blubyu
Expert Class
Posts: 209
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posted November 23, 2005 10:32 AM
I wanna do it my own install
OK..I've mulled it over long enough and I've decided to operate on my 02 12 and install my own 1270/1287/1290 kit myself. I'm no tuner but I'm handy with a wrench and can follow instructions well. I have to do this, in case I get actively involved in racing, I have to know the basics. I was looking at the Holeshot Perfomance sight and Dale offers a couple instructional videos. In addition, one of the links on the sight goes over a top end install in detail, photos, points to look out for...
Has anyone done a 12 and could shoot me some advice, photos etc....
  
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
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posted November 23, 2005 11:03 AM
Take lots of pics and label accordingly.
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12r1
Expert Class
Posts: 390
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posted November 23, 2005 11:24 AM
I did an Eliminator years ago, vary straightforward.If you have a shop manual,and clean place to work, you'll be fine. Since it was my first, I took extra time/ care not to ding/ nick anything. If something was going together to tight, etc. I went back to the book to see what was wrong.When you take the cams out, do so slowly as not to damage the bearing surfaces. A ring compressor will help to slide the cylinder block back down over the pistons/ rings. Won't tell ya how I did it.....
Oh yeah, make sure you line up the gaps in all the rings too. The oil smoke will keep the bugs away. LOL
jeff
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted November 23, 2005 12:03 PM
I lined up the ignition advancer to 1/4 timing mark and then marked cam gears and chain pins to align up on reinstall.The pistons,I used a clean 1"x1"x24" piece of stock to steady the pistons by turning crank until all are pressed against stock bar.It is critical to have your rings at 12:00 and 6:00.Doing this allowed me to rock the cylinder back and forth slightly to work them onto the pistons(no ring compressors).good luck!
____________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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osti33
Needs a job
Posts: 2973
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posted November 23, 2005 01:08 PM
quote:
Take lots of pics and label accordingly.
Agreed!! This is VERY important! Also get a service manual and follow it to the letter. You will be fine.
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
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posted November 23, 2005 02:39 PM
give me a call if I can help...
shoot me a PM and I can send you my cell #...
MM
____________
200-MPH CLUB MEMBER!
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted November 23, 2005 04:44 PM
Like I said elsewhere, on a scale of 1 to 10 for degree of Difficulty, this is a "10". Between removing the engine that is a 4. getting the rings into the cylinders and not scratching anything that is a 12. Getting the cam right is a 9. Good Luck and remember my suggestion to use ND 30 SAE "A" grade oil to assemble the pistons and rings and for the first 50 miles then the cheapest regular Motorcycle Oil possible to break it in.
____________
Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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scooter trash
Expert Class
Posts: 407
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posted November 23, 2005 06:16 PM
Do you not have a trusted knowledgable guy available to mentor you through this?
Videos are fine, but there are lots of things that can get really broke here and most are pretty expensive to fix. 
For instance I would ask have you ever replaced the shims on a 12 or similar? If not you might want to think twice before you dive in head first.
Just my .02
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GUNNER
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted November 23, 2005 10:26 PM
 Edited By: GUNNER on 23 Nov 2005 22:28
Some very worth while advise that hasn't been given to you is GET A GOOD ENGINE STAND!! One that will allow you to rotate the motor upside down and at different angles. It makes the job tons easier just being able to walk all around the motor while you're putting it together. Being able to spin it upside down for shit like the oil pan is super nice. Likewise for degreeing the cams etc. It can be done on the bench, but trust me it's the hard way and not the cleanest way either. TWO WORDS "Engine Stand" By the way you'll probably have to have someone weld you up the adpt for the motor you're working on. Mine is home made.
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blubyu
Expert Class
Posts: 209
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posted November 25, 2005 09:39 AM
Guys..
Thanks for the input...I'm off work for the next 1-2 months. I plan to go down to one of the shops in my area an volunteer and help him out. He does a lot of racing bikes (road race) so I plan to get my hands dirty with him when he does rebuilds and degree cams. Where can I get a good motor stand?
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GUNNER
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted November 25, 2005 10:13 AM
You can buy one for Auto use and get yourself an adpt plate made to fit your motorcycle motor. Even a half ass car stand will make a pretty good bike motor stand. Just have a plate welded up to fit the rear mounting points, Upper and lower. A stand is also great when degreeing cams is done. It will allow you to use the biggest degree wheel that you can find and afford. That's another good piece of info. Buy yourself the BIGGEST wheel possible and adpt it to work on the bike crank. You can't get one that's too big! This will give you the largest spaces between the marks as possible. That's something you'll understand when you start tweeking your cams. Sometimes on the small wheels you'll never see it move, but when you run your numbers you'll find it damn sure did move.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted November 25, 2005 04:30 PM
You have the Correct Fears. Rings are a pain and Muzzy's are the hardest I have heard of. I am buying to JC Whitney Ring COmpressors you saw in the Dragbike Zone. If you do the Job, you know I am not that far away and will watch (Help if necessary) to get the cylinder back on and make sure all of the "0" Rings and Oil Lines are in place before the head goes back on. I would also suggest getting the APE Studs.
____________
Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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blubyu
Expert Class
Posts: 209
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posted November 25, 2005 08:30 PM
Engine rebuild
Vince,
Thanks for the offer, I will definitely take you up on that if needed. I'm over here on the eastern shore..about 8 miles past the bay bridge, just past kent island. My beer stays cold and my grill stays hot year round so if you do come out...come hungry and thirsty...  We also have some great seafood restaurants..my treat of course
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deathpulse
Pro
Posts: 1688
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posted November 25, 2005 09:40 PM
hey blu - if you have the time, maybe you should take pix and post them with some notes underneath. For novice wrenches like myself it would be cool to learn, and maybe some of the pros on this thread can watch and give advice (like - hey you about to do x - have you though of...)
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blubyu
Expert Class
Posts: 209
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posted November 25, 2005 09:50 PM
deathpulse,
I was contemplating the best way to do that...I thought about making a webpage and then just post when I updated it ...or I may just post them on here. Rest assured that it will be posted..in depth and I'll let everyone know where.
Blu
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lonniemac
Expert Class
Posts: 225
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posted November 25, 2005 10:01 PM
i did my 1270 without ever removing the motor from the bike. the only problem was i had to have a friend help me with sliding the block over the pistons without damaging the rings. if you r a mechanic then there is a lot u know. if not i suggest the muzzy 1270 because they setup everything and put everything in kit form that u need. head gasket and all. the rings are already gapped, the pistons drop in designated holes. makes the job a lot easier. it is always best to check everything with the clearances again though. but first if u dont have one get a shop manual and read it first. the most difficult part i encountered was degreeing the cams with the motor in. that was tough. had to fabricate a few things 4 that one.
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