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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: Adjusting valves on the 12 NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
beansbaxter


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Posts: 5911
posted January 14, 2004 10:25 AM        
Poll Question:
Adjusting valves on the 12

I had my valves adjusted at the 7500 mark, and approaching 15000 means I'll be up to do it again soon.

Normally, I just take my bike to the dealer and have them do it. It gets expensive to do that, and the bike has to be completely cool to adjust the valves so it just sits there cooling since I have to ride it to the dealer.

Well, I was talking to Dino a while back, and he mentioned just taking the engine out of the 12 and take it to have the valves adjusted. Saves money and you just put the engine back in yourself.

Do a lot of you do that, take the engine out? Do some of you take your 12 to the dealer to do it? Does anyone do it themselves? Just curious.

Poll Results:
 0 votes (0%)
Take the engine out and to the dealer?

 1 votes (7%)
Take the bike to the dealer to do it?

 13 votes (93%)
Do it myself?


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VincentHill


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posted January 14, 2004 10:35 AM        
I will be doing mine! I also did the valves on my Honda Interceptor also! You need to learn this for yourself if you have any Mechanical Skills! The Cams will need to come out! If you have never done this, then I suggest you "CHECK" the valves yourself and If they need adjusting, then take it to the Dealer!
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beansbaxter


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Posts: 5911
posted January 14, 2004 10:53 AM        
Do valves need to be "adjusted" every 7500 miles then? At periodical checks of the valves at 7500mile intervals, wont the valves have to be in need of adjustment? Or is it possible they are still fine and a check will suffice?

My first valve adjustment at 7500 miles made such a noticeable improvement, that I honestly felt my bike ran better and smoother then the first day I bought it.

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VincