canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted March 27, 2004 04:55 PM
Alternator rotor removal
Does anyone have a trick for removing the alternator rotor without the proper Kawi tool? I am pulling my engine down and went to the local dealer to see if they would rent me their puller. They "said" they didn't have one, and the parts guys I talked to suggested that they probably wouldn't let it out of their site, no matter what the situation (deposit, etc). I understand not wanting to loan tools, but I was willing to pre-pay the value of the tool ($150) and then get my deposit back on returning the tool. I have a three jaw puller, but things are tight in behind the rotor, and I don't think I will be able to grind off enough material from the jaws of the puller to allow them to slip in behind the rotor AND have enough meat left to have the strength to pull the rotor from the crankshaft taper. This is just one more reason to buy a lathe (like I need any more reasons).
  
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Ra12r
Zone Head
Posts: 919
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posted March 27, 2004 07:03 PM
Use a "jerking" tool. This is a tool used in autobody repair that has a 8-15 pound weight that slides down a steel bar. At one end is a chuck like on a drill to insert a thread screw or bolt of your choosing and the other end is a stop for the weight to hit. Screw it into the threads and "jerk" off the wheel.
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted March 27, 2004 07:19 PM
You're talking about a slide hammer. Unfortunately, there is nothing to thread into. There is a 10mm centre bolt, but that is used to hold the rotor on and the threads are in the centre of the end of the crankshaft. You could pound away all day with a slide hammer, and do nothing except maybe rip the threads out of the crank. I also have a real issue with that shock doing horrible things to the crank and the thrust bearings. There is a large external thread on the mounting flange of the rotor (where the rotor presses onto the taper of the crank), and IF I can find a large nut (like around 30mm) to thread onto those external threads, then I will have no problems making a puller. This is why a lathe would be handy.....all I would have to do is measure the thread pitch and diameter and cut those theads into the inside surface of a thick wall tube, weld an end cap on the other end of the tube, and thread the very centre of the end cap. Insert a long bolt as a forcing screw, and that rotor will come off no problem. BUT I don't have a lathe.....
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
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posted March 27, 2004 07:26 PM
I think Johnnycheese had this dilemma a few weeks ago. I suggest PM'ing him or Entrophy to see what he came up with.
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted March 27, 2004 09:45 PM
Thanks, I'll give that a try in the AM
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Ra12r
Zone Head
Posts: 919
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posted March 28, 2004 05:41 AM
Oh yeah,,,,,hehehehe Find the bolt which should be at autozone or Home depot, don't remember the size though....then put a bigger washer behind it so you can use your puller.
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All must bow to the "Ra Supremecy"...
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted March 28, 2004 06:58 AM
I have dealt with these type of problems all my life and have a Boat load of special pullers. I found that "Usually the cost of the pullers is not out rages and bought them if it was for a race engine. For a street engine, I would make a deal with my dealer to Borrow the tool "Over Night" and return it the next day. I would leave a deposit the amount of the tool and remove it over night. The reason for buying the tool if I am racing the bike is I would be taking the engine apart a lot more times!
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted March 28, 2004 07:19 AM
Yeah, I actually considered buying the puller, but in typical dealer fashion they would have to order it and it will take a week to come in. I tried to make the deal for the rental or loan of the tool, but they were having none of that. I think I'm just going to build one. I will measure the thread pitch and diameter and see if a big freaking nut is available. If so, I am in business.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted March 28, 2004 01:08 PM
If the Dealer I bought my bike from said "No" to me, then I would have a New Dealer for the Next Bike. I do not even do business with the dealer I bought the Bike from and they still know better. I am changing Stators this weekend and they knew better than to ask for the bike. Of course they get paid for work they do not do, but at least this, The Customer is happy with the Mechanic's Works! 
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted March 28, 2004 02:53 PM
Unfortunately, I didn't buy the bike from them. I did, however, buy about $700 in parts from them that day. Oh well, I will figure it out and continue to be free of them.
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
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posted March 28, 2004 03:32 PM
I took my crank to the dealer and he just pulled it off took him 5 min.! why do you need to take it off anyway?? there is nothing behind there to get to?
Mad Mike
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted March 28, 2004 07:46 PM
I am just trying to be thorough with my engine teardown. Since I cannot get the rotor off without ridiculous hassle, I will leave it on.
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redelk
Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
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posted March 29, 2004 07:54 AM
I'm assuming your talking about what KHI calls the flywheel, right? When I replaced the stator and regulator, I went to AutoZone and bought a three claw puller for less than $30. Worked find for me.
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted March 29, 2004 04:45 PM
Yeah,the part I'm pulling off is known as the Flywheel. Was the puller you bought fairly small? I'm assuming that you inserted the hooks of the puller in through 3 of the 6 holes in the flywheel and pulled that way. I have a good sized three jaw puller and it may just be that it is too big....perhaps a smaller unit will slip in no problem.
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