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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: Baffled By Break-In Procedures NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
TRNorBRN6001


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posted June 06, 2006 12:05 PM        
Baffled By Break-In Procedures

Whats the scoop? Put your two cents in with a good reason / experience. I hear so many conflicting opinions! Here are just a few:

1. Break in light like factory says, reason: things are so tight that it needs time to
loosen up (Don't know what has to loosen up, hope the clearances don't get that
loose that fast that it might be out of spec.)

2. Break in real easy, reason: don't want to stress the bearings/ trans and with nickel
silicon coats you do not have to worry about the piston/rings seating as they do not.

3. Break in hard as it will help seat the rings and will not affect the bearings because
clearances should be some what of a constant.

4. Break it in hard because it just runs better (no rationale) and the piston/rings do not seat and bearings do not get hurt.


Second Part : what kind of oil dino/syn, weight, and when to change. Please include
reasons too please.

Thanks
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slug


Pro
Out in search of my mind...
Posts: 1433
posted June 06, 2006 02:57 PM        
None of the above?

Break in the engine under REASONABLE load.

I would pay attention to the manufacturer's RPM limitations.

If they are hard limits (Do not exceed xxxx RPM) then i would not exceed that limit, but would get there. Often. Under moderate throttle of course.

If they are soft limits (Avoid prolonged operation above xxxx RPM) then i would definitely not stay above the limit, but would go through it several times under MODERATE load.


Do not drone the break in. Vary load and speed and heat.

Don't do all the miles in one day.

You want to avoid full throttle operation. I've used the 2/3 rule on several engines and have had decent performance and longevity. (63000 miles on the oldest engine, 5000 track miles on the most recent)



With nikasil linings the rings WILL seat in. Else they wouldn't bother putting a crosshatch there.
They aren't ruined in 25miles like some websites have you believe. The crosshatch was still easily visible in the 63k engine last summer when i had to pull head and get a spark plug helicoiled. If i had needed to seat rings i would have done a hone to clear the glaze and that would have been it.

The track engine had an unknown number of miles on it, and within 150 miles the rings had seated without any leakage.



Oils: Use whatever came in the bike. If rebuilding i use castrol GTX 20w50.

First oil change at 50 miles. dump oil, put fresh in. Get all the loose trash from the build out. This goes for brand new or rebuilt.

Next change at 600 miles, new filter and oil. go to synthetic if you wish. Break in of major components should be complete by 600 miles.

(unless the owner's manual has a longer break in period, i would do the second oil change at the end of their period)

I use the castrol dino oil because it is a good oil, it's inexpensive (for the load, dump, reload) and works perfectly fine. I know people who run that even after break in. I prefer the feel of mobil1 in my bikes, they shift smoother with that oil.

some good reading on the subject

http://www.dezmo.com/breakin.html

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VincentHill


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posted June 06, 2006 03:23 PM        
Gary, actually there are two types of Break in problems. Factory new engines and "Rebuilt" Engines

Slug has good quotes for factory built engines. Just avoid Cruising. In my eyes, I see very imperfect parts that have very rough edges (Smooth to the eye but rough when looking in the Microscope)

As RPMS Increase and load increases the high spots wear and get hot and even swell. When you let off they cool and shrink. Each cycle smooths the parts more and there is less heating and swelling and a better fit and seal. SO throttle up easy to begin with and harder as the miles increase and use nothing but Dino Oil the cheapest Motorcycle possible

On a Rebuild, my thinking is that the Oil is just too good to get a good break in on rings. I use SA Rated ND30 for about 50 miles to get everything broken in then use the Cheap Bike Oil for about 500 miles. A lot of times you will see HP Go up on the Dynos this is not because they are cleaning out the Carbon only, they are actually breaking in the engine. I have had rebuilt engines that never broke in until I started this process.
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Y2KZX12R


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posted June 06, 2006 05:59 PM        
I think you two covered that one right on the money.
Nothing to add to that......
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Red1


Expert Class
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posted June 06, 2006 09:26 PM        Edited By: Red1 on 6 Jun 2006 22:27
Here's what Brock recommends ! http://www.brockracing.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=16&TopicID=688&PagePosition=1


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Ninjaman12R


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posted June 07, 2006 08:09 AM        
You guys are way too indepth for me. I've always used the "Go or blow" theory when it comes to break-in. Meaning that I'm gonna ride it like it normally is going to get ridden (read: thrashed ) and it will either go, or blow. Never had a motor scatter yet, no smokers either, but then again I am a stickler about maintaining my bikes / vehicles. I always figured with a new engine I'd rather it blow up while still under warranty.

I've heard all the arguments on this deal and take no sides, I'm sticking with the "Go or blow" theory. I really tried to go easy on the 12R, especially with all the hoopla about the extended break-in period. Before the bike had 125 miles on it I was banging the limiter and riding 2nd gear clutch wheelies. To me adhering to the proper break-in proceedure woulda been like having the woman of your dreams strip down naked in front of you and telling you to have your way with her, and you rolling over and going to sleep!!!! It was just too much fun to flog the thing.

Now the bike is 6 years old, approaching 20k on the odometer, and it runs better than ever. Swapped it over to full synthetic at 1000 miles and it has yet to smoke or use oil.
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big al


Novice Class
Posts: 52
posted June 07, 2006 09:40 AM        
I agree with most of what slug & vh have said except I would always use a good dino oil for break in, recently in one of the car mags they tried a couple fo different oils for break in including synth & the synth sealed the rings as well as the dino oil. But with changing oil at short intervals with a new engine synth would be a waste of $$.
As far as the break in procedure the main thing you never want to do is get the engine to hot with new pistons along with any other new parts(new engine or rebuilt). Multiple moderate heat cycles when pistons are fresh will give them a permanent set with less distortion & possible galling of cylinder walls. So the rings will seal better & for a much longer time.

After a half dozen or so heat cycles. I also agree with the theory of getting the engine up to temp doing 2 or 3 mid gear red line runs then drive the vehicle long enough to bring the heat out of said parts before parking it to let it cool.(same reason racers do a cool down lap) this helps seat the piston rings in with max cylinder pressure & also takes off any high spots in the plain bearings without damage.

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VincentHill


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posted June 07, 2006 11:26 AM        
quote:
"To me adhering to the proper break-in proceedure woulda been like having the woman of your dreams strip down naked in front of you and telling you to have your way with her, and you rolling over and going to sleep!!!! It was just too much fun to flog the thing."


Looking at the above statement makes me consider 2 different women! One that has never done anything and one that has done "Everything"

I do not think it would be a good idea (If you ever wanted to see her again) to try to do everything you could for and long and hard as you could with the one that had never done anything!! They need Break in also (After all, how do you think the other one got to where she is able to do everything??

So in Break in, Take it real easy at first and as things wear in then go Harder and HARDER Until it is broken in and then you can have your way
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