twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 05, 2007 07:24 PM
double checking
was just reading a thread with shane and Vince Hill and a couple of others and Doug meyer told shane that the outermost fiber should be notched or offset and that it could be distinguished by it being narrower than all the rest,, i thought the narrower fiber that is all by itself is the first fiber to go on the hub (deep inside) and the reason was to allow the 2 round springs or what ever they are called to ride inside the larger diameter.. am i wrong because i am throwing in the clutch in the morning and i couldve sworn we did what i jsut said to my brothers bike,, this is gonna be the 2nd clutch change for me,, so im trying to get my ducks in a row so to speak..
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
  
|
KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
|
posted December 05, 2007 09:50 PM
link to thread???
the last fiber that goes in is offset on a stock basket, not on any billet baskets. the only narrow fiber goes in first with the 2 steel springs (the flat one goes in first)
check the parts diagrams on the kawi site, theres only 1 narrow fiber.
from when i had a stock basket:
note how the fiber is just about bottomed out! the stack height was about 2mm below the service limit, (but all fibers were still above their individual service limit), i learned the hard way to not let that happen! (broken parts, and a missed race wknd spent "learning")
now running an MTC billet basket:
(no way possible to offset the last fiber)
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 06, 2007 07:09 AM
Hey Scott,, i really appreciate all the responses,, and as i read all the posts from a search on clutches i see that you were new to this at one time,, OK that being said,, i just put the clutch pak in at a 57.4 stack height.. on the falicon the fingers and the top are curved slightly and the last plate rides underneath (clearing the fingers but not by much),, i noticed that the puller shaft,, (the pin that the arm pulls on to disengage that runs dead center into the stack has about 1/8-1/4 inch play in it,, is that normal,,does the arm take up that slack once the cable is connected..? the springs are in and tight and i have a lilplay in it and dont want to button it up until i find out if thats normal! thanx
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
|
shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted December 06, 2007 07:41 AM
 Edited By: shane661 on 6 Dec 2007 07:43
B-Model ('02 and up) use two of the thin fibers and flat springs. The outermost plate is to be offset when using the stock basket. The flat spring(s) go where the thin fibers are.
Shane
|
twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 06, 2007 08:06 AM
shane my question is,, was it normal for the puller shaft to be a lil loose after intallation,, i guess the slack is taken up by the arm once the cable is taught.. does that make sense?
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
|
shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted December 06, 2007 11:56 AM
Edited By: shane661 on 6 Dec 2007 12:54
You need a little bit of slack in the actuator arm, when the clutch is cold. Otherwise, when the clutch heats up and expands you will have problems. So, do not take all of the slack out of the cable on the end with the arm.
You will notice that the procedure does not tell you to tighten the nuts until all slack is gone. Rather, you tighten it initially by pulling the cable taut with your fingers, and then verify that it is at the proper angle when manually removing the slack by pushing on it. Make sense?
Hope this helps.
Shane
|
twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 06, 2007 12:17 PM
Edited By: twista on 6 Dec 2007 12:25
the diagram above says to pull the outer cable tight at the clutch cover, then lock it down w/the 2 12mm nuts, i dont see where it says to leave a little slack,, im lost? Help,, should i just wait till spring and fire her up when its warm and see how she acts,, and is there a break in on new clutches,, it is hard (actually cant get it into neutral when in first gear right now)
OK,, the actuater arm (the pin that the arm pulls on) had about a good 1/8 play maybe more BEFORE i put the clutch cover on..
a friend told me to pull the cable snug at the clutch cover then lock it down w/the 2 12mm nuts..
then go to the lever know and make sure there is 1/8 free play. does that sound OK,, he told me that it would have to warm up good and break in ,, because they are known for creeping when newly installed.. if its creeping once put into gear,, doesnt that mean that the clutch is slightly engaged? and i would have to make an adjustment or let it break in when warm outside etc?
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
|
shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted December 06, 2007 12:35 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 6 Dec 2007 12:54
Pull it taut with your fingers (at the cover). That still alows for some slack since you can push on the arm a bit before it starts to disengage the assembly.
Just curious, what type of plates are you using? I would say it is normal for it to drag a little right after install. Mine was fine after a little ride around the block.
|
twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 06, 2007 12:50 PM
Edited By: twista on 6 Dec 2007 12:51
Shane,, yea i pulled it snug by hand and then locked it down,, it has a 12 fiber 11 1.6 STOCK plate setup with 6 Brock Davidson springs,, the oil was like syrup cause it was in my pickup overnite plus it is 30 degrees outside,, do you think i have anything to worry about? me not being able to get neutral is that normal when breaking it in?
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
|
shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted December 06, 2007 12:53 PM
Nah, it should be fine. The plates are probably stuck together, that's all. I'm sure that when you ride it around for 20 miles it will be fine.
|
twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 06, 2007 01:00 PM
Thanx Bro,, i appreciate you taking the time to help me!
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
|
KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
|
posted December 06, 2007 01:48 PM
i guess im only used to the A bikes. didnt know the B had an extra one of those plates. my bad. (mine is getting all regular fibers when its going back together)
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 06, 2007 02:02 PM
Scott mine is an A Model ,,2000,, BTW,, thanx for all your input,, in all the clutches youve done,, have you experienced anything like this,, and what is your opinion on this creeping and adjustment business? Vic
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
|
KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
|
posted December 06, 2007 04:02 PM
the only thing that was similar was the ape kit with hd springs i put in my 650. harder to find neutral, and it did kind of creep a bit i guess. but it was just an adjustment problem... the pusher wasnt pushing far enough when the lever was pulled. did you put the plates in dry? oiled? maybe try a couple launches (slipping the clutch a fair bit, but not excessivly) to see if they "wear in" or act any different. see if they are dry after you do this.
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 06, 2007 04:09 PM
oiled all of them up good,, let the fibers soak overnight,, and then stacked the steels alternating them and the fibers last night so i could check stack height,, then this morning finger applied oil to every plate on install,, she was wet!
tomorrow i have to reverse bleed the new braided lines and then i will warm her up again and see how she acts,, thats why im picking everyones brain tonight. thanx scott
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
|
dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
|
posted December 06, 2007 10:47 PM
Looks all good. It should work out. Sorry I mislead you on the narow plate. It does, in fact go in first. It's been 7 years since I used a stock clutch stack.
____________
It's not that I think you're dumb, it's just that so much of what you know isn't true....
|
twista
Zone Head
" Get up, and Stay up ! "
Posts: 797
|
posted December 07, 2007 08:47 AM
Not a problem,, yea i know about that because i just pulled it apart the day before the install,, i was jsut trying to find out why it was creeping.. thanx Doug
____________
" When in Doubt, There is no Doubt !"
|
|
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC