Y2KZX12R
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posted January 20, 2006 05:01 AM
Ok, window size is .680" high .950"wide. with a 1/4" radius at the top corners of the window. All three sides of the window are are fully radiused 1/8".
The 1/4" top corner radius is important for taking the load from the piston skirt due to the extra stroke. The 1/8" wall radius is important for smooth flow.
   
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Phantom Menace
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posted January 20, 2006 05:08 AM
quote:
Y2
Uh, yeah. Somebody has.
Phantom- Do NOT touch the surface on the stock rods. They are extremely reliable in their stock form. Polshing them alters the case hardness and can induce stresses actually making them less reliable. Sometimes the hardest thing is to leave well enough alone. The stock Kawasaki rods are incredibly good.
Thank you very much, I'll have to pass this information on to my tuner who recommended it.
How do you feel about simply balancing them?
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dougmeyer
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posted January 20, 2006 05:41 AM
Sure balanceing's good. Won't take much. though.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 20, 2006 05:45 AM
Next...... the exhaust ports and chamber rework. How many of you guys have noticed how the stock exhaust ports were flaired in to match the primairy pipe size of the stock exhaust system?
Well on a stock 12r setup this worked well because the exhaust port flows 106.5 cfm @ .294" @ 10" and thats 87.5% of the intakes 121.7 cfm @ .310" @10" flow.
But the aftermarket exhaust with its larger primary tubes leaves a large lip that causes turbulance. I'll be widening the floor of the exhaust port and opening up the top port radius to match the header. It would be nice to have a tapered primairy tube for the first 4-5 inches to keep the exhaust velocity up. This would help scavenge the cylinder and allow the exhaust valve to be more retarded. But the flow increase from modifying the port should help.
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GUNNER
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posted January 20, 2006 04:14 PM
Jim you're the MAN for sharing your information with us all.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 21, 2006 05:30 AM
Not a problem. Its noit like i'm a competitive drag racer and need to keep secrets.
One note on the window size: I should have been more clear on that. the .680" height includes the radius of the window. So you would need to be slightly smaller so you have room to radius the cut. So mill to about .650" or so and then hand blend for air flow.
The width of .950" is a "cut to" and then blend the radius.
Its hard to describe this.
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trenace
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posted January 21, 2006 05:52 PM
 Edited By: trenace on 21 Jan 2006 19:20
Outstanding info and help! VERY much appreciated.
I'll be seeing if Millenium can do this when sending them the block, or if not who can do it for me. From accounts of other engines this is a mod that's worth several hp at high rpm, which was what had me interested but I had no info on how to do it. Kudos on being, so far as we know, the first to do it on the 12 and definitely the first to share!
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 22, 2006 05:10 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 24 Jan 2006 02:54
Heres a quick picture of the general window roughly marked out.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 22, 2006 05:16 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 11 Feb 2006 12:03
Check those forks while your in there. My 1st gear fork is shot from powershifting the bike so much.
Some chamber work from 01 when the factory pistons were milled and the stock block shim removed.
fly cutting the intake valve reliefs.
finished, .015" deeper valve reliefs.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 22, 2006 05:41 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 24 Jan 2006 15:40
Here you can see the scribed line marking the new cylinder bore. This area around the intake valve in black, can now be opened up for more flow and cut back to the cylinder around the valve only.
The chambers were right to the bore on the stock 12r so this wasnt possable. With the stock bore the sharp lip shrouding the intake valves were laid back away from the intake valve. This was worth a small amount of flow on the flow bench, more so at lower and medium valve lifts. It was a compromise between compression and flow last time. Now with 13.5 to 1 compression isnt as much an issue so the lip "shroud" will be cut back more this time along with moving the chamber out to the cylinder wall next to the intake valve.
A better picture...
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krexken
Zone Head
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posted January 23, 2006 05:20 PM
What's the minumum piston to head clearance you'd run and what was yours at with the shim removed? Thanks
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 23, 2006 05:46 PM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 23 Jan 2006 17:56
From the factory it was...
deck height .018"
head gasket .023"
piston to head .041"
block shim .010"
intake to piston .022"
exhaust to piston .072"
Intake cam was at 102.5 (advanced 1.5)
exhaust cam was 101 (retarded 1)
It made 179 hp and 99 ft lbs
then I pulled the block shim, milled the pistons .015", advanced the intake cam to 102 and exhaust to 101, cleaned up the ports just a little, combustion chamber mods around intake valve.
