shane661
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posted October 22, 2006 03:06 PM
My Maxton Prep Thread
Shane here, aka Warp12 on every other board....
As most of you guys know, I am prepping my bike for The Maxton Mile. The event is on 10/28-10/29. I thought I might start a thread and chronicle the process.
The adventure begins....
Step 1: Some Basic Tear Down
I need to install a Scott's steering damper, clean my filters, and install velocity stacks (that is just the start!). Since I have to drill the frame to install the damper, it was the perfect time to pull the filters and prepare to do the stacks. I also need to install a Bonneville box to remove the stock speed limiter. At the same time I wanted to inspect the stator connector, so the tail section had to be removed as well.
Here she sits after the tear down process:
I was really interested in seeing how dirty the airbox would be. The K&N's had not been touched in 14k miles! They were fairly easy to remove. I was happy to see no dirt mounds in the airbox, just some residue here and there:
The prior owner did a good job of installing the filters. They had some grease around all of the edges, which really sealed them up well. The filters weren't too bad either! Light still shined through, but it is obviously time for a cleaning/oiling.
So, how dirty would you expect the airbox to be PRIOR to the filters? Let's take a look:
Left side:
Right side:
Pretty clean! The bike has 20k miles on it. You might expect to see a little more grime, but the filtration and air flow seem to be very well designed.
Now, my final inspection for the evening was the stator connector. I had a feeling I might find something here, especially when I saw heat discoloration on the wire insulation. Sure enough, one of the connectors is cooked. It is the dark one on the left:
Anyway, that is it for tonight. Tomorrow will be a busy day. I will keep updating this thread as the prep continues.
  
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shane661
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posted October 22, 2006 03:07 PM
Ok, so today was a long day. I was not looking forward to installing the steering damper. The thought of drilling holes in the cast aluminum steering head was making me ill.
But, it had to be done. So, I just took my time. When it came time to drill the holes, I think I might have choked on my own hurl! You would be amazed at just how much aluminum can shoot out of those tiny little holes you drill! Even though I greased the bit up, as instructed, a lot of junk still wound up in the airbox. I spent about 1/2 an hour cleaning all of that out.
After that it was pretty smooth sailing. Total job time was about 2.5 hours, taking my time:
Next up was intake mods. I needed to remove the old velocity stacks and install the new ones. The old ones came out pretty easily. Unfortunately I could see that they didn't seal to the airbox worth a crap. Look at all the dirt below/underneath the top lip of the stacks!:
So, now that they are out, let's compare them to the Bear Short Stacks I am installing. I place the Bear Stack precisely on top of the stock one. Noticed the innermost 1/8" darkened lip you see? That is how much smaller in diameter the stock stacks are! They stockers do not equal the size of the throttle bodies:
Think these need a good cleaning?
Installing the Stacks took me about one hour. I found at first they did not want to mate down flushly with the airbox. I just took my time and slowly tightened them, let them sit a few minutes, and repeated the process. Pretty soon all was good. A good tip here is to look under the airbox for the protruding screws when you tighten them down. They should all poke down about equally, or you my not have the stack sitting properly flush on the bottom of the airbox.
So, cleaned & oiled filters (and greased edges), and velocity stacks, ready to go!:
The final thing I managed to squeeze in was installing the mirror block-offs:
At this point I had her together enough for a little ride, and I wanted to check for any vacuum leaks. Happy to report that all was well!
That's it for today!
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VincentHill
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posted October 22, 2006 03:31 PM
Disconnect the Airbox Temp Sensor to avoid damaging the Wire or the sensor.
The Air Box should have Oil Residue from the crank Case Vent. If the Filters are doing their Job there should not be any or very little Grit / Dirt!. Considering how dirty your Filters were, they did a great JOB! The Stock filters would have let a lot more grit in a shorter period of time.
I wish I had your problems!! I am considering taking the head back off of mine!!
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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harryzx-12
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posted October 22, 2006 04:41 PM
You better get busy! You got a lot of safety wiring to do. They said i had to have a metal chain guard that goes all the way to the front. They let me run with the plastic one the first time (last month) But if i ride my 12 again it has to have a metal one. Good luck with your prep work. I'll see you there. I'm going to ride my turbobusa.I'm planning on getting there friday about noon.
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"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways- Body thoroughly used up, totally worn out...Screaming "WOO HOO, What a Ride !!!"
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VincentHill
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posted October 22, 2006 04:59 PM
They never said anything to me about mine and it is CF
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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Wideout
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posted October 23, 2006 03:21 AM
Good job Shane and good luck to both of you.
