shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted November 20, 2006 03:57 PM
My point is that the ratios in 5-6 are very tight. So, unless you short-shift you are going to run out of rpm, or be forced to pull 6th gear from an rpm that is not going to make the power you need. You will have to gear it taller to run good speed in 6th, thus killing your drive down the straight. I was running 17-46.
  
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ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted November 20, 2006 05:02 PM
I posted this in the other thread but I'll repost it here.
quote:
The speedo sensor is an inductive pickup just like the one that reads the timing wheel on the right end of the crankshaft only it pulses off the teeth of the 6th gear on the output shaft. The gear has 31 teeth and at 186mph in 6th gear that works out to ~3200 Hz or pulses per second.
This signal is routed to the instrument cluster and the ECU. If the GPack is plugged in between the speedo sensor and the wire harness it would change the speed both the speedometer and the ECU saw. The first speed sensor plug has 3 wires. It then combines with the gear selector plug which has 10 wires. Which did you plug the G-Pack into?
You are correct about the sprocket. Just as a smaller sprocket causes the limiter to kick in before 186 true a larger sprocket would make it kick in at some true speed higher than 186.
If you have Excel here is a spreadsheet you can use to calc measured speed vs true speed with different gears. Change the values in red. The answers are in blue.
http://www.olympus.net/personal/mbially/zx12spdcalc.xls
Here at the value for some of the gears mentioned in this thread
Gears___Measured=True___speed at 11500 redline)
17/46____186=176mph_______188 mph
17/47____186=172mph_______184.6mph
19/42____186=215mph_______230.79mph
19/46____186=196mph_______199.8mph@10900rpm
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ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted November 20, 2006 05:42 PM
quote:
If I remember right the hack for speed restriction on 01-03 bikes with RR:s instruction - the actual signal that goes to the speed input of ECU dosen't never show more than 10-15MPH? So maybe in the later model maybe the signal just has to be closer to the actual value of the speed, because it has been stated that adjusting the speed signal on ZX14 works. Maybe they just upped the limit which is considered "normal" operation and so You can't use the tach signal anymore but need more advanced electronics to make the signal slower. First (and probably easiest) guess would be to make a circuit that would remove half of the pulses so th ECU would see half of the actual speed.
Your right about the original bypass. It would only equal about 10mph at engine redline. As far as making a better fake speed signal what your talking about is a yellow box. The Yellow box reads the true signal and adjusts it by some set percentage. If a yellow box can't fake it out I doubt a simple frequency divider will.
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ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted November 20, 2006 06:20 PM
 Edited By: ridgeracer on 20 Nov 2006 18:22
quote:
the G pack increases the revs in 6th to only 10900? The bike revs to 11625 what gives...
We know the G-pack gimmick is traditionally to fake the gear position. We know the old speedo gimmicks don't work
I've been saying for awhile that I think the new ECUs look at both gear (rpm and gear ratio calculated speed) AND speedo sensor to measure the speed. I did some quick math and the G-pack limit kicks in at a 5th gear speedo to calculated speed error of 110%
G-pack tells the ECU it is in 5th when its in 6th. At 10900 rpm the ECU calculates given the 5th gear ratios etc. that it should be doing 173mph. But the ECU looks at the speedo sensor and and because we are actually in 6th it says 190 mph. Whoa the ECU says, the measured speed is 10% more than my calculated speed. Something fishy is going on hold this speed.
So what if the ECU software says in 6th gear your limit is 186 but in other gears there is no limit as long as the measured speed and the calculated speed are within 10% of each other? That in gears other than 6th its not a limit but a fault condition.
That means if you put a yellow box on the speedo line and reduced it 10% and wired the bike for 5th gear you would make 190 in 6th look like 173 in 5th to the ECU. But because the ECU has a 10% fudge factor it will allow you to run up to an apparent 190 in 5th which would be a true speed of 209 in 6th.
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Zedjon
Parking Attendant
Posts: 5
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posted November 20, 2006 07:47 PM
Well I have returned the Muzzy Bonneville box to the outlet that sold it to me in the first place, I discussed it with the manager there and he pointed out that he couldn't find anything available that garrantees derestricting the 05-06 12R, so he has refunded me my money.
I'm off to Thailand for 6 months, so I'll wait and see what transpires and review the situation then with what options are available and what results have been made when I return to the UK.
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havin it
Novice Class
Posts: 32
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posted January 05, 2007 01:36 AM
anyone made any progress with derestricting their 05 bike yet?
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DrRyanScarsella
Expert Class
Posts: 113
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posted January 05, 2007 05:51 AM
I think RR got it right. Best bet would be to fool the ecu to think its in 5th and turn down speed to get bike to think its not going as fast as it really is. SO at that end, we would need the g pack to fool ecu of gearing, and speedo healer to fool ecu of speed.
That being said, Brock used a speedo healer to fool the ecu on there zx-14 200 plus run. The zx-14 also uses a 32 bit computer, prob quite similar to late model 12's, so it should work for all of us 04-05-06 12 owners.
