Y2KZX12R
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posted July 09, 2006 07:37 AM
But amps arnt the problem actually. Its voltage. The starter actually draws LESS amps on 24v than on 12v.
Or did you mean adding a second battery in the frame tray?
   
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VincentHill
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posted July 09, 2006 07:43 AM
quote:
But amps arnt the problem actually. Its voltage. The starter actually draws LESS amps on 24v than on 12v.
Or did you mean adding a second battery in the frame tray?
No you have it correct! My thinking is total aperage helps when it is "Cold" or does not start immediately! You can spin the starter a lot longer!
I am watching the extra Battery thing because I may have to figure out where to put another battery on my 12 because of the Large Amperage draw of the NX 120 SHot Solenoids!
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supra5677
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posted July 09, 2006 08:21 AM
Hey Jim:
I was referring primarily to the zx10r graph.. It pulls so strong and sweet up to 12,700.. As you said before the bigger the engine the smaller it thinks the cams are..IMHO the kawi .381 lift factory intake cam seems to be working..
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GUNNER
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posted July 09, 2006 09:34 AM
quote:
I am watching the extra Battery thing because I may have to figure out where to put another battery on my 12 because of the Large Amperage draw of the NX 120 SHot Solenoids!
Vince be very careful of this situation. Back in my drag race days we ran nitrous on one of the race bikes with great success UNTIL we added the second stage. What we forgot to take nto account was the amp draw of the second set of solenoids. OOPS! When the second system was activated the draw would slow down the fuel pump and drop the fuel pressure. You can fill in the blanks from there. The moral here is that solenoids draw a hell of a lot of juice off the system. If I were doing this again the solenoids would be on their own battery. A closed solenoid won't hurt anything but a fuel pump that suddenly decides to get LAZY is a bad day. A Hob switch aint a bad idea either.
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VincentHill
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posted July 09, 2006 12:53 PM
quote:
quote:
I am watching the extra Battery thing because I may have to figure out where to put another battery on my 12 because of the Large Amperage draw of the NX 120 SHot Solenoids!
Vince be very careful of this situation. Back in my drag race days we ran nitrous on one of the race bikes with great success UNTIL we added the second stage. What we forgot to take nto account was the amp draw of the second set of solenoids. OOPS! When the second system was activated the draw would slow down the fuel pump and drop the fuel pressure. You can fill in the blanks from there. The moral here is that solenoids draw a hell of a lot of juice off the system. If I were doing this again the solenoids would be on their own battery. A closed solenoid won't hurt anything but a fuel pump that suddenly decides to get LAZY is a bad day. A Hob switch aint a bad idea either.
Gunner, you and Ninja 12 are pretty sharp people I see! Actually I made a mistake in my post! I was referring to the 250 SHot NX Solenoid that takes 25 Amps at WOT vs the 150 shot that takes about 8 amps. I am only using "1" Stage period but may not be flowing enough NOS out of the 150 Solenoid which would cause me to need a larger one. I am no longer comfortable with the 250 NOS "BRAND" Solenoids after the one I had went south at the rate of 10 miles per day on a 100 mile trip! The decrease in performance was so slow that until it was almost not working did I figure it out. I have a 20 AMP Battery in the 12 right now and figure another 12 to 14 amps would be good insurance!
Thank you for your correct information and Y2K SOrry about the Hijack but it was someone trying to save my Motorcycles life!
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Y2KZX12R
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posted July 09, 2006 02:57 PM
Oh, I just wanted to point out one thing that I didnt say anything about yet.
The heat.
Basilally its never gone over the 10:00 segment. It cruises at the 9:00 segment and drops one segment off and gos to 8:00 a lot when cruising. Its got the stock fan and a heat blanket, wrapped pipe, water wetter and a 60/40 mix of distilled and antifreeze.
I dont have an oil temp guage so I dont know if there was an increase in oil temp or not.
But with the wrapped pipes the oil temps are not an issue i'm sure. There wrapped way past the oil pan.
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osti33
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posted July 09, 2006 06:34 PM
 Edited By: osti33 on 9 Jul 2006 19:37
Great news Jim!! Glad you got it dyno tuned and running so good for you.
This is a great thread from start to finish!! Thanks for sharing it all with us. 
Ryan
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Y2KZX12R
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posted July 10, 2006 02:11 PM
Yea it took a while to get the dam thing mapped. Its been raining like hell here every weekend and most of the week for months. It was really pissing me off to ride around with the driveability so crappy. I'm going to go run it on a few other dynos just for fun.
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VincentHill
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posted July 10, 2006 04:15 PM
quote:
Yea it took a while to get the dam thing mapped. Its been raining like hell here every weekend and most of the week for months. It was really pissing me off to ride around with the driveability so crappy. I'm going to go run it on a few other dynos just for fun.