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shane661
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posted October 23, 2006 04:30 AM
I know Shiphteey has run 200 mph there with his plastic guard. Does anyone have a definitive answer on this?
I'm not certain I can get one by then...who sells them?
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harryzx-12
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posted October 23, 2006 04:40 AM
They will let you run the first time. Don't know why they gave me shit about not having a metal chain guard. If vincent it's ok then i wouldn't worry about it. He has been there many more times than i have (i've only been once, last month)Tiger racing sells them (the metal chain guard). I'm making my own.
They even made an entry in my log book about not having a metal chain guard.I have a hans carbon fibre one. A friend is going to use my 12 to get his liscensing runs done so i will put the carbon fibre one on..
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"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways- Body thoroughly used up, totally worn out...Screaming "WOO HOO, What a Ride !!!"
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shane661
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posted October 23, 2006 04:45 AM
 Edited By: shane661 on 23 Oct 2006 05:51
Actually, if I can get the Tiger Racing one, I will go with that....
Another question....is a Back Protector a requirement? Hill mentioned it to me, but I forgot whether it is an option or a requirement to race.....
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harryzx-12
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posted October 23, 2006 05:12 AM
I'm pretty sure it is.Yep it is.Have you read this thread?
http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=60977.0
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"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways- Body thoroughly used up, totally worn out...Screaming "WOO HOO, What a Ride !!!"
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VincentHill
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posted October 23, 2006 06:23 AM
When I mentioned it and anything else (Knowing that you are already on Overload, Turst me it is a Must!
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psycho1122
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posted October 23, 2006 06:50 AM
shane661; I would take the time to find and seal all the LEAKS in the Ram-Air system while your in there! FREE HP!!
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You say PSYCHO like it's a BAD thing!!
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shane661
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posted October 23, 2006 09:14 AM
I took the day off to do some more work on the bike.
I have been equally dreading the install of the rear lowering links. Although the instructions tell you to place a jack under the rear shock, there just happens to be a grease fitting there. So, I had to figure a way to keep the bike secure.
After a little experimentation, I found a spot on the oil pan that I could support with my motorcycle jack. I also used larged zip ties to secure the swingarm to the rear stand:
I was able to jack up the Muzzy pipe enough to just get the bolt out for the bottom of the suspension link. I was able to easily, if slowly lower the bike approx 1 1/4", using my motorcycle jack. I decided to only go 1 1/4" because I normally run a short drag radial, and the front is about 1 1/2" lower than stock. I didn't want to upset the suspension geometry too much. But, anyway, back to the story....
So, I noticed the bike was levered up a little on the side where I had the pipe jacked up. At this point I no longer needed that jack, so I figured it was a good time to remove it.
Cue slow-motion.........Nooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!
Boy, these babies sure fall majestically. A tear came to my eye as I thought of what it must have been like for the survivors of the Titanic, as they watched the ship gracefully slide into the cold, murky depths.....
So, now with my 535 lb. baby laying on it's side...with no suspension links...what am I to do? It's time for a little upbeat thinking: "Zowie!!! Look at all the room I have to do the job now!!"
Looking good, links installed:
I was amazed at how easy it was to lift the bike back up. Of course, who knows what damage there might be, right? Well, it turned out that just one signal took the brunt. It popped the lense out (which popped back in), and damaged the rubber stalk. Other than that, nothing obvious at all. It was sitting mostly on the bar end, it seems.
So, finally, here it is...upright and lowered:
Anyway, I thought it was a good time to take a break and relax. Not sure how much more I will tackle today...
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shane661
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posted October 23, 2006 09:15 AM
quote:
shane661; I would take the time to find and seal all the LEAKS in the Ram-Air system while your in there! FREE HP!!
Could you be a little more specific, or provide a link? Thanks!
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VincentHill
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posted October 23, 2006 09:27 AM
Shane, I used Jack stands under the Foot aPeg Mounts on both sides. Once the bike was on the Swingarm spools I would then push the bike over to the left or right and put the stands under the Foot Pegs.
Again, I would love to have your problems compared to not even knowing what mine are  .
You do not have time to play with the Airbox right now. I actually removed the Over Flow tank cap and drilled a small Hole in the bottom 3/16 and tie it to the throttle Body or abything else near by.
When drilling the front Axle, it is easier to drill them from the inside out because the drill will start easier on the edge. Make sure you use the Gap in the Slider as where to locate the hole so the Safety wire will go in Nicely. Also drill up from the slot to have more room to run the wire, You are doing nicely!
