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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: brake line woooooo'ssss NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
vozizm


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posted November 25, 2006 07:13 PM        
brake line woooooo'ssss

I have ordered ss lines, What i ordered was ss front and 5in over in the reaar...

1st time they came the front was 5in over and stock rear...

Now they came back rear is correct but front has a banjo on each end..

I thought it would have to be fitted to the funky splitter thingy... Am i missing something


right next to 43095/a/b




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slug


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posted November 25, 2006 07:22 PM        
if they are the correct length and you have a dual banjo for the top you're better off running a line to each caliper. ignore the splitter.

just make sure that you secure both lines properly.


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vozizm


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posted November 25, 2006 07:29 PM        
back of master cylinder has one output,

Do i install both banjos back to back with washers in between?

Would i not need a longer bolt?

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navpreet318


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posted November 26, 2006 07:46 AM        
the longer bolt should have been provided....i got one with my set....its a long bolt with 2 holes in the sides and one in the end....space out the banjos with spacer washers....use a couple or 3 in the middle.....just make sure the banjos are right over the holes in the bolts....
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blitzkrieg


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posted November 26, 2006 08:54 AM        
You don't say what brand of hose, but if they are Galfers or similar quality here is how it works:

You'll have two lines. The longer is for the left line (since it is farthest from the master cyclinder).

Each line will have a banjo at each end. One end will be bent at 12.5% and the other at 25% angle (if I recall correctly). The steeper angle bend are the ones that go to the master cylinder.

The banjo bolts are easy to set up. Just remember washer,banjo,washer,banjo,washer, etc... The banjos always need a washer on each side whether you have one banjo or one hundered. If you have two banjos like at the master cylinder, you should only need one washer between them.

Trial fit carefully. Once you torque the banjo's, the washers compress and should be replaced if removed.

And lastly, although DOT5 fluid is much less potent to paint, make sure everything painted is protected. Fluid has a way of getting on everything you DON'T want it to.
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claude


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posted November 26, 2006 09:27 AM        
Personally, I would stay away from DOT 5 fluid for street usage. I always prefered DOT 4 for its hygroscopic properties.
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ZXLNT


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posted November 26, 2006 11:01 AM        
Voz like Blitz said, trial fit the lines before your tighten the banjos. On some lines you may have to twist the eyelet on the end of the line for it to fit flush against the master cylinder or the caliper. Usually it will say on the packaging which way you can twist the eyelet around. If you twist it too far, dont back it up, go all the way around again..
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vozizm


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posted November 26, 2006 12:56 PM        
GRACIAS... but i dont have that long banjo bolt..

Spiegler Lines, which i bought from Cal-sportbikes

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vozizm


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posted November 26, 2006 01:12 PM        
I have some ELF Brake Fluid which I will use.. and let it gravity bleed
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vozizm


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posted November 26, 2006 04:57 PM        
finally Found the fucking thing,, It was in the Box wrap in paper.. Banjo bolt

I have ELF 5.1 full Synth brake Fluid..

Compliments of ELF and Bikeland Grudge Match 05... Where i beat Osti ans CR to win it...

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slug


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posted November 26, 2006 07:54 PM        
oooh

lest i forget

make sure that no fluid gets on your fork seals....because you'll be changing those within a month of contamination.

don't ask how i know.....messy. very messy.....

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vozizm


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posted November 27, 2006 05:32 AM        
I will drain all the fluid first, or at least as much as i can...


BTW. .. Slug.. How do you know

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slug


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posted November 27, 2006 03:37 PM        

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blitzkrieg


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posted November 27, 2006 05:36 PM        
quote:
.. and let it gravity bleed


Fuck that.

Why, oh why anybody in their right mind would do without this type of tool for what it costs is lost on me.

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16292
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slug


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posted November 27, 2006 08:01 PM        
not sure. except i have never once had a vacuum bleed work by itself on a dry or opened system...sure it sucked all kinds of fluid down to the calipers, but i still had to bleed banjos at the master to get pressure to build up. every single time... (the source of the ill-fated fluid to fork seal introduction btw...)


vacuum tool is nice, but it is not the only way to get the job done. Simple fluid swap, emptying the reservoir, wiping clean, adding new fluid; works a champ. By far the best way to go.

But for anything where the system is broken open you still have to bleed the top to get all the air out eliably.

Oh, don't forget the brake lever voodoo when all is done; tie lever to the bar overnight once you;ve gotten all the visible air out. and don't wreck yourself the first time you handle the brakes the next day.

(first time doing that trick, with 5 year old rubber lines, i about dumped the bike when i grabbed my normal amount of brake lever at the end of the driveway.....and later that day greenglenn got to inspect the headers when some idjit pulled out and i again reacted 'normally' and launched the rear tire in the air.... *oops*...)


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thekaz


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posted November 27, 2006 08:06 PM        
quote:
quote:
.. and let it gravity bleed


Fuck that.

Why, oh why anybody in their right mind would do without this type of tool for what it costs is lost on me.

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16292


+1 and HARD

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osti33


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posted November 27, 2006 08:43 PM        Edited By: osti33 on 27 Nov 2006 20:44
quote:
Compliments of ELF and Bikeland Grudge Match 05... Where i beat Osti ans CR to win it...


LOL!!!

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vozizm


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posted November 28, 2006 05:29 AM        
WHAT..
ur gonna deny it!!

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entropy


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posted November 28, 2006 09:25 AM        
quote:
quote:
quote:
.. and let it gravity bleed


Fuck that.

Why, oh why anybody in their right mind would do without this type of tool for what it costs is lost on me.

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16292


+1 and HARD


+2 but with Mytivac at 1/2 the price
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osti33


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posted November 28, 2006 06:24 PM        
quote:
WHAT..
ur gonna deny it!!


You're killin me here man... lol

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vozizm


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posted November 28, 2006 08:37 PM        
quote:
quote:
quote:
quote:
.. and let it gravity bleed


Fuck that.

Why, oh why anybody in their right mind would do without this type of tool for what it costs is lost on me.

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16292


+1 and HARD


+2 but with Mytivac at 1/2 the price



Link to Mityvac sir?

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vozizm


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posted November 28, 2006 08:37 PM        
quote:
quote:
WHAT..
ur gonna deny it!!


You're killin me here man... lol



he he he ...


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slug


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posted November 29, 2006 04:22 AM        
i got a similar kit at autozone for about 29 dollars.

it's in their tool section.

works great, it'll pull 26" of vacuum on the AC system of an S10 in a few minutes.

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blitzkrieg


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posted November 29, 2006 05:24 PM        
quote:
i got a similar kit at autozone for about 29 dollars.

it's in their tool section.

works great, it'll pull 26" of vacuum on the AC system of an S10 in a few minutes.


Well, what is it Slug, ya hate them or love them? LOL

Related back to the vacuum pump - I think where most people make the mistake is they don't:

1) Seal the bleed jar properly
2) Open the bleed valve way too far

My experience has been let the tool work for you with vacuum and very little bleed.

I wouldn't give up my bleeder for all the tea in China, but that's just my opinion.
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slug


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posted December 04, 2006 07:08 PM        
i like it fine for vacuum intensive jobs like drawing down an AC system.

it was more of a comment on not spending 70 dollars on a 30 dollar tool no bling name but it worked fine.


as far as bleeding brakes goes, again, i use both methods. but never had hte vacuum bleed work by itself on an opened system. either on a bike or on a vehicle. always needed a few pumps with the lever, a banjo burp or something to get the last bit out. then of course the brake lever voodoo.

it's all good. many ways to skin a cat. some ways are faster, some ways are slower but always work as advertised.

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