So it was .031" piston to head after the shim removal.
intake valve to piston was now .026"
A quick mockup of the 1375 this weekend gave me .040". These forged pistons are nice but they need to run looser than the factory pistons. They get hot and then they are sized right. So for this reason you shouldnt get to crazy on squish with forged pistons.
What pistons are you running?
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 23, 2006 05:48 PM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 23 Jan 2006 17:56
Basically, the port will get widened, out to the edge of the black
on the sides and the roof about a half inch into the port.
Leave the port floor alone. Use the copper gasket as a template.
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entropy
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posted January 23, 2006 11:10 PM
VERY cool thread!
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buddy
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posted January 24, 2006 06:23 AM
Edited By: buddy on 24 Jan 2006 06:24
I just got back in town and read this thread. There are some questions here about stock rods. I might well be the guy TRN was talking about. I had new stock rods in a 1427 that was making about 194 hp. No. 4 rod broke off just below the top end at about 100 MPH.
I was amazed at the destruction and danger that takes place under that situation. I have a new motor now that has after market rods. I wouldn't even consider building a new motor with stock rods.
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supra5677
Pro
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posted January 24, 2006 10:30 AM
Sweet project, great info, good pics!!
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bossman12r
Zone Head
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posted January 24, 2006 01:30 PM
My 1320 broke the rod on the #4 also about 1 inch above the rod jurnel. Took out the cases, crank, intake cam, 2 valves, cam tray and i have not even looked in the oil pan yet 
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gen 4 zx10 is fast
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 24, 2006 05:50 PM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 24 Jan 2006 17:51
ouch. damn.
Do either one of you two still have the rod pieces?
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 24, 2006 05:56 PM
The black area is where the chamber will be cut back to the cylinder bore. Also the factory shrouding will be completely removed.
I'll have finished pics.
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buddy
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posted January 24, 2006 06:56 PM
I kept the pieces for a while, then trashed them. When the rod broke, just below the wrist pin, it was long enough to continue around and bust a hole in the front of the cases large enough to push a grapefruit through. It continued around and polked a hole in the back of the case right above the timing gear, continued up tearing through the cylinder block up into the area where the piston travels then into the piston sleve, which was at the bottom of it's travel.
At some point, about 1/2 inch of the end of the rod then broke off and lodged behind the brand new billet clutch basket, tearing chunks out of it and chewing up nearby oil gears and such. The clutch basket was forced to stop suddenly causeing the transmission gears that were meshed to break all their teeth off. Of course, the rear wheel locked up and oil spilled out all over me and the wheel, causeing the bike to slide for over 1/8th of a mile, with the back wheel trying to pass the front wheel. I was still going 27mph when I went through the 1/4 mile traps.
A lot of you long time racers probably know about what happens when an engine locks up for some reason, so this wordy post is probably not helpful to you. It may. however, help some one who, for the first time, is contemplating building a motor, make good decisions about not scrimping on crucial parts.
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted January 25, 2006 01:37 PM
Yeah, that was some bad news. Who could have imagined the rod
snapping just like that. Not many people could have walked away
from that let alone riding it out.
Anybody have experience and/or use aftermarket rods other
than H beam Carillo?
1. Falicon?
2. Crowler?
3. A beam Carillo?
4. Other?
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TFA 200MPH CLUB MEMBER!
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 28, 2006 11:56 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 28 Jan 2006 12:55
The finished block. final window size is .650"deep amd .940"wide. Then hand rounded.
The nicasil plating is excelent. Barely any chipping and the chipping that did happen was tiny tiny chips.
Not that it even mattered because it was getting blended on the edges anyway.
The total window area is almost double now.
The block window has this rowboat shape \_______/ from the factory.
This is BDC. I suppose you could go a little more on the window height. But who knows, maybe it will get a billet crank with more stroke some day.
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entropy
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posted January 29, 2006 12:39 PM
Very, VERY cool stuff, please keep this info coming!!!!!!!
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dougmeyer
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posted January 30, 2006 03:39 PM
Y2, Why did you window between 2&3?
Buddy and TRN - What did the big end look like? Was it heated and blue with the bearing pounded out or was the bearing basically undamaged and clean?
Doug
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Y2KZX12R
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posted January 30, 2006 04:45 PM
Well with 2 and 3 moving together there really wont be much if any flow thru that window so figured it wouldnt make any difference performance wise, and, I did it on a bridgeport with a table.
Doug, have you ever used the header to evacuate the crankcase on a bike?
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