muleskinner
Novice Class
Posts: 69
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posted December 01, 2006 05:38 PM
 Edited By: muleskinner on 1 Dec 2006 17:39
I like the sound of the GP shift pattern. Pushing down on upshifts would be more positive than pulling up. How do you modify the 12 shifter to the GP pattern?
Also, I know my Honda ST1300 has a cassette type transmission. What kind does the 12 have?
  
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shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted December 01, 2006 07:50 PM
Just an FYI....R&D told me there is NO undercut on the 14 trans! Otherwise, he said it is a jewel of a trans.
Running two bikes with "standard" pattern, and one with "GP" pattern will likely get you a high-side and a trip to the ER when you forget which one you are riding.
Cassette trans, as far as I know, means nothing as far as shift quality goes. It is for ease of maintenance, gearing changes.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted December 02, 2006 02:13 AM
Cassette only means that a Plate holds both shafts and the entire plate can be removed with the gears in tact. The other style like we have the cases hold the shafts and the cases have to bne split to remove the shafts.
If Doug Meyer were to tell you about the GP Shifting it not only sent a MotoJournalist (From Motorcyclist Magazine) to the hospital but completely destroyed a $25,000 ZX11 he had made that was 100 pounds under weight and had French Suspension. Just Learn to shift more positively like $1,500 depended on it (WHich it does) and you will not have problem
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muleskinner
Novice Class
Posts: 69
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posted December 02, 2006 04:40 PM
quote:
Cassette only means that a Plate holds both shafts and the entire plate can be removed with the gears in tact. The other style like we have the cases hold the shafts and the cases have to bne split to remove the shafts.
If Doug Meyer were to tell you about the GP Shifting it not only sent a MotoJournalist (From Motorcyclist Magazine) to the hospital but completely destroyed a $25,000 ZX11 he had made that was 100 pounds under weight and had French Suspension. Just Learn to shift more positively like $1,500 depended on it (WHich it does) and you will not have problem
Yes I was thinking about having two different shift patterns. It would be way too confusing and would most likely end up sending me to the hospital. Not good!
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muleskinner
Novice Class
Posts: 69
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posted December 04, 2006 10:28 PM
I think I have my false neutral problem solved. The last two rides I took (About 200 miles total) I used the "B" method of shifting with no more shiftng problems. Thank's again for all the replies and help. I believe this site is the best for acertaining REAL information about these bikes, not a bunch of bull shit like you find at other sites.
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tuusinii
Pro
Posts: 1031
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posted December 05, 2006 03:48 AM
I had to change the forks at about 60k km(40k miles) but seeing that Your bike has only 1700 miles I'd think that it will get better by the miles. And on Your temperatures I'd use 20W50 oil. I use it and in Finland it isin't exaclty hot - at least not many days in Year. Don't worry about the cold - 20W50 engine oil works well to 0 degrees celsius (32F?). And Your oil change is closing anyway...
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muleskinner
Novice Class
Posts: 69
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posted December 06, 2006 06:36 PM
Edited By: muleskinner on 6 Dec 2006 18:38
quote:
I had to change the forks at about 60k km(40k miles) but seeing that Your bike has only 1700 miles I'd think that it will get better by the miles. And on Your temperatures I'd use 20W50 oil. I use it and in Finland it isin't exaclty hot - at least not many days in Year. Don't worry about the cold - 20W50 engine oil works well to 0 degrees celsius (32F?). And Your oil change is closing anyway...
After reading positive posts about Chevron Delo 400 15/40 in wet clutch bikes, I have intertained the idea of trying it for one oil change. Any thoughts?
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted December 07, 2006 12:39 PM
The higher the weight of the Oil (Top Number) the less Hourse Power the Bike will make. The Higher the weight of the Oil (Bottom Number) the Harder it is to start when Cold and the slower the Oil moves to all of the Parts.
The Oil I race with and street ride with is a 11w 40 Motul E-Tech 100 which is Para and Ester base. The Best of both worlds on the Street and the Race Track. It also have Grape Seed Oil which clings to every part long after the engine is off. This is also the cheapest of the Motul Syn Oils. Last Sunday it was about 50 degrees in Washington and It took forever to drain the Oil on my Blown engine. If you think 10 flows slowly then you ought to watch 20 w flow. One of our Board Members was racing with 5 w 30 and thought it was taking too much power away and went to a "0"W 20 weight!
WAAY back in the day the Hill CLimbers would use Caster Oil and fill the engine up and run it for a while then Drain the Oil just before the race to the top of the Hill. The Oil took away too much power!
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tuusinii
Pro
Posts: 1031
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posted December 07, 2006 02:35 PM
In theory the higher weight will take some power but the difference is not measurable with dyno when the engine is in riding temperature, so in real life it really dosen't matter that much. When the oil is hot the oil gets quite thin anyway. I've seen couple test of different oils (both synthetic and mineral) and different weights. Some 20W50 made more power than some 10W40 and wice versa. So if it gets hot it's better to play safe and choose the better protection to the engine. You shouldn't drain the engine when it's cold or look for differences when the oil is cold, because normally it is hot. Of course if You ride in the snow You'll need lighter oil but otherwice 20w is enough for MC engines... Of course on quater mile the engines are quite cold so there could be some advantage...
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Stuart Racing
Zone Head
N.H.R.A . Dragracing.
Posts: 999
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posted December 07, 2006 05:14 PM
I've used to GP,reverse shift pattern style, on my ZRX'S...Mostly because of a partially fused left ankle....Never missed a shift...Drag raced it every weekend too...But since I just got this 02 zx12 and trying to get used to riding it.(whole different rideing style)..I haven't found the need to reverse the shifter(1 up/ 5 down)..And I don't cut this bike any slack.If there's a week link in it I'll find it...(Just put a set of plates and springs in it.)I haven't missed a shift yet.But I've only had it for a few weeks...2200 miles on her so far...The darg strip closed for the holidays,so I haven't hit the track yet either...And it does have an air shifter on it...I've been useing Lucas M/C oil also 10w40...
Paul....
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Life in the Fast Lane..........
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