heavy ak
Novice Class
Posts: 64
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posted September 20, 2007 08:44 AM
1270 or 1375?
'00 ZX-12R, K&N airilters, PC III USB, Full Muzzy Exhaust
I run the twisties...1 1/2 - 2 mile races and a little city driving.
I want more power and Muzzy claims that the 1375 kit is "streetable"....I want the power but I don't want to have to deal with major overheating.
Will there be any cooling issues?
will there be any breakdown issues?
All the work will be done by my mechanic from Kawi...
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A little GAS is a good thing!
  
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Megabyte
Pro
Posts: 1047
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posted September 20, 2007 10:35 AM
My 1361 has never over heated, but when the engine is warm, it's a crap shoot whether or not the starter will turn her over. Several times, I've had to wait for the engine to cool before she would start.
The last time was particularly annoying. I was out riding the twisties with some buds, and the lead bike couldn't make a corner, and ended up in a cow pasture. We all ran to help; only his ego was bruised. However, my bike refused to start, and we all had to wait 1/2 hour before she'd fire up.
There are fixes for the starting issue.
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We First make our habits and then our habits make us.
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heavy ak
Novice Class
Posts: 64
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posted September 20, 2007 01:43 PM
get out....I never even thought that the bolt on cc's would mess with my starter!
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say-what-u-want
Expert Class
Posts: 296
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posted September 20, 2007 03:23 PM
Stay with the 1270 i had the 1375 no no with back with the1270 U have to do a lot of work to your cases to make the 1375 work stock rods is a no no. the 1270 will run right there with the 1375 only difference is 20 hp
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it's all good(laugh now cry later fools)
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supra5677
Pro
Posts: 1279
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posted September 20, 2007 05:13 PM
actually the difference is less than 20 horsepower.. 1270 is better dollar for dollar
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted September 20, 2007 07:19 PM
quote:
actually the difference is less than 20 horsepower.. 1270 is better dollar for dollar
I agree, usless you are a serious racer the 1375 is very expensive to build and maintain.
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heavy ak
Novice Class
Posts: 64
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posted September 21, 2007 09:08 AM
I had no idea the 1270 was that comparable to the 1375....
I also thought the 1375 was an easy application...Muzzy makes it seem as if it's a simple bolt on job and no worries after installation. I usually follow the Muzzy info because they have such a long relationship with Kawasaki.
If I get the 1270 kit do I also need to replace the stock fuel pump...I know I'll be close on the HP limit. Anything else need to be replaced to make the bike run better with the kit?
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A little GAS is a good thing!
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TRNorBRN6001
Needs a job
Posts: 2021
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posted September 21, 2007 09:41 AM
Yep, I'd say some drop in pistons would be the most reasonable monetary wise.
How about JE's 1290 Kit.
24 volt starting system works well with those monster motors!
Shouldn't need a new fuel pump for a 1270 or 1290.
A Good Dyno tune is a must!!!!!!!! or don't bother with a piston kit.
Kawi mechanic might be able to handle a drop in kit, but I would not trust any
dealerships or many mechanics to do much more performance work than that!
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TFA 200MPH CLUB MEMBER!
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supra5677
Pro
Posts: 1279
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posted September 21, 2007 11:38 AM
keep in mind the 1375 is a major increase in stroke.. more torque not so much in horsepower.. Net difference in horsepower is only 10-15 on dyno charts..
1270 or 1290 kit with 105/105LC or 105/107LC is GOOD!!!
supra
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Megabyte
Pro
Posts: 1047
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posted September 21, 2007 03:30 PM
My 1361 makes 212 RWHP and 124.9 ft/lbs torque. Torque gets you going and HP keeps you going. Personally, I believe the stroker is only as good as the builder, and I wouldn't do the stroker again unless I could get Mike Velasco or someone with his expertise to build it. I agree that the 1270-90 is the best bang for the buck.
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We First make our habits and then our habits make us.
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countersteer
Needs a job
Didn't read the owners manual
Posts: 2207
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posted September 21, 2007 06:29 PM
had the 1375 for a while but now run a stock crank, bringing it down to 1270. to solve the hot start problem when she was a stroker i did a 24v conversion. very happy with the 1270, but i do miss the 1375 setup.
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Scott
Long Island, New York
2006 ZX-14, 2003 ZX-12R
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psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
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posted September 22, 2007 06:11 AM
Muzzy pump is a very good idea with a 1270 and up.
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lonniemac
Expert Class
Posts: 225
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posted September 22, 2007 07:46 AM
the fuel pump is a must for the 2000, remember what happened to Doug Meyer on a stock motor on top end. i did the pump with my 1270 and have no problems.
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say-what-u-want
Expert Class
Posts: 296
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posted September 23, 2007 06:43 AM
stay with the 1270 and get that high flow fuel pump u will be alright get it dyno
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Y2KZX12R
Needs a job
CompetitionCNC.com
Posts: 3762
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posted September 23, 2007 01:40 PM
The only real issue with the 1375 besides the hot starting issue is that the piston skirts wear out fast due to the increase in rod angle and the fact that your pulling the skirt out of the bottom bore more. This wears out the skirts faster.
