jaws12r
Novice Class
Posts: 45
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posted February 25, 2006 09:17 AM
Hi guys i am also upgrading my 1270 to a 1375 kit, y2k is the fuel pump shown any difference frm the muzzys one is there anything i really need to look out for while building the1375?i also removed the counter balancer do i need to put it back wif the stroker crank? I also currently have in my baby the muzzys stacks for mod engines, block off plates,billiet clutch basket and kit, anyone got a really good cam timing for Muzzys race cams wif a 1375. Does muzzys have the manual cam chain tensioners or should i just stick to the stock ones. Sorry to trouble u guys
  
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BA
Pro
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posted February 25, 2006 08:38 PM
 Edited By: BA on 25 Feb 2006 20:38
Nicely done Jim!!!
I never did hear a good answer before now about what alternative's we had for fuel pumps. Great find there.
Good on ya!  lol!
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Y2KZX12R
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posted February 26, 2006 05:57 AM
The walbro gss242 (190lph) is the same pumpas the gss307(255lph) from the outside. They will interchange. the gss307($90) is about $10 more than the gss242($80).
From what ive been told Muzzy uses the gss307 in thier kit.
Theres no real rocks in the road on the 1375 kit. i would run the counter balancer. muzzys reccomends 105 103 for the 1375 engine. i havent seen any trouble with the factory cam chain tensioner so i would run it. Manuals can cause big trouble if you dont adjust them correctly.
Ba just passin it on for the board... now i have to get back to the beach and get another one of those umbrella drinks... later....
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jaws12r
Novice Class
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posted February 26, 2006 09:41 AM
Edited By: jaws12r on 26 Feb 2006 10:29
Thanks y2k for the info another thing dat i missed out sorry to trouble u guys again as i am getting the upgrade kit frm 1270 to 1375 do i really need to send my pistons back to muzzys? I have only less than 4000 miles on my current 1270, i e-mail muzzys and they said i do not have to, but i think i read somewhere dat the pistons need to be recut or something so do i or do i not ??and do the muzzys cam springs have any difference on them? I am not frm the states and from where i am from the feight charges dun come cheap so i am try not to waste too much on feight charges and time pls advise thanks
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted February 27, 2006 06:26 AM
I am an idiot, but you do not have to send your pistons to Muzzy. If you wanted to cut the compresion down, relieve the valve pockets, or trim the skirts then you could just find a realy good local machinest to do the job. I guess it all depends on what kind of set up you want and the thickness of the stroker plate too. I am also sure that there are places where you live that can stroke your crank. They just weld on it, regrind, micropolish, and bake (nitride). Muzzy's valve springs are a litttle heavier duty and even heavier on the wallet. I do not think you would realy need them unless you plan on cams or a touch of the juice. You may however want to invest in ss valves as regular stock ones seem to have been letting
go lately for a few people on this board. I believe Mad Mike sells them and might be able to help ya out on the duty. Just curious where abouts do you live?
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y2kzx12r
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posted February 27, 2006 05:30 PM
Yea there are several ways to lower compression. thats much easyier than raising it.
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gunner
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posted March 04, 2006 06:56 PM
BUMP!
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 05, 2006 06:23 AM
Ok, now that i'm back from vacation and have all the parts to assemble the engine I'll be doing the final assembly this week.
Jaws, I wouldnt run an aftermarket valve spring with stock valves. also I wouldnt run stock valve springs with aftermaret cams.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 06, 2006 06:32 PM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 11 Mar 2006 13:21
Bad news, I had previously checked the rod big ends with the original bearings in, to obtain the crank rod pin oil clearances and all was ok. Oil clearances were ok. But silly me, I didnt check the rod big ends for concentricity without the bearings in and with the new rod bolts and nuts. Well I did that tonight and they are no good. They have .0006" (.0012" total)stagger at the cap parting line with the new bolts. This would cause pinching with new bearings under heavy load and most likely spin a bearing and possably chuck a rod at some point.
I highly recomend to anyone taking the rods out of the engine to check this. Its not hard or expensive to check and fix now.
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Jason9R
Novice Class
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posted March 06, 2006 09:04 PM
You use a ID bore gage to figure that? How do you remedy this?
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 07, 2006 02:43 AM
Yes I used a 3 point ID bore guage on a rod resizing machine. But any ID bore guage can be used.
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worm~hole
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posted March 07, 2006 08:26 PM
...this thing'll kick the 14's ass, huh?....and look better doin', too, huh?
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gunner
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posted March 07, 2006 08:44 PM
quote:
...this thing'll kick the 14's ass, huh?....and look better doin', too, huh?
You got that shit right Worm
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gunner
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posted March 07, 2006 08:45 PM
Compared to my 12R my 10R looks like it's been beat with an ugly stick! The 12 is the best looker of all times
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worm~hole
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posted March 08, 2006 12:08 PM
....particularly the green 2000...just add '02 mirrors, Muzzy exhaust, a ZeroGravity doublebubble, and take off the mudflap
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who would do us harm.”
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted March 08, 2006 12:37 PM
02 mirrors? are they different than 00-01? I like my 00's
along with that big spout in the front of my green machine!
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supra5677
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posted March 08, 2006 12:48 PM
Actually a 1270, 1290, 1317, 1361, and 1375 will all kick the zx14's but even without a pipe. .
mmmmmmmm
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jaws12r
Novice Class
Posts: 45
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posted March 09, 2006 07:06 AM
quote:
I am an idiot, but you do not have to send your pistons to Muzzy. If you wanted to cut the compresion down, relieve the valve pockets, or trim the skirts then you could just find a realy good local machinest to do the job. I guess it all depends on what kind of set up you want and the thickness of the stroker plate too. I am also sure that there are places where you live that can stroke your crank. They just weld on it, regrind, micropolish, and bake (nitride). Muzzy's valve springs are a litttle heavier duty and even heavier on the wallet. I do not think you would realy need them unless you plan on cams or a touch of the juice. You may however want to invest in ss valves as regular stock ones seem to have been letting
go lately for a few people on this board. I believe Mad Mike sells them and might be able to help ya out on the duty. Just curious where abouts do you live?
Just got my crashed PC up again, okie nope I stay in Sunny Singapore and trust me there are not much ppl who stroke their engines here so dun think there are any ppl here who do it.Anyway i have already got the Muzzy race cams and my stroker crank frm Muzzys is also here and also wats the diff wif the stock and after market valves? i dun see much ppl changing them unless they are looking at oversized valves
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jaws12r
Novice Class
Posts: 45
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posted March 09, 2006 07:19 AM
quote:
Bad news, I had previously checked the rod big ends with the original bearings in, to obtain the crank rod pin oil clearances and all was ok. Oil clearances were ok. But silly me, I didnt check the rod big ends for concentricity without the bearings in and with the new rod bolts and nuts. Well I did that tonight and they are no good. They have .0006" (.0012" total)stagger at the cap parting line with the new bolts. This would cause pinching under heavy load and most likely spin a bearing and possably chuck a rod at some point.
I highly recomend to anyone taking the rods out of the engine to check this. Its not hard or expensive to check and fix now.
i really need to know this y2k do i new to get NEW rod bolts and nuts ?? or can i reuse them? and also if the rods stagger if dat is wat u are toking about wat do i do ? change bigger sized bearings or change the rods??? how do i rectify the fault? please advise.. sorry to trouble i am not really much of a hands on type of guy so pics to explain will be much apprciated thanks a million
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted March 09, 2006 07:22 AM
Some people have had the valve end come off the stem where they have been mated
especially on the exhaust side so they go with aftermarket stock size SS valves. Not
many people opt for big valve head.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 09, 2006 09:24 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 11 Mar 2006 13:03
If your running bigger cams and stronger springs then stainless valves are a must. sooner or later it seems they will let go. The main difference is material. There stronger. Pluss sometimes the shape is different and so they can flow more air.
The book says to replace the rod bolts and nuts. they give a stretch spec for new and used but then they say to replace them. the bolts and nuts are about $60
If you find a machine shop that can resize rods then they can check the rods and also do the whole job for you.
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted March 09, 2006 11:51 AM
My stock exhaust valve went on stock cams and stock engine. It did not mess things up to bad, but just bad enough. If ya got it down might as well do it, cuz it sure ain't purty if one decides to let go. You'll probably have to buy a head, pistons, and maybe cylinder block.
If your going with a stroker and plan on spraying any, I would pick up some after maket rods as I have seen them let go on the pin end with much less HP than what most people say.
Barrington Customs out of CA does a nice resize job on rods, but do not waste the money
doing this for stockers.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 09, 2006 04:38 PM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 9 Mar 2006 16:39
TRN, was the head ever apart before the valve let go?
I'm wondering if the keepers are failing?
I'll ask Bill what he would charge to 4 rods. I'm thinking $80 ??? It doesnt take real long to do.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 18, 2006 05:24 AM
Some assembly notes: The stock rods clear the starter gear by .015". Very close.
The front chain guide just makes the stretch to the mounting bolts. A little tight but not a problem.
The deck height is a very safe .040" If one wanted more compression one shim could be removed (.010") and gain about .6 of a point.
The change in cam timing from the spacers under the block is 5 degrees advanced for both cams. So adjustable sprockets is a must to get the cams back to proper timing.
The cams are set to 105.5/102.5.
The engine should be going back in the bike today.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted March 18, 2006 05:35 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 18 Mar 2006 05:49
Oh, the labor to have the 4 rods magnafluxed and resized with new bolts its $100 and you supply the new bolts and nuts when you send the rods. Turnaround time is 1 day.
Carlquist Compitition Engines, Oakville CT.
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