I will be running my 05 at texas and Maxton in march, should have another report this time, hopefully over 200 this year on stock motor. We shall see, I'm sure there will be commentary on this as it unfolds.
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capt10ed
Expert Class
Posts: 327
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posted January 06, 2007 11:38 AM
Edited By: capt10ed on 6 Jan 2007 11:38
Still with the speedo-healer alone and a 10% error factored in the attainable top speed should be 204.6 before the limiter kicks in.
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DrRyanScarsella
Expert Class
Posts: 113
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posted January 08, 2007 07:01 AM
204.6 would work for me this year!
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soldier7
Parking Attendant
Posts: 14
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posted October 07, 2011 05:03 PM
Edited By: soldier7 on 8 Oct 2011 01:14
How to bypass the 186mph speed restriction on a Kawasaki ZX-12R: http://www.i-hacked.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=178
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soldier7
Parking Attendant
Posts: 14
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posted October 07, 2011 05:10 PM
Edited By: soldier7 on 8 Oct 2011 01:15
Anyone seen this? I just put 5 of them together this guy claims to be an electrical engineer and fellow ZX12R rider. Says he bypassed the restrictor: http://www.i-hacked.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=178
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soldier7
Parking Attendant
Posts: 14
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posted October 07, 2011 06:03 PM
How to bypass the 186mph speed restriction on a Kawasaki ZX-12R
As the story goes Kawasaki designed the ZX-12R to be the first production motorcycle capable of going 200 mph. However authorities in Europe decided to stop the superbike arms race by declaring that motorcycles capable of exceeding 300 kmh (187 mph) would be banned. Starting in 2001 Kawasaki speed restricted the 2001 ZX-12R (ZX1200-A2) to 186 mph.
Examining the wiring diagrams for differences between the A1 and A2 models revealed that the restricted A2 model had an additional wire added to the Engine Control Unit (ECU). This new wire #9, yellow, runs to the same speedometer sensor used by the instrument cluster. I that this speedo line is used to determine when the bike is traveling 'too fast'.
Unfortunately it is not possible to just cut the wire. This causes the ECU to go into a fault mode that not only turns on the Fuel Injection Warning light on the instrument cluster, which is very annoying, it also according to Kawasaki will cause the ECU to restrict the bike to an even slower speed than with it connected. This necessitates that the ECU be feed some kind of signal to keep from entering this fault mode.
The normal speedo signal is a 5 V square wave coming from a sensor that mounts to the case and sits over a gear on the output shaft and pulses every time a gear tooth goes by or 37 times per output shaft rotation. Combined with the final drive ratio and rear tire diameter it works out to approximately 1083 Hz (pulses per second) at 60 mph. That works out to 3357Hz at 186 mph.
It seemed to me that if the speedo signal was replaced with a 5V signal that never exceeded say 3000Hz that the ECU could be prevented from going into restriction mode. Obviously a 555 timer type circuit could do the job but I figured out a simpler method that does not require circuit board construction or tapping into the 12v power.
I finally came upon the idea of feeding the Tach signal, which is generated by the ECU, back into the ECU’s speed input. The tach signal is generated by the ECU to drive the Tachometer in the instrument cluster. It pulses twice per crank rotation. This translates to 6000 pulses per MINUTE at 3000 RPM or 100 Hz. This signal would be 383 Hz at engine redline of 11,500 rpm which is well below the 3387 Hz signal that would cause the ECU to go into speed restriction mode.
While the tach signal is perfect timing wise it is a 12V signal unlike the 5V speedo signal. This necessitates a simple level converter. The following schematic shows a simple 3 part circuit that can be constructed for a couple dollars. The speedo input to the ECU is pulled high to 5 V by an internal resistor. This means the converter circuit need only ground the input and can be a simple open collector transistor circuit.,,,,, Continued. cut n paste that link for the full page family.
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Michaels12
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted October 09, 2011 11:21 AM
You found him....He goes by Ridgeracer, although hes probably busy doing other things these days.
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KINGKWIK
Expert Class
9.36@ 149.23
Posts: 142
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posted October 10, 2011 07:23 AM
hey guys I had a 2004 12 and I put a NIKKO G-PAK on it. Its is an excellent product! Before the bike would go to an indicated 170mph pretty good and then get lazy till it reached the (INDICATED) not real 186. After the g_pak it wouldn't get lazy at high speeds and the needle would sail past the 186 then flip over to the 40mph mark and hover up and down. Now we all know the INDICATED isn't real, but what was cool was the fact that after reaching the 186, the bike would pull another 1000 to 1200 rpm....I tested the bike many times against my buddies zx10 and where it was always close before ( he weighs 170 and I weigh 235) after the pak I would pull away on top like he threw out an anchor.... It works well!
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If it has wheels or tits its bound to be trouble!!
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shenglu
Parking Attendant
Posts: 1
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posted November 08, 2011 05:05 PM
The difference is that they are trying to protect their investment from you and me, but Kawasaki is trying to protect our investment, from us to fully utilize and enjoy! Why get a higher power motorcycle, if you do not want full power?
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