The rods can handle 300+ hp so there not a problem. However, rod cap alignment issues are a problem, mostly if you have replaced the rod bolts like the manual says.
Most stroker bottom end problems stem directly to this rod cap alignment issue.
Have the rods resized if you replace the rod bolts.
And you should ALWAYS measure the rods for cap misalignment issues every time you take the rods apart. Measuring the bearings oil clearance only will bite you in the ass every time.
The 1270/1290 kits are the best bang for the buck, but a 1375 has way more torque and makes for an awsome street bike. The midrange power of a 1270/1290 doesnt even compare. simply put a 1375 will walk right past a 1270/1290 ever with stock cams.
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Y2KZX12R
CompetitionCNC.com
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted September 23, 2007 06:04 PM
The 1375 CAN be a good street engine if built right, but right is a small target often missed.
If you need the power and you have a VERY GOOD builder then go for it.
I would bet a 1290 with head clean-up and cams would be very close to a 1375 with stock head/cams. Take a poll, the 1361/1375 does not have a very good track record for the masses.
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johnnycheese
Pro
Posts: 1008
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posted September 23, 2007 06:06 PM
1270 with a 175 shot
works great
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Builder and tuner of some of the fastest N.A. and P/A Hayabusas and ZX12 /14 in Texas
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wolf racing
Expert Class
Posts: 138
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posted September 24, 2007 12:59 AM
If you want reliability and like a bit more, the 1317 Muzzys kit is great. Billet barrels. Our barrels are six years old and look like they were honed yesterday. Same pistons still in as well. Yep, it costs more, but that's life. No such thing as a long lasting motor with mega horse power that's cheap.
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Never Ever Give Up
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nox
Needs a job
PMRA / TMRC Super Street 4022
Posts: 3745
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posted September 24, 2007 05:08 AM
How many passes..........
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted September 24, 2007 09:36 AM
Build a 1375 right and it is a bulletproof torque monster. They improved the block design after the first batches to make the install easier.
like Y2 says though, the 1270 is the best bang for the buck anywhere.
Doug
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heavy ak
Novice Class
Posts: 64
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posted September 24, 2007 12:07 PM
Hhhhmmmmm...... it seems that it's a matter of HP or Torque... I do belive that I will go with the Muzzy 1270 kit and Fuel Pump.
I would imagine that with the extra 70cc I should be able to pull top speed with 18/46 gearing...which would put me at approx 193 or so or if I stay with the 17/46 gearing I should be at 186 but I should get there WAY quicker...right?
Bear in mind....1 /1/2 - 2 mile race...depends on displacement of bikes racing. The little bikes get away quick from 2nd and I have to run them down by 5th....
Most of the bikes I race against are GSX-R 1000's, ZX-10s, and a few Busa's for flavor.
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A little GAS is a good thing!
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted September 24, 2007 10:11 PM
Not so much. You are oversimplifying. I know you are new on the site- do some searches on top speed, gearing, hp vs torque etc. There is lot's to learn... on the topic and that topic has been one of our favorites. Right guys?
Doug
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted September 25, 2007 03:53 AM
LOL, Doug is right about the top speed, gearing, hp, etc topic!
You stated 17/46 is good for xxx mph and 18/46 is good for xxx mph. It depends on your clutch, on what kind of tire you have, the condition of both, available traction and your rear suspension.
That being said, Warp12's bike has gone 189.3 @ Maxton with 17/46 gearing, GPS showed 189.
Doug has gone 199.1 mph with 18/46 gearing, I personally ran that gearing and ran 198.5 mph right about at the stock rev limiter.
I have the extended ecu on the bike now and ran 16/44 gearing...that got me 192.4 mph at 12,500 rpms indicated, 300 or so mroe to go...it was pulling the overrev no spray like it was cake.
Stock ecu if you want 200 mph gearing, it is generally accepted that you'd go 18/46 or 18/45.
A.
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heavy ak
Novice Class
Posts: 64
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posted September 25, 2007 10:14 AM
Hhhmmmm I'm not really looking for the mythical 200 mph...I'm 270 lbs and I produce plenty of drag.
I am really interested in the top speed of my bike with: a 1270 kit, full exhaust, PC III USB and K&N airfilters. I always buy new tires to start the season here in Alaska and I am running the stock clutch...I'm thinking of going with the Muzzy clutch and basket though.
I suppose that velocity stacks should get me a bit more as well....
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A little GAS is a good thing!
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TRNorBRN6001
Needs a job
Posts: 2021
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posted September 25, 2007 12:22 PM
With enough paved real-estate and a touch of Nos you should be able to get the
mythical 200mph easy. I was 250-260 lbs when I went 195.74 on a stock motor,
Muzzy can, PCIIIr, and a little nos. That was in one Mile as well.
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