aliveagain

Needs a life
Posts: 5033
|
posted December 09, 2006 04:37 PM
ring breakin time
I know the brand new bikes are 3000 mile breakin period.How long is everyone taking to break in the rings before proper sealing is occuring on a rebuild .I was told that with the nikosil cylinders,it only took 50 miles.Whats everyone opinion?
____________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
|
MadMike

Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
|
posted December 09, 2006 09:48 PM
I try and give it a couple of hundred... But!! I am just guessing...
____________
200-MPH CLUB MEMBER!
|
entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted December 10, 2006 12:24 AM
I have no idea how long it takes rings to seal but it can't be too long as most race only motors don't see much more running time than a few heat cycles before going to the track.
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
|
Y2KZX12R

Needs a job
CompetitionCNC.com
Posts: 3762
|
posted December 10, 2006 05:26 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 10 Dec 2006 05:30
Its true, rings these days are much more concentric. And cylinders can be much higher quality and true than the 70's. Especially on "no bolt load" blocks like the 12r. Automotive and the newer bike engines that load the block and deck can be much more problematic for good ring seal if there not bored and honed properly. Cylinder and deck distortion is real.
On the engine dyno a typical n/a engine will achieve ring seal as good as its going to get within 30 min of run time. Typically the engine is brought up to an OIL temp of 180 deg. and then the breakin pulls are started. The engine is held at about 10" of manifold vacuum at moderate rpms for a few min and then the load is reduced for a few min. Then 5" of manifold pressure is maintained for a few minutes or so. Then the engine is run with minimal manifold pressure for several slow acceleration rate pulls. Then its held at minimal manifold pressure for 20-30 seconds at 2/3 -3/4 of its max rpm.
Thats about it, then the engine tuning proccess is started.
My buddy prefers Joe Gibbs oils for all his race customers. The BR oil is for breakin.
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/datasheets/JGD_ProductBrochure.pdf
____________
Y2KZX12R
CompetitionCNC.com
|
slug

Pro
Out in search of my mind...
Posts: 1433
|
posted December 10, 2006 06:37 PM
my last street bike rebuild was a 600 yamaha, it took about 100-250 miles to stop visibly burning oil. after 600 miles it still hadn;t lost a half a quart of oil.
|
dougmeyer

Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
|
posted December 10, 2006 09:18 PM
If you can ride it, put a couple of hours on it, change the oil and call it good.
If you have a dyno, same same.
If it's a race bike, build it right, warm it up to make sure you didn't screw something up and go for it. What else you gonna' do?
Doug
|
12r1

Expert Class
Posts: 390
|
posted December 11, 2006 06:27 AM
The break-in on my '00 12R was brutal...as I went by instructions. I just did'nt want ANY issues, so I thought it was worth it.
I've since seen vids of a Kawasaki, and Ducati factory assembly plants that completely blow that stuff out of the water. Before they get crated up, the take 'em through the gears, at high revs, on a dyno. I'd say thier fine to run them as you like, after the first oil change.
|
VincentHill

Needs a life
Posts: 6520
|
posted December 11, 2006 12:43 PM
Did you ever think that after they do what they do we have to do what they say to clean up after words and smooth everything out!.
|
|
|