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psycho1122
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posted October 23, 2006 12:17 PM
LINK?!?
No Link..........
I made a "cork" out of sealed foam for the Ram Air Duct. Fed a Tube through the middle and blew compressed air into the system.
Now you can hear and feel where the leaks are and seal them!
One thing is for sure! You will be amazed how many leaks there are!
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You say PSYCHO like it's a BAD thing!!
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shane661
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posted October 23, 2006 01:36 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 23 Oct 2006 14:38
The saga continues...
Ok, so I'm not going to let a little thing like my bike falling over stop me from continuing.
I wanted to tackle something pretty easy. Something I have done many times before. And avoid snags (yeah right!)!
So, I decided to remove the rear wheel, have the new tire mounted, replace the sprocket, and do some clean up.
I took the D208 200/50 (provided by V. Hill) up to the shop, along with my rear rim. I needed to swap out the Shinko Ultra Soft that I run for drag racing. They mounted it up on the spot, which was nice. I noticed the guy didn't change the .25 oz of weight on the rim...but maybe it just happened to balance that way. Hmmm.
Anyway, now for the action photo's....
Rear arm, etc. after clean-up:
Now, here is where things get interesting. It is time for me to remove this nice lightweight afam sprocket:
And replace it with the smaller, extra heavy, stocker:
Begin Rant Here:
These rims are Carrozzeria Stage 1 rims. When I first got them, it really stuck out that for $1380 they didn't even remotely match in color. I sent them back. They returned the same thing to me....and I had to pay shipping to them, which cost me $100.
Anyway, I decided I would deal with the rims, and get them fixed up later.
So, I mounted them about a month ago (even mis-matched). Today, when I removed them, plenty of rubber shavings poured out of the cush drive. There is no way this cush drive would hold up for a whole season with these rubber inserts.
So, here I am going to install the stock sprocket. I couldn't remember if the bolts were 45 or 50 lbs. on them (actually 43). I set the wrench to 50, after equally snugging everything in a criss-cross pattern. I reach one nut, and WELL BEFORE 50 lbs. it starts spinning! I back it out to be greeted by metal shavings and mangled threads. Now I could see if I went crazy, but I wasn't even close to 50 yet.
I used some light oil and ran a couple of good nuts up and down the stud. It didn't look great, but it took 40 lbs, and I loctited all of the sprocket carrier bolts.
So, in a nutshell....between the mismatched colors, the weak cush drive, and the suspect stud(s), I am not pleased with these wheels.
End Rant
So, after everything is installed, cleaned and adjusted, here it sits:
I am done for today....thank goodness!
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VincentHill
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posted October 23, 2006 01:46 PM
I have thought about the chain guard. Buy or take an 1 inch wide strip of Aluminum and POP Rivit it to the underside of the Chain guard with the tops of the rivets on the outside of the guard with a small 1/8 inch stcking out on both ends that you have a Metal guard.
I really do not want a strong guard and plan to bring this up! I do not want to lock the rear wheel at 200+ because the chain could not escape the Steel Guard and locked the wheel!
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shane661
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posted October 23, 2006 01:49 PM
I spoke with Joe Timney today. He said I will be ok with my stocker.
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drryanscarsella
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posted October 23, 2006 06:17 PM
Man Shane I have been doing the sam eto get ready. See you there
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shane661
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posted October 24, 2006 03:52 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 24 Oct 2006 16:57
Just a quick update. I only managed to get a couple of things done today, and I am pretty beat.
When I got home there was a new front tire sitting on my doorstep. A D208, 120/60/17. Why 60 series you ask? Well, I want the bike 1.5" lower up front, and I only feel comfortable raising the forks 1" in the triples. As most of you know, the fork legs on the 12R taper down pretty quickly.
So, I hot-footed it up to the garage and removed the front wheel. The guys at the shop were nice enough to change it on the spot (again)!
Now, you may be asking yourself..."Self, just how much of a difference is there between a 60 and 70 series front tire?" Well, behold:
120/70/17 on Racheal's Superhawk:
120/60/17 on my 12R:
Pretty big difference, huh? I was already running a 60 series drag radial up front, so I knew what to expect.
Well, after mounting the wheel back, I was pretty tired. But I wanted to address something that was soon going to bite me in the ass. Although the bike is lowered about 1.5" front and rear, I am still running the stock kickstand. Strapping the front end down at the strip really invites disaster as the bike barely will lean over on the stock stand.
