shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted July 15, 2007 08:41 AM
Weight Reduction: BIG GAINS!
Well, now that I'm working at the shop (RnR Cycles in VA) and my boss is a die-hard kawi racer I'll probably be tinkering a bit w/the 12
1st up, we're putting my bike on a pair of scales he has, I forgot the brand but its for bikes. We put his old RACE ZX-9R that dynoed 153 RWHP and it was 395 pounds with no fuel, so a splash would be right at ultra low 400s....I think the 636 was at 375 and an R6 bone stock was 374 with some gas.
Put my 12 up with literally a splash of fuel: 449-453 pounds!!!!
No signals
no mirrors
no headlights
no stock front upper (Airtech fiberglass replacement)
carbon fiber wheels (saved 12+ pounds)
Pirelli Tyres (Anything is lighter than the 207/208 dunlop 200 series rear!)
Full Titanium Muzzy (not sure but I suppose I could weigh it @ the shop)
636 rear rotor
no horns
no mudflap/parachute/reflectors
no bar ends
But it does have added to it:
2 nos bottles, 1 was empty, other was 3/4 full
Nitrous lines, solenoids, gauge and brackets (a few pounds there)
Another pound for the bottle heater and switch
Bear short stacks....hey at least they're short
Power Commander
Muzzy Steering damper
MPS Kill switch
I plan on dropping 25 pounds off the 12 in the near future On top of that I would like to drop about 10 pounds myself and see if I can get to 110 pounds FLAT
With gear I'm 139....about 137-138 now! As for the 12...
I have a fiberglass drag seat that I didn't mount for the weigh in
Gas Tank weighs 13 pounds w/no cap, pump or lines (lightweight cap...hmmm)
Lightweight front rotors would be nice....Warp12 said he saved about 1 pound from each!
($$$)
My sponsor Rick may hook me up w/a superlight pair of footpegs, crg levers and a lightweight/racing battery ....3+ pounds right there...probably hack an inch off the pegs too since they touch down in turns early now that its lowered.
Not much else I think I can do really.....lightweight bodywork....subframe, rear tail.....but the bodywork doesn't seem worth it $-wise....the subframe and tail....I like the convenience of using the key. A solo tail and a nitrous bottle would be a pain constantly taking off and putting back in, not to mention checking the gauge (that would require relocation at least so I could keep an eye on things.
Weight will go up a hair too as I am looking at some sort of air shifter...may T it off the nos bottle...why carry another bottle when the spray w/a regulator can do what a co2 bottle can?
I was looking at carbon fiber bottles....but thats....a bit pricey to say the least.
Titanium bolts, at least on the rotating stuff sounds like a plan too, but once again $$$ for a small-ish gain.
Ultimate goal would be for me AND the 12 to weigh in at the same weight as a bone stock 12 or busa would with a full tank of gas!
A.
  
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woppi
Pro
Posts: 1362
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posted July 15, 2007 12:23 PM
?????????
any pics ????????
??????????????????????
woppi
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted July 15, 2007 12:43 PM
1/2 the tank would be less!!
Other than you, not many places to get 25 pounds! ! caliper and Rotor but for Maxton!!
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frEEk
Administrator
ummm... yeah
Posts: 9660
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posted July 15, 2007 12:46 PM
if you go way back in the archives to look for a description of zhooligan's (RIP) 12, it was damn near as light as you could get it. he did most anything, including the $$$ Ti bolt package. may be some good ideas there.
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TRNorBRN6001
Needs a job
Posts: 2021
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posted July 15, 2007 03:44 PM
Like Mr. Hill Said go with one of his cut tank designs. You may also just want to sit on the tank itself instead of a drag seat, you just might be able to tuck your arse under the rear cowl. A lighter swingarm maybe the ticket as well. I have also seen a few carbon fiber front fairing brackets floating around, along with CF front fender, CF handle bar tubes, CF heel guards, maybe loose the inner intake tube covers. I have also seen people running one brake disc on the front instead of two at the mile. Loose the instrument cluster and just run a tach or a shift light. Maybe relocate your smaller battery closer to the starter and get rid of the battery box, but you might want to keep the fuses (Buddy had a real nice set up right next to the starter for easier access). A tiger tail may weigh a little less, I do not know..........But if you get one cut the plate bracket off (JC might still have one for sale), or maybe go with out and re locate all the electrical to the front of the fairing/ and or battery box. Maybe 2002 and newer flywheel, counter balancer removal, lighter Pistons, lighter rods, lighten the crank, maybe try the newer cryodized aluminum clutch plates, I have heard bad things about the older ones though. Maybe loose the oil cooler. Take the kick stand off. The Ti axles would be nice, but only if your making Big Money at your new job! Maybe loose the exhaust can and just have a little turn out. Lastly, watch out for that Tex-Mex food here before the Mile! That might get you 25lbs, cause if you loose any more weight you may just blow away in a light breeze!!!!!
Just kidding Ya. Keep us up to date on things.
Gary
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TFA 200MPH CLUB MEMBER!
