stef12rr
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posted January 08, 2007 09:19 AM
Crank clearance .00?
I need the clearance on the crank and rod
Please
  
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entropy
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posted January 08, 2007 10:13 AM
stef:
From Y2000 manual:
Rod bearing clearance OEM spec is .0019-.0033"
Rod Journal OD spec OEM Spec = 1.4561 - 1.4567
main bearing clearanceOEM spec is .0012-.0025"
Main journal spec OEM spec is 1.4561-1.4567
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stef12rr
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posted January 08, 2007 11:43 AM
Thanks
that's was fast
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entropy
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posted January 08, 2007 12:33 PM
On this forum when a member says "jump" we just say "how high sir" 
But yr real question might be: what clearance should I run??
(you'll get a lot of opinions depending on what yr build/use is)
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 08, 2007 01:58 PM
 Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 8 Jan 2007 13:59
quote:
But yr real question might be: what clearance should I run??
(you'll get a lot of opinions depending on what yr build/use is)
Ah, theres the million dollar question. 
What do ya think Karl? .0025-.0028" for sustained high rpm and road race? Maybe .0022-.0025 for drag racing? Maybe .0019-.0022 for 100,000 mile street use with 1000 mile break in?
Thats what I'm thinking.
I had to look at my records ... but i'm running .0026-.0027
The extra oil clearance will cool the crank and rods. but causes more oil in the windage and can cost HP. Extra oil clearance also alows for more rod pinch before bearing to crank contact.
You'll get a lot of varrying answers to this one.
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stef12rr
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posted January 08, 2007 03:01 PM
I took the rod clearance with the plastigauges .001 to .003
crank rod dia num 1 num 2 num 3 num4
1.456 1.456 1.456 1.456
plastigauge + .002 .003 .002 .002
rod dia w/B 1.458 1.459 1.458 1.458
and the bearing are not looking good so i decided to change them
What i do with the bike is 6 track day per summer every week-end i am part of a bike group and we do 600klm so i need reliability
What is the magic num ohhhhhhh Y2K GOD of the gauge ;o)))))
and Y2 we are going in NY 20- 21 of Jan if your are there ll pay a beer
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted January 08, 2007 05:55 PM
Edited By: TRNorBRN6001 on 8 Jan 2007 17:58
I am an idiot, but I think some builders look at where the oil is going and coming from for each journal and decide if they want more or less clearance if possible.
I can't wait till I get a 12 Manual!!!!!!
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 09, 2007 02:58 AM
Steff, I would throw out the plastiguage and just go by hard numbers.
Tenths are a big deal here (.0001") so accuracy is important.
Torque the rods measure the ID with bearings in on each rod.
Measure each crank journal.
Its the only real way to know exactly what you have.
I'll be at the show on friday when the doors open. If your going on fri. we can hook up for a beer.
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entropy
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posted January 09, 2007 03:04 AM
quote:
What do ya think Karl? .0025-.0028" for sustained high rpm and road race? Maybe .0022-.0025 for drag racing? Maybe .0019-.0022 for 100,000 mile street use with 1000 mile break in?
As much as I play with bearing clearances, I don't feel comfortable giving advice 
I'm always asking advice from the experts
That said, I look for 25-30 on rods, 20-25 on mains. My motor doesn't see the street too often.
A LOT of opinions here; stroker/non stroker, 1/4 mi vs LSR, type&weight of oil used, longevity desired.
Listen to Jim, you can't go wrong!
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dougmeyer
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posted January 09, 2007 11:03 AM
I've really never seen a race application where .0025" to .003" wasn't optimum. Chevy, Cosworth, Kawasaki, No matter.
If the crank is straight and bearing bores are perfect (align).0025 works well but usually you need .0028- .0032 to get a nice spin.
Plastigauge? NEVER!
Doug
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted January 09, 2007 12:10 PM
throw out the plastiguage
Plastigauge? NEVER!
Oops, why no plasiguage to check clearances?
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entropy
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posted January 09, 2007 01:24 PM
Edited By: entropy on 9 Jan 2007 13:25
quote:
I've really never seen a race application where .0025" to .003" wasn't optimum. Chevy, Cosworth, Kawasaki, No matter.
If the crank is straight and bearing bores are perfect (align).0025 works well but usually you need .0028- .0032 to get a nice spin.
Plastigauge? NEVER!
Doug
Doug,
are you talking about BOTH rods & mains???
I am under the impression that a going a lil tighter on the mains will help assure getting more? oil to the rods for cooling, especially with the 20/50 syn i'm using.
BTW: i sure agree about f*cking plastiguage grrrrrrrr...