Enter one billet aluminum adjustable stand:
So, now we go from this:
To this:
Finally, here she is...lowered and sitting properly on the new stand:
As always, there was a minor issue with the new stand (you can't get a wrench on the backside nut), but I'll figure something out.
So, that is it for today. I need to really get moving on things tomorrow....
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted October 24, 2006 07:06 PM
Very nice bike hope you get her moving at maxton!
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TFA 200MPH CLUB MEMBER!
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shane661
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posted October 25, 2006 04:28 PM
Ever notice how it's the little things that make you want to kill?
Oh wait, wrong thread...
Anyway. I figured to tackle the electrical projects on the bike tonight. Number one was installing the Vortex kill tether. I first took apart the stock kill switch to verify the proper wires to butcher, I mean, cut:
So, it's the red wire with white stripe...very clever. Anyhow, after that it is just a matter of removing the sheath from your stock wiring, adding in some crimp connectors, and arranging things in a tidy manner:
Now I have mention one thing. I hate using crimp connectors. All of these connections will be redone with solder and shrink tubing. I just don't have the time before the event.
Here it is, billet aluminum, installed, it works:
Okay, with that out of the way, it is time to move on to the Bonneville Box. This gets rid of the irritating 185 mph speed limiter, and cuts down on commuting time.
I am going to spare everyone the gory details of this operation. Even though it is only three wires, the instructions are somewhat vague about some of the coloration cues you will be looking for when you are sorting through the 100 wires going to your ECU:
Adding to the aggravation was that I snipped one of the tiny wires while removing the sheathing. Another crimp connection! ARRRRRGH!
But, finally, I got it done. Does it work? Who knows! It is shiny, and the bike still runs, so that is at least a small victory:
I rode the bike to work today to get an idea of how the chassis geometry would be after the lowering and changing the tires out. It felt a little twitchy at first. After all, I had been running heavy drag radials. I dialed the damper up a little and started getting used to the changes. It actually handled pretty nicely.
I put about 50 miles on the tires, and I tried to heat cycle them a bit. There was about a 20-25 mph wind, so I had to keep it relatively tame. But I still was able to check for stability issues to a point:
I'm happy to report that it was rock solid to a true 152, even with the strong, gusty wind.
I also checked out my gearing via gps. Knowing that I can turn 12k rpm indicated on the tach, I held the bike at 8k rpm for about a mile. The gps showed 126, which means I should have somewhere between 188-190 mph gearing...perfect!
That's it for tonight. Tomorrow is crunch time. I picked up the safety wire, and a tool today....
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blitzkrieg
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Road kill = Free lunch.
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posted October 25, 2006 05:08 PM
Edited By: blitzkrieg on 25 Oct 2006 18:11
Great thread ya got here Shane. 
Day late and a dollar short, and you've probably figured this out already, but I'll throw it out for posterity:
Whenever I am going to monkey with the rear suspension, I lift the front up with the Pitbull new stand and raise the rear via a padded bar (4 ft) under the rear subframe and jackstands raised up with a solid platform.
I feel your pain as a wheel-less bike falling over is my worst nightmare. I glad your's came out fairly unscathed.
Good luck at Maxton and be safe.
Edit: Oh yeah, one negative thing... LOL, Buy some Gunk Engine-Brite and clean that motor dude! It's filthy. 
____________
"BTW....You need to get a girlfriend who's last name isn't .jpg"
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shane661
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posted October 26, 2006 04:51 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 26 Oct 2006 17:54
Well, I got off work at 9 am, and stayed another hour to figure out a simple mounting system for a Mini-DV, on my bike:
I am going to add some additional anchoring tomorrow, and hopefully it will pass tech at Maxton.
I took the bike to 159, on gps, with camera installed. The bike was stable as a rock, which is what I was really looking for:
159 Real MPH
When I got home I decided to get the "#4" off of my windscreen. It has been on there for at least 3 months. They put it on at the dragstrip using shoe polish. Well, I have tried nearly everything to remove it, with no luck. So I decided to use a more powerful solvent. My thought was this: either it removes it, or it ruins the screen...
Well, it did both! I don't have a picture to post right now...but suffice it to say, spray carb cleaner will melt and discolor your factory screen...even if you leave it on for 10 seconds. But it does also remove shoe polish. :bahhaha:
So, after that dumbass move, I ordered a Puig double bubble. It will be here tomorrow. I'll get some pics up of the trashed stocker compared to the new one at some point.
Tomorrow is going to be a mad rush. I am taking my bolts to work in the morning to drill them on a press. I also have lots of hardened drill bits there.
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