Now you are talking and communicating. I think correct you will find closer to 200 SAE HP (Like 196 SAE and well over 200 STD but wait until the rain is over!
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Y2KZX12R
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posted August 09, 2006 06:13 PM
This graph compares brocks zx14 stock with my 1375 and my 12r stock and my 12r with all the "Y2K" mods back in summer of 2000.
Interesting....
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CrotchRocket
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posted August 09, 2006 06:46 PM
Nice Jim!!!
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ninja12
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posted August 09, 2006 08:18 PM
Can't help but to point out the stock zx14 stomps the stock zx12.
A zx14 with the Y2k mods would probably respond like the zx12 did.
I believe brock was very close to 200 with pipe and mapping, which would be
very close to a built zx12 with headwork.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted August 10, 2006 02:05 AM
Yea the 14 should pickup some power from the basic mods.
I didnt put in there a piped 12r vs a stock 14. they should be close.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted August 10, 2006 02:16 AM
this is brocks zx14 with a pipe and mr9 fuel etc. vs my 1375 vs my 12r with a pipe no cam timing.
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navpreet318
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posted August 10, 2006 06:06 AM
man that is a torque monster you got there....thats really good....hope its reliable.....and has a long life.....the way you've developed this kit.....i know its going to last.....
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supra5677
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posted August 10, 2006 08:19 AM
zx12r is superior motor pound for pound.. 6-7 more horsepower and 14 more foot pounds of torque imho is not impressive.. Jims Y2k modded stock makes the same or more power than a stock 14..
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entropy
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posted August 10, 2006 08:19 AM
Jim,
yr hp curve has a similar shape to mine, goes flat at 10K.
what cams do you have in it??? LC's?? (if you are willing to share)
I do understand if you are shy about sharing this stuff.
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supra5677
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posted August 10, 2006 08:33 AM
Jims cams are stock, as well as his rev limiter... If he went with 1 megacycle intake came .395 lift with 252 duration at .040.. and extended rev limiter he could unlock 10-15 more rwhp..
after i get back from Street Vibrations in Reno (september) Im going to go with a different intake cam and degree it 106/103.. My goal is 200 RWHP STD with stock displacement motor..
supra
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supra5677
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posted August 10, 2006 08:34 AM
Just a guess... based on the graph I would guess that the cams on the 14 and the 12 are identical in the area of lift and duration...
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Y2KZX12R
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posted August 10, 2006 08:50 AM
Nav, yea its got plenty of torqu for the street. I usually keep it between 7000 and 10,000 when riding with my buddies with thier 1000,s. Its an understatement to say "you need to be smooth" on corner exits at 8,000 rpms with this thing. This thing spins easily and can highside in the blink of an eye if you get ham fisted while leaned over.
Karl, yea i have stock cams in it at 105.5/102.5. I really want to try 103/101 but dont have any time to mess with it now.
Supra, i dont know the cam specs on the zx14. You could be right.
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supra5677
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posted August 10, 2006 08:57 AM
anybody measure the lift and duration on the zx14 cams yet... could be useful information
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osti33
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posted August 10, 2006 09:58 AM
Jim that torque graph is interesting. I'm actually surprised your 1375 didn't make a little more torque. When I was running a stock head and cams on my 1375 I was seeing about 115-116 lb ft of torque pretty regularly. My cam timing was a little different than yours. Maybe that is the difference. I'll see if I can dig up a dyno graph to post or email you.
Ryan
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entropy
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posted August 10, 2006 10:05 AM
quote:
Jims cams are stock, as well as his rev limiter... If he went with 1 megacycle intake came .395 lift with 252 duration at .040..supra
sounds like a Carpenter spec???
you vote for duration over lift for peak hp???
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ninja12
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posted August 10, 2006 10:32 AM
I'm really impressed with the 1375,
brock report his zx14 on mr9 at 192. in this thread
http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=23&TID=24810&set_time=1152188241
Don't know why we have 10 hp difference, with the same bike. Maybe different dynos.
Something is not adding up.
The tuned 12 was only about 5 hp off the 14 with mr9. Mr9 should be worth 5hp alone.
Where would a 1270, 1290 fit into the power scheme?
I really expected the 14 to be closer to the 1375 because it's only 23cc difference and new technology. You didn't build a super high compression motor.
Are you using dyno charts from different dynos?
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supra5677
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posted August 10, 2006 10:40 AM
not really.. The 14 has a bore 1.5 mm smaller than the 1375.. Also 13.5 to 1 compression vs 12.0 to 1. Also the 1375 revs higher than the 14. Also the 1375 comes with 46mm throttle bodies vs 44 mm.. All these things make a big difference. Bottom line a 1270 or 1287 would make few ponies less than a 1375.. The 1375 would of course make more torque..
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