A while ago, I did back to back tests of plastiguage vs a boreguage & Mitutoyo digital micrometer which reads out to .00005" and is repeatable to +/-.0001 (even in my palsied, liver spotted, trembling, creaky ole hands and my rhumey, dazed, near blind eyes).
The plastiguage results were quite variable wrt the direct measurement method.
Especially troublesome are the rods where you have to be so careful to get the plastiguage in the right place wrt the rod vert axis, AND keep the rods from moving while torquing them.
As said before, I am a noob at this motor assembling stuff, but i sure prefer direct measurement.
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stef12rr
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posted January 09, 2007 03:26 PM
ok this is my number crank journal my num 1 is on the side of the magnéto
num 1 1.4561 num 2 1.4558 num3 1.4557 num 4 1.4558
num 5 1.4555
rod measure num1 1.4559 num 2 1.4558 num3 1.4557 num 4 1.4556
what do you think
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entropy
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posted January 09, 2007 03:43 PM
i'd say they look fine
here's my latest one new crank, with rod journals offset and stroked by Marine
#1 rod journal = 1.4562
#2 rod journal = 1.4564
#3 rod journal = 1.4563
#4 rod journal = 1.4562
#1 main journal = 1.4560
#2 main journal = 1.4560
#3 main journal = 1.4559
#4 main journal = 1.4560
#5 main journal = 1.4560
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stef12rr
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posted January 09, 2007 06:33 PM
BUSHING,CRANK,#1,BLUE 4
92028A 92028-1996
Add to pick list BUSHING,CRANK,#1,BLACK AR
92028B 92028-1997
BUSHING,CRANK,#1,BROWN AR
92028C 92028-1998
BUSHING,CRANK,#2,BLUE 4
92139 92139-1051
BUSHING,CRANK,#2,BLACK AR
92139A 92139-1052
BUSHING,CRANK,#2,BROWN AR
92139B 92139-1053
BUSHING,CRANK,#3,BLUE 2
92139C 92139-1054
BUSHING,CRANK,#3,BLACK AR
92139D 92139-1055
BUSHING,CRANK,#3,BROWN AR
92139E 92139-1091
BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BLUE 8
92139F 92139-1092
BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BLACK AR
92139G 92139-1093
BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BROWN
how do they work the color must mean something
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ninja12
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posted January 09, 2007 08:17 PM
http://www.aperaceparts.com/tech/zx12crankspecs.html
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dougmeyer
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posted January 09, 2007 10:39 PM
Karl,
It's a trade off. Flow through the bearings cools them. Pinch that off and you move the oil to the rods. If you have enough flow (and you do) don't worry so much about tightening them up. Yes, I'm saying 2.5 on all of them.
Stef, you need a manual.
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entropy
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posted January 10, 2007 02:07 AM
quote:
BUSHING,CRANK,#1,BLUE 4
92028A 92028-1996
Add to pick list BUSHING,CRANK,#1,BLACK AR
92028B 92028-1997
BUSHING,CRANK,#1,BROWN AR
92028C 92028-1998
BUSHING,CRANK,#2,BLUE 4
92139 92139-1051
BUSHING,CRANK,#2,BLACK AR
92139A 92139-1052
BUSHING,CRANK,#2,BROWN AR
92139B 92139-1053
BUSHING,CRANK,#3,BLUE 2
92139C 92139-1054
BUSHING,CRANK,#3,BLACK AR
92139D 92139-1055
BUSHING,CRANK,#3,BROWN AR
92139E 92139-1091
BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BLUE 8
92139F 92139-1092
BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BLACK AR
92139G 92139-1093
BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BROWN
how do they work the color must mean something
yes indeed, the color does mean something(same for rods & mains):
brown bearing thickness_1.490-1.494mm (0.05866- 0.05882 in), mid = .0587
black bearing thickness__1.494-1.498mm (0.05882- 0.05898 in), mid = .0589
blue bearing thickness___1.498-1.502mm (0.05898- 0.05913 in), mid = .0591
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stef12rr
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posted January 10, 2007 03:29 AM
dougmeyer the book i will get it today
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stef12rr
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posted January 17, 2007 02:36 PM
they send me the zx 12 B1 instead of zx 12 B4 !"/$%?&*()_)_) :0(((( tabarnac
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entropy
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posted January 17, 2007 09:21 PM
quote:
they send me the zx 12 B1 instead of zx 12 B4 !"/$%?&*()_)_) :0(((( tabarnac
are you sure they don't fit anyway??? The numbers changed on some of the bearings i use in my A1, but they fit fine.
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