jeremy_kokwk

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posted February 16, 2007 04:09 AM
Radiator Fan.
Is it a norm for the fan to start blowing only after the temp indicator starts blinking or it shld start blowing earlier?
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entropy
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posted February 16, 2007 05:04 AM
Mine starts when the temp gage is at about 10am.
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jeremy_kokwk

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posted February 16, 2007 05:22 AM
last time when i am using the normal coolant, it starts also at around 10am, after i use engine ice, it only starts blowing when the temp indicator starts to blink,i tot it is better but my mech told me by right it should start blowing around 10am else it would be too hot for the engine.
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entropy
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posted February 16, 2007 06:39 AM
I agree w/yr mech, when it is blinking I'd shut it down.
Maybe your temp sensor is bad?? (left side of the rad, in the back)??
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jeremy_kokwk

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posted February 16, 2007 06:49 AM
how do you test the sensor?
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jeremy_kokwk

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posted February 16, 2007 06:51 AM
my mech was recommending me to make a switch to manual on the fan, as to play safe. and it is also cheaper...
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entropy
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posted February 16, 2007 07:03 AM
Again, i agree with yr mech, put a manual switch on it.
To test it is easy. Take it off and put it in water, heat up the water and see at what temp the continuity occurs. I don't have the temp spec handy but can get it if you decide to test it.
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jeremy_kokwk

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posted February 16, 2007 07:17 AM
i see, would it be troublesome to get the temp spec handy for me?
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entropy
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posted February 16, 2007 07:46 AM
with rising temp, the sensor should give continuity between 93-102 defrees C
with falling temp it should go off at 91 degrees C
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VincentHill

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posted February 16, 2007 01:48 PM
On the Older Watercooled Kawasaki I used the Water Temp sender in the Oil temp Sender location Brought the fan on a LOT sooner. The Oil Temp is set for about 240 to 260 degrees using the Water temp brings it on between 210 and 215 degrees
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butta4hc
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posted February 16, 2007 03:23 PM
They don't just make a cooler switch? I have the "heat" issue on my A1. I only been riding it during these cooler parts of last year. I could only imagine what it will be like when the warmer weather comes around. I would love to be able to just ride without having to fiddle with some switch. If the manual switch is my only option does someone know which wires I need to tie into so as not to interupt the auto switch's functionality?
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Butta
Hot Commodities MC
Paterson, NJ
2006 Black ZX-14 - Recall Frame Swap, Full Muzzy GP Exhaust, PCIII, BMC Race Filter, Flies Out, Braided Front Brake & Cutch Lines, Muzzy's Radiator Fan, Engine Ice Coolant, Frame Sliders, SubFrame Sliders, Puig Dark Smoke Windscreen, Powerbronze Hugger, Cox Radiator Guard, Unswitched Powerlet Outlet under seat, Switched Powerlet Outlet On Right Duct Panel, Intergrated Tail Light, HID lights high and low beam, Blue corner marker lights, Eclipse License Plate Blackout Kit, Black Pazzo Levers, Scorpio Alarm, Lojack Theft Recovery System, Rapid Transit Triple Tree Bag, Cortech Tank, Tail & Saddle Bags and the bragging rights for being "The Fastest 14 In The Country" for a few weeks when the 14 made it's debut here in the states.
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blitzkrieg

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Road kill = Free lunch.
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posted February 16, 2007 07:02 PM
Bleed/burp issue I'd bet $20 tonight.
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jeremy_kokwk

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posted February 16, 2007 07:47 PM
ya thx guys, i think i will just settle with a manual fan switch. so when the needle points to ard 10 o'clock i will on it?
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blitzkrieg

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Road kill = Free lunch.
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posted February 16, 2007 08:11 PM
quote: ya thx guys, i think i will just settle with a manual fan switch. so when the needle points to ard 10 o'clock i will on it?
OR you could fix the root problem.
But it's your bike.
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thekaz

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posted February 16, 2007 09:56 PM
quote:
quote: ya thx guys, i think i will just settle with a manual fan switch. so when the needle points to ard 10 o'clock i will on it?
OR you could fix the root problem.
But it's your bike.
YOU BE QUIET !!!!!
I get most of my beer from opening my shop up at night to people who take the cheaper way out
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dougmeyer

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posted February 18, 2007 06:55 AM
I'm with Blitz.
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jeremy_kokwk

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posted February 18, 2007 08:15 AM
okie thx guys, i try to fix a manual switch first and meantime i try to check out which sensor is spoilt.
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butta4hc
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posted February 18, 2007 08:41 AM
quote: Bleed/burp issue I'd bet $20 tonight.
I myself put fresh 'freeze in when I put on my full Muzzy. Also seen it as a must that I do the aluminum fan swap while I had the rad down. I am pretty sure I burped the system pretty good and it seems to run a little cooler but I'm certain I'm gonna have a problem when it warms up. Does anyone have a a pic of an easy place to tap the lines for creating a manual switch?
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Butta
Hot Commodities MC
Paterson, NJ
2006 Black ZX-14 - Recall Frame Swap, Full Muzzy GP Exhaust, PCIII, BMC Race Filter, Flies Out, Braided Front Brake & Cutch Lines, Muzzy's Radiator Fan, Engine Ice Coolant, Frame Sliders, SubFrame Sliders, Puig Dark Smoke Windscreen, Powerbronze Hugger, Cox Radiator Guard, Unswitched Powerlet Outlet under seat, Switched Powerlet Outlet On Right Duct Panel, Intergrated Tail Light, HID lights high and low beam, Blue corner marker lights, Eclipse License Plate Blackout Kit, Black Pazzo Levers, Scorpio Alarm, Lojack Theft Recovery System, Rapid Transit Triple Tree Bag, Cortech Tank, Tail & Saddle Bags and the bragging rights for being "The Fastest 14 In The Country" for a few weeks when the 14 made it's debut here in the states.
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jeremy_kokwk

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posted February 20, 2007 05:46 AM
i will picture mine done when i get it done and send it to you the pics.
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dougmeyer

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posted February 20, 2007 09:55 AM
Bleed it again. Lean it to the left and have a helper squeeze the hoses repeatedly while you are leaning it. Stand it up and I bet you can add more coolant. Make sure you have a good cap and that the sealing surface on the cap gasket and neck is in good shape.
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avenger

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posted February 20, 2007 02:37 PM
Yep....burp it again, engine ice and manual fan switch.....you will never see it flash atcha again !! And while your in there, get rid of the plastic fans !!
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