psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
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posted March 18, 2006 09:57 AM
quote:
quote:
This is interesting.. When I called RC engineering they said that the stock zx12r injector flowed only 310cc.. Is this correct?
supra
mine are stock Y2K and AA they flowed 330 after cleaning. go figure. maybe it depends upon model year???
Hey Guys!
Don't mean to Highjack here. Re; the injectors.....
I have a second 2000 12 I bought for Parts. I just had the stock injectors cleaned and balanced by RC. They are the 330 cc type!!
Could there be a "Range" this particular application of injector needs to be in and the 330's are at the top of that range?!?
My Original set are 320's.
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supra5677
Pro
Posts: 1279
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posted March 18, 2006 03:30 PM
Maybe he's on to something.. There is a big difference between 310cc and 330cc
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supra5677
Pro
Posts: 1279
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posted March 18, 2006 03:31 PM
To Psycho: Are the part numbers on all of your injectors the same... FYI Hayabusa injectors only flow 280cc per minute....
Brian
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supra5677
Pro
Posts: 1279
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posted March 18, 2006 08:23 PM
Correction Hayabusa only flows 270cc per minute
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 19, 2006 06:18 PM
Fired it up yesterday. Sounds the same as before. I want my money back... 
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 19, 2006 06:26 PM
I dunno on the injectors... I didnt send them out.
I should send them out.
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted March 19, 2006 06:29 PM
Jim, you cant tell just by listening to it that it has more HorsePower  
I think you got Robbed...
Let us know how much more HP you got...
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 19, 2006 07:04 PM
I'll get it on the dyno right after the breakin. Its still 30 degrees here, and i need to ride this thing.
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psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
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posted March 20, 2006 07:08 AM
 Edited By: psycho1122 on 21 Mar 2006 06:18
Yes, Y2K...You should send them out before you map it!
I will help insure that you have 4 equal cylinders. One of my 330cc injectors flowed as low as 313 before cleaning.
RC charges $24.00 per injector. I had them back in less than a week.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 20, 2006 07:03 PM
Yea, I should.
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TRNorBRN6001
Needs a job
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posted March 21, 2006 07:17 AM
Y2KZX12R, sorry did not get back with ya sooner. It was a stock engine
and the head had never been apart along with the rest of the engine.
It realy did not do as much damage as I thought it would have, especially
seeing others that have let go. Right after it happened it must have gone right
back into the valve seat area kind of sideways as the head, cylinder, and piston
only had a few gack marks. Just bad enough and in the wrong places to cost more
than I would have liked.
Give us the scoop on the HP and Torque Charts when ya get it on the Dyno. A few
of them Dyno pulls should have that bike well broke in, ha,ha.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 23, 2006 07:55 PM
TRN, I wonder if the keepers are weak?
I'll get it on the dyno in a month or so. Its still freekin cold here in CT.
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mshep
Novice Class
Posts: 45
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posted March 24, 2006 11:40 AM
quote:
TRN, I wonder if the keepers are weak?
I'll get it on the dyno in a month or so. Its still freekin cold here in CT.
When the exhaust valve on my topend went out - the keepers were still holding the valve in. It just broke off at the stem, like some of the other's peoples on this site.
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted March 24, 2006 11:53 AM
I do believe JC said it was the same for mine.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 24, 2006 12:03 PM
So the stems are breaking ....? I wonder if a lean a/f ratio is over heating the valves and causing this?
Has anyone heard of an intake valve snaping off like this?
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mshep
Novice Class
Posts: 45
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posted March 24, 2006 12:54 PM
honestly I don't know. I think the spring pressure was off because I did have 1mm oversize intake & exhaust (stainless steel ferrara) because when we degreed the cams, it just didnt "feel" right when I was rolling the cams over. All the clearances were fine (piston to head). The valve snapped off at the stem. It's kinda scary. I had to go back with stock valve head, new block and new pistons. Pain in the a$$. We'll see what happens this year because I plan on spraying the bike also.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 24, 2006 01:23 PM
So the valve that snapped off wasnt a stock kawi valve?
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mshep
Novice Class
Posts: 45
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posted March 24, 2006 01:50 PM
quote:
So the valve that snapped off wasnt a stock kawi valve?
right - it was a stainless steel ferrara - local builder put the bigger valves in it. I ordered them from Star Racing - so I know they were ferrara stainless steel. It was a very strange incident. Major rebuild - never even raced it last year.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 24, 2006 05:03 PM
Wow, thats scarry.
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mshep
Novice Class
Posts: 45
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posted March 24, 2006 10:23 PM
quote:
Wow, thats scarry.
yeah - tell me about it. Talk about bad luck
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mshep
Novice Class
Posts: 45
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posted March 27, 2006 12:01 PM
please keep everyone updated with your progress. VERY GOOD THREAD
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 29, 2006 06:44 PM
Well, I took it out for a ride today, about 40 miles, and it ran good. It ran nice and cool. Temp guage was at 8:00 all the time. Air temps were about 65 and it was a low humidity day. Still cranks slow when hot but fine when cold or if it sits a while. The intake cam is at 105.5 and exhaust is 102.5
The torque is very impressive. Brought it up to 9000 several times and it was quite impressive. Anything other than smooth rolling into the throttle any time above 7000 rpm lofts the front wheel. Its very smooth and predictable power once above 3000 but the slow speed driveability and throttle abruptness below 3000 will have to be worked on.
I had most of it dialed out before this 1375 kit. Its a trait of the injection setup. The reason for the second set of throttle blades on the newer ones. But, I'll bet alot of it can be cleaned up and masked over with some mapping. It burned some serious fuel in the 40 miles I put on it. Towards the end of the ride it was getting WOT and 8000 rpms regularly. It burned about 2.5 gallons of fuel.
It felt like it was making more and more power untill the clutch started to slip when WOT as the tach swung past 9000. So I adjusted the clutch, it may have been the cable too tight.
I'll find out after i ride it again.
First impression is good. I'm likein it. Well worth the $1700 investment.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted March 29, 2006 10:30 PM
"Still cranks slow when hot ..."
with a 24V starting circuit it won't crank slow
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 30, 2006 04:42 AM
True 24v would work, but is it needed once the engine is broken in? Have you gone back to 12v to see if its still needed?
How did you get 24v? Two 12v in series or a 24v battery?
Are you retarding the timing at cranking speeds? That should help also.
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Y2KZX12R
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bossman12r
Zone Head
Posts: 513
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posted March 30, 2006 05:49 AM
Here is a question for you all, should you stroke a 12 if you are going to spray 80-120 shot?
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gen 4 zx10 is fast
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