Ozzy
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posted May 12, 2002 06:26 AM
Wheel weights?
I have a few questions about wheel weights.
I recently built a couple of devices to mount and balance my tires here at home instead of paying the stealership.
Where is a source to buy the oem type clip on weights? Is there somewhere other than a dealer to get this style that Kawi uses?
What about using the tape weight? At the Road races I have seen that the dunlop guys always put duct tape over the weight when they are done, is this neccessary when using the tape weights? My wheels are polished (stentman style)and don't really want a bunch of duct tape looking like hell on them.
Thanks, Ozzy.
  
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zx1012r
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posted May 12, 2002 04:26 PM
Stick on weights
I have been using stick on weights for twenty years and have never had one come off and I don't duct tape them. I put them in the center of the rim and paint them to match the wheel. Anal, I know!
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fish_antlers
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posted May 12, 2002 04:50 PM
Track rules require that weights are taped regardless of whether they are clipped on or the taped on type... My weights are still covered in duct tape as this was required by PIR for my last track day.
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lou_zx12r
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posted May 13, 2002 04:57 AM
wheel weights
I am doing the same thing. I mounted and balanced my own tires for both my zx12r & my wife's zx9r. I decided to use the stick-ons because the other type scratch the rim. But i was worried about them coming off. For several weeks now I have done a few highspeed runs and checking the weights afterwards. They show no sign of coming off. This past Saturday I ran with a couple of GSXR 1000's and saw above 200mph on the speedo a couple of times. Checked them and everything is fine. What I was told by some people at a tire shop is that the few minutes prep-time(cleaning)before appling make a world of diffrence. The other choice is to place them in the middle of the rim rather than the edge. I believe if you do this it may require a little more weight for a true balance (that's what I was told).
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2000 ZX12R 40shot
2012 ZX14R
2009 Concours 14
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ZXtra
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posted May 13, 2002 06:37 PM
Re: weights...
I too do my own. Tape weights are available from any good car tire dealer. I put mine in the middle. Centrifugal force keeps them on. -ZXtra
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Rocket J
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posted May 13, 2002 09:14 PM
By the way...
Just how did you build a spin balancer?
Rocket
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ZHooligan
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posted May 14, 2002 01:52 AM
Taping the weights is a throw back to the days of lousy glue! But every raceing organization that I know of requires it. Just like safety wiring your radiator cap??!!
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lou_zx12r
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posted May 14, 2002 04:01 AM
wheel balancer
Rocketj, I found the info on this page
http://216.239.39.100/search?q=cache:Ylh8ZdnBpSoC:www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tires/motorcycle-tires.htm+wheel+balancer&hl=en
there is link that I do not have access to anymore for some reason. Give it a try maybe you do. If not email me and I'll send them to you (I believe I have a copy at home)
louspag@hotmail.com
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2000 ZX12R 40shot
2012 ZX14R
2009 Concours 14
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Ozzy
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posted May 14, 2002 04:28 AM
 Edited By: Ozzy on 14 May 2002 05:31
Here are a couple of pics of the balancing stand that I built. The one side is adjustable in 1" increments to accommodate different width wheels. The steel bars are 5/8" drill steel.
The steel bars float in a groove similiar to a rifle barrel.
There are levelling legs at each corner of the base.
To use, adjust the width to just fit the wheel, so the axle will roll on the bars.
Next I set a level on the steel bars and adjust them to level.
Then place the wheel with its axle on the bars. The heavy side will roll to the bottom.
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EastBayDave
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posted May 14, 2002 05:31 AM
...very nicely done... 
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Rocket J
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Goes to water over a dummy!!!
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posted May 14, 2002 08:00 AM
Lou...
Didn't work for me either.
Rocket
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lou_zx12r
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posted May 14, 2002 10:25 AM
wheel balancing
Rocketj, I have the document at home. I'll bring it in and post it. The wheel balancer that OZZY is displaying seems good. The approach I took was to use a set of rollarblade wheel bearings ABEC5. They are low friction. I mounted them on a 45degree bracket permanently. I screw the brackets on to two sets of 2x4 stands and place the tire & it's axle on the bearings. They are so smooth & low friction that the slightlest weight difference turns the tire. Both seem like great alternatives to having the dealer do it and paying for it (if you have the time). I've got the process down to just under 2 hours each tire with the help of a friend. This past Saturday I went riding with a couple of GSXR 1000's, I had the zx12 just over the 200 on the speedo, Boy was it exciting Left them both behind.... bike was solid as can be.
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2000 ZX12R 40shot
2012 ZX14R
2009 Concours 14
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Rocket J
Zone Head
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posted May 15, 2002 01:43 AM
That brings up an interesting point...
Static vs. Dynamic balancing. Hmmm...
Rocket
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lou_zx12r
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posted May 16, 2002 05:33 AM
wheel balancer
well here is the article I came across. I used everything except the bearings & metal structure. I have a picture but don't know how to post it.
Materials:
4'- of cee purlin cut into 2-18" pieces and 1-12" piece
cee purlin is the metal used to put up steel buildings, garages-sheds-shops
6" purlin cut by the seller
4 - open race ball bearings, 10mm inner diameter, close
to 1" outer diameter not critical), I just bought generic cheap bearings that are 3/8" bolt would snugly fit through, open race only so that there is no drag from a shield or seal
4 -3/8" bolts about 1" long
8 - nuts to fit the bolts,
make sure that the head of the bolt will Touch only the inner race of the bearing, the nuts to do the same, if the heads or nuts are too big they will cause drag on the balls or cages
1- 17mm rod cut to 11 1/2"-12" long,
most BMWs and Japanese bikes use 17mm axles, a 5/8" rod will work in a pinch
The two upright pieces are welded to the bottom piece (the 12" piece) to form a large U.
Cut 2 slots about 3/8" wide in the center of each upright
at the top. Space them about 1" center to center and 1/2" deep, you could do this before welding and have a nicer matched pair by clamping the uprights together (back to back)and making the cuts through both pieces at the same
time (hindsight).
The bearings are attached in this order: bolt head-bearing-nut-upright-nut the photos make this a lot clearer,
Lay the rod on the bearings and if you are anal, you can use a bubble level to adjust the bearings side to side for parallel. If not, just give it the "hairy eyeball". If you lightly spin the rod, you will probably see it walk to one side or the other. As long as it takes 3-4 rotations
before it runs off the bearings, it is fine. You can use a rod that is longer than above and it will not "walk off" so fast. Fit the rod through your wheel and gently set it on the bearings.
Give it a light spin until it stops. (2-3 rotations)
It is amazing how little it takes to make this thing rotate. Mine is accurate to less than 1/4 ounce. Keep your bearings CLEAN! I keep all the bolts, nuts and bearings in a closable sandwich bag. Use a light oil (3in1, Marvel,etc.) on the bearings for rust proof and this thing will last forever.
NEED low friction bearings I used rollerblade ABEC 3 bearings and used the existing axle
I used wood to make the "U" frame and bolted the bearings onto a 90degree bracket. The brackets are screwed ontop of the wood "U" frame with 1" screws.
I did this for now so I wouldn't need to prefab a metal "U" frame. By the way the ABEC 3 bearings are very sensitive which makes a good balance.
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2000 ZX12R 40shot
2012 ZX14R
2009 Concours 14
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