jdrill04
Expert Class
Posts: 238
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posted April 26, 2007 06:10 AM
muzzy airshifter trpuble
I installed muzzy airshifter. but when you crank the bike to test it it starts shifting on its own. i sent the digikill back and they sent me another , but it does the same thing. so i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and could tell me how to fix it.
thanks
  
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted April 26, 2007 09:49 AM
This is due voltage spikes bleeding back into the digikill from the starter. It has happened before, but I thought it had been addressed and eliminated by a Muzzy supplied jumper. When you returned it did you inform them of the problem clearly? Call Dave at ext 106- he should be able to hook you up with the fix.
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jdrill04
Expert Class
Posts: 238
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posted April 26, 2007 06:05 PM
yes and i instaled the jumper , but it does this after the initial start up. it continuously does it the hole time the bike is running untill it gets to 6th gear. i have installed this airshifter on 14, and two busas with no trouble. i was just wondering if anyone else has installed one on the 12 and had this trouble
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g_right
Novice Class
Posts: 84
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posted April 27, 2007 02:41 PM
Not me I had mine for 2 years and it's works great
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted April 27, 2007 03:00 PM
It sounds like something in the system is intermittant like a bad ground or maybe a pin in a connector. Better go over all the wiring carefully.
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ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted April 29, 2007 07:59 AM
I have no experience with the DigiKill but just from a basic electronics troubleshooting viewpoint I would go with Doug's suggestion. The digikill works on many different bikes and you've already swapped it out so that leaves your bike as the odd man out as it were. But having said that may I suggest the following if you find no obvious wiring problems;
It takes an amazingly little amount of energy to trigger a digital input, as little as 1 / 10,000th of an Amp. Noise or spikes on the power supply lines or input lines can cause false switching.
Not having seen a installation wiring diagram I'm guessing here but the shift button is probably a normally open circuit. That is when the button is pushed the button connects the shift wire to ground or 12V. The rest of the time when the button isn't pushed the wire is just hanging out there like an antenna picking up electrical noise.
If you push the shift button down and hold it down does it still shift multiple times by itself while the button is being held down?
Pushing the button, in effect connecting the shift wire to something kills any noise in that circuit. If it stops self shifting when the button is held down that suggests that noise may be coming in through the shift wire.
Is the shift wire routed too close to the injectors or coils?
I know this may sound stupid but any chance the other bikes that work properly have resistor spark plugs and this bike has non-resistive plugs?
Are you using a push button switch on the handle bar somewhere or one of those shift linkage switches?
If it switches even with the button held down it may be a power input spikes. If it was loose wiring then it should falsely shift just by turning on the key (not starting the bike) and wiggling the wires and connectors. But the running bike is a very noisy bike, electrically speaking.
I would power the digikill off an external power source, like a spare battery and see if it still shifts when its not supposed to. That would be a quick way to isolate for noisy power input. Of course again not having seen a wiring diagram I couldn't describe exactly how to do that. There are several issues like does the digikill actually power the injectors through the digikill power line or just switch the bikes injector power. Same with the shifter solenoid is it powered by the digikill or just switched by the digikill.
The next best thing, if it was any bike other than the ZX-12, would be to hold the two power leads from the digikill directly on the battery terminals and see if that improves it. The battery tray makes that kind of difficult. Basically all the same strategies for getting noise out of your car stereo amp apply here.
Good chassis ground. Power connected as close to the battery as possible. Inline noise suppressor.
Hope you find some of that helpful.
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