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zx12adam
Member
Posts: 878
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posted July 15, 2007 06:56 PM
If you want to lose bodyweight all you have to do is watch what you eat and do cardio.
Stick to the treadmill, jump rope, and heavybag. Mix it up every now and then with some bicycle, doesn't burn fat as fast and adds mass to your legs but it's good for the knees and builds on muscles used on motorcycles.
On the treadmill try doing HIIT(High Intensity Interval Training), after a 5 minute warm-up you go to a higher intensity for a minute, then lowwer intensity for a minute, then back and forth for about a minute each for as long as you can handle it or 30-45 minutes. Good for the heart/lungs and burns fat.
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CBR1000RR
Best Literbike: Performance Bikes, Superbike, BIKE, MCN, Road Racing World, and Motorcycle USA
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted July 15, 2007 09:14 PM
Like Mr. Hill Said go with one of his cut tank designs.
----Plan to, just got a spare tank, weighs about 13 pounds w/no cap or pump.
You may also just want to sit on the tank itself instead of a drag seat, you just might be able to tuck your arse under the rear cowl.
---Depends on the purpose. For drag it helps so I don't slide back as much. I still actually have to duct tape shirts and towels and shit just to not slide back to the step!
A lighter swingarm maybe the ticket as well.
----At THIS point, might be too pricey for me. What swingarm? The 10R? If so, not sure what it would take to use my wheels, not giving up on using the carbon fiber wheels.
I have also seen a few carbon fiber front fairing brackets floating around,
----You mean the fairing stay which holds the speedo/lights? Link PLEASE!
along with CF front fender,
----I don't think its as aerodynamic as the A1 model I'm running.
CF handle bar tubes,
----linky?
CF heel guards,
----not as much weight savings there, the stockers are potmetal and small.
maybe loose the inner intake tube covers.
---you mean the front portion of the ram air (that holds them together)? It is heavier than it seems but again, need something thats aero tested if its out up front.
I have also seen people running one brake disc on the front instead of two at the mile.
----I asked about that last time and at Maxton they said you could if it came that way! Otherwise, NO. TX is more lax though so maybe there...
Loose the instrument cluster and just run a tach or a shift light.
---Another good idea. But, at least for me, I like the OEM tach and speedo, seeing them outta my peripheral so I can see what's going on while still going warp speed. Still, good idea though as I already use a GPS anyways.
Maybe relocate your smaller battery closer to the starter and get rid of the battery box, but you might want to keep the fuses (Buddy had a real nice set up right next to the starter for easier access). A tiger tail may weigh a little less, I do not know..........But if you get one cut the plate bracket off (JC might still have one for sale), or maybe go with out and re locate all the electrical to the front of the fairing/ and or battery box.
Maybe 2002 and newer flywheel, counter balancer removal, lighter Pistons, lighter rods, lighten the crank, maybe try the newer cryodized aluminum clutch plates, I have heard bad things about the older ones though. Maybe loose the oil cooler.
-----Too much $$$ right there!!!!!!!
Take the kick stand off.
----Been thinking about that actually plan to for competition now, not sure why I never thought about it before.
The Ti axles would be nice, but only if your making Big Money at your new job!
---Not me!
Maybe loose the exhaust can and just have a little turn out.
----Has it been proven to help aero and HP?? Seems like it would help aero, but not sure how much it would hurt HP up top WOT on nos, if at all. My instinct says its fine but I don't want to lose any HP either!
Lastly, watch out for that Tex-Mex food here before the Mile! That might get you 25lbs, cause if you loose any more weight you may just blow away in a light breeze!!!!!
----haha. So far lost I think 3-4 now. Got on the scale last week: 123...now I'm 119...minor fluctuations though according to meals, etc. Only ate 800 or so calories today, tired.
Just kidding Ya. Keep us up to date on things.
----Will do....a re-weighing will be coming soon!
Ali
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
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posted July 15, 2007 09:30 PM
There is a guy in Hawaii that makes a cut carbon fiber tank!!! dude it is totally bad ass... I had one in my hands once! hit the Jackshow up he can probably give you the contact info...
it is expensive though...
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted July 15, 2007 09:31 PM
So far for sure, next things include:
1) Lighter battery
2) Ti Bolts on sprocket and rotors
3) Lightweight footpegs
That is under 5 pounds
That should be fairly easy for even someone as technically DEclined to do, considering I have access to an entire shop! LOL!
Next will be looking at getting the tank cut down and sourcing a lightweight cap. That should be a savings of maybe 7 pounds? Cap is heavy!
12 pounds right there....if I do go w/a solo tail and hacked up subframe along with my drag seat, I'd say conservatively thats another 5 pounds.
Only then will I start looking at possibly lightening the subframe while I look at different tucks and possibly tail sections. Again, they will depend on my new tuck as a lower tank lets me get lower. Scooted about as far as my arms will let me, my chin is almost always on the gas cap (highest point)....on most bikes its like that for me.
17 pounds...if I can "borrow" some lightweight rotors (since I really won't be applying any brakes/wear and tear to them that would be a pound each.
19....kickstand....20?
Where to get another 5....if I could run 1 caliper/rotor up front it would be a wrap....but I can't at Maxton....hmmm
Shorter levers, no ashtray or tank cover should be 1-2
As for me, I think I have a few more pounds to lose safely. But at 5'6 @ 119 now....lets just say, like my bike, it ain't pretty....but its pretty functional for this sport!
FREEK: I'll have to do a look-up on zhooligan....weird in a way because thats part of my myspace name....a sign?
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nox
Needs a job
PMRA / TMRC Super Street 4022
Posts: 3745
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posted July 16, 2007 05:43 AM
fans
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21 Runner-ups
2010 TMRC Super Street Points Champion
2010 PMRA Super Street #3 Points
2009 PMRA Super Street Points Runner-Up
6 Time Centerville Dragway Points Champion
Sponsored by:
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TRNorBRN6001
Needs a job
Posts: 2021
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posted July 16, 2007 12:50 PM
Don't worry about the weight too much wind conditions and your magic tuck are the key.
Hope to see ya in October.
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TFA 200MPH CLUB MEMBER!
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted July 16, 2007 02:31 PM
How can I find the Jackshow? Link or email?
T&B....I'm greedy, I want it as light as possible dammit!
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osti33
Needs a job
Posts: 2973
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posted July 16, 2007 03:05 PM
quote:
How can I find the Jackshow? Link or email?
T&B....I'm greedy, I want it as light as possible dammit!
You can find him over on Psychobike.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted July 16, 2007 05:44 PM
battery access cover - use tie wrap.
Airbox access covers, use 1/8" clear plastic
oil cooler; is it really needed???
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rgeorge
Expert Class
Posts: 220
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posted July 16, 2007 05:47 PM
My latest weight reduction was to eliminate the rear seat. I made a bracket out of thin aluminum that attaches directly to the plastic seat cover. It hooks and latches just like the seat does.
Anyone else done this?
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted July 16, 2007 06:41 PM
I'll check out psychobike, thanks Ryan.
As for the rear seat, thought about it, but figured if I'm gonna go down that road why not just get a single solo piece. Its a pita though removing it for refilling nos.
Good ideal Karl, thanks!
A.
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osti33
Needs a job
Posts: 2973
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posted July 16, 2007 08:24 PM
quote:
I'll check out psychobike, thanks Ryan.
A.
No problem.
I haven't seen him online in a while but that is where he will be if he is online.
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narider
Expert Class
Posts: 246
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posted July 18, 2007 01:11 PM
quote:
I have also seen people running one brake disc on the front instead of two at the mile.
----I asked about that last time and at Maxton they said you could if it came that way! Otherwise, NO. TX is more lax though so maybe there...
Where to get another 5....if I could run 1 caliper/rotor up front it would be a wrap....but I can't at Maxton....hmmm
Shorter levers, no ashtray or tank cover should be 1-2
Not sure who told you that, but they are mistaken.
As long as you aren't running in the production class you are absolutley fine running one disc up front.
If going over 175mph you have to have at least one front and one rear brake that are independent of each other(one does not cause the other to fail if it goes out). This covers you to run just one rotor and caliper up front in the modified and the altered classes, if anyone has an issue with it let me know and I will be glad to help them read the rule book correctly.
I figure you must be lighter now,,, your mouth doesn't seem near as big as it used to ;-)
Congrats on the new job and... I'll see YOU on the 12th! :-)
Todd
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted July 18, 2007 07:19 PM
now begs the ? ....
how stable is it? a wheel spinning at those speeds....
I know the drag guys do it...just not sure if the same thing goes for lsr....would you need to balance your wheel a little differntly? As it is, instability can be ... lets say easily induced if need be on my 12...
Hmm
A.
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woppi
Pro
Posts: 1362
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posted July 19, 2007 01:19 AM
show me some pics of your bike ???
thx
woppi
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narider
Expert Class
Posts: 246
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posted July 19, 2007 05:19 AM
You'll be fine unless you have other issues(rolling eyes smiley here) that you need to bandaid for.
Todd
PS: I hear you need to run both rotors and calipers at MIR though!
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narider
Expert Class
Posts: 246
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posted July 19, 2007 05:27 AM
 Edited By: narider on 19 Jul 2007 06:32
I don't have any stills, but here's a mobile vid of him and I
Todd
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted July 23, 2007 09:14 AM
Edited By: shiphteey on 23 Jul 2007 10:15
Pic at the strip (airtech fiberglass front upper, full muzzy titanium, carbon fiber wheels, fiberglass drag step seat):
Maxton, naked (no fairings):
Texas Mile (tail shot w/nos bottle):
In a couple weeks I'll have it on the scales again. I want 10 pounds off, NOT EASY but I think I can do it!
A.
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eastbaydave
Needs a job
Posts: 2245
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posted July 23, 2007 09:21 AM
cool man
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Enjoy the ride!
02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted July 24, 2007 07:19 AM
ever thought about getting your rotors drilled out if you dont go to aftermarket ones?
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00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
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