Megabyte
Pro
Posts: 1047
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posted March 10, 2004 10:27 AM
Front and Rear Wheel Rotating resistance
I realize this may be difficult to answer, but what is a good way to judge if your Front and Rear Wheel Rotating resistance is within specs?
Thanks,
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lou_zx12r
Expert Class
One Day at a Time
Posts: 196
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posted March 10, 2004 07:02 PM
wouldn't you just replace the bearings every so often? I'm approaching 18K miles and plan on replacing wheel bearings next tire change. Or am I not understanding the question? somethings just go over my head!
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2000 ZX12R 40shot
2012 ZX14R
2009 Concours 14
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Dino
Pro
Posts: 1422
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posted March 10, 2004 09:16 PM
If you give them a spin and they keep rotating for 5 minutes or more, you're in good shape. 
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Megabyte
Pro
Posts: 1047
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posted March 10, 2004 09:20 PM
quote:
If you give them a spin and they keep rotating for 5 minutes or more, you're in good shape.
How about 5 seconds? Really, I'm coming up on 17K miles, perhaps I should have my bearing replaced?
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We First make our habits and then our habits make us.
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
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posted March 11, 2004 03:28 AM
I wouldnt go by mileage.... more about wear.
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slug
Pro
Out in search of my mind...
Posts: 1433
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posted March 11, 2004 04:29 AM
hrmmmm heh the smiley gives away the sarcasm ;P
if your wheel spins for 5 minutes, it's prolly time to change the things.....or at the very least inspect and grease them. properly greased bearings should provide a small amount of rolling resistance to the wheel in a coasting situation. (i got 2 bearings for balancing tires with. standard grease, sitting balanced on axle stands, the wheel would stop spinning in 3 turns or so. removed the grease and coated with WD40 and the same nudge WILL go for 5+ minutes.)
as long as the wheel spins freely and has no odd noises, the bearings are probably fine. you need to check them physically for rough spots and such.
easiest is to take wheel off and clean bearings off (get rid of the road-dirt and brake dust). stick finger in the inner race of the bearing, and turn it by hand. There should be NO tight spots or 'rough' feeling. it should be smooth, but not sloppy loose. If you put the axle in the bearing, you should not be able to 'twist' the inner race at all (twist in relation to the outer race. if the axle can be made to go in to the wheel at an angle NOT perpendicular to the bearing placement in the wheel then the bearing is worn out). (assuming the axle is a tight fit inside the race. if that fit is sloppy, then it is time for new bearing or axle or both)
if the bearing doesn't have dust-shields on sides you can look at the grease in the bearing. if it is dry looking or waxy, it needs new grease.
if there are any signs of water entry in to the bearing area, you may be wise to replace the bearings and seals. just make sure to get the inner bearing spacer (if so equipped) installed properly.
bearings re like 10 buck max, so when in doubt, change them out. having one go bad would blow goats
   
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swft
Needs a life
Full throttle!
Posts: One MEEEEEELLION
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posted March 11, 2004 05:55 AM
Slug's said it all. If you are seeing some drag right now, clean your calipers and check to see that your brake pads aren't dragging.
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kawpower
Zone Head
Mr kawasaki 2 you!
Posts: 887
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posted March 11, 2004 06:02 AM
Check your sprocket carrier bearing, mine went at 15000, miles, the others were ok.Replaced them all.
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Megabyte
Pro
Posts: 1047
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posted March 11, 2004 02:18 PM
Thanks for all the great input! I don't hear any drag sounds, but I'm nearly deaf...  I'm looking to install new rotors, and was thinking @ 17K, it would also be a good time to replace bearings.
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We First make our habits and then our habits make us.
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