to have to bike level. Front or rear rake creates drag. Have fun and be safe. LSL
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VincentHill
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posted March 27, 2008 01:45 PM
Raise the tubes and lower the rear no more than 2 inches. Lower than that will bottom the fairing on the Ground and the Ram Air scoup on the front fender. Use a tie wrap on your Fork Tube and see EXACTLY how much travel you have! That is Exactly how much you can lower the front. Usually abou the same for the rear
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dougmeyer
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posted March 27, 2008 05:21 PM
As low as possible while maintaining suitable geometry and still having whatever suspesion travel is necessary for the conditions. The only reason you are doing this is to reduce the amount of frontal area defined by the unmasked area of the tires.
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entropy
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posted March 27, 2008 08:16 PM
i guess i wasn't clear...
I know that lower is better, it's the "maintaining suitable geometry" part i am concerned with.
How do you determine that??
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entropy
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posted March 27, 2008 08:17 PM
 Edited By: entropy on 27 Mar 2008 21:18
double post...
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LandspeedLarry
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posted March 28, 2008 05:38 AM
Karl: Strapping the front is not a good idea because it takes away suspension travel which you have already decreased with the cut forks. If you slide the forks up you decrease trail but modern frames are so stiff that shoud not be an issue. MOST IMPORTANT: a quality steering damper. Crank it stiff and you will be fine. Jim Owen has been 220 at Bonneville on a 12 with no issues. I assume you have an extended swingarm from the drags; that might make you spin the tire in the lower gears, but you are a drag racer you can deal with that. Summary: level bike with firm suspension and stiff steering damper. Have at it !!
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted March 28, 2008 08:35 AM
Heard Karl made it to the track already and will be doing a quality control inspection on all the Tex-mex resturants within a couple mile radius. He'll hook TFA up with some good ballast material to settle that rear tire slippage.
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dougmeyer
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posted March 28, 2008 09:15 PM
My point is tread carefully. For the most part just dropping the clamps on the tubes works, but doing this on the front without dropping the rear will steepen the steering angle reducing the trail and bringing you closer to wobble territory. On a 12 it works fine, I'm just being careful with my statements.
Hi Larry! Nice to hear from you. How're you doing?
Doug
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entropy
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posted March 29, 2008 02:46 AM
Edited By: entropy on 29 Mar 2008 03:47
Doug, yep, "tread carefully"
Larry, my forks are cut and dropped, the back is dropped & extended.
steering damper - check.
I have tried to mimic the relative height between F & B by comparing with a stock bike.
thanks for the tips!!!
;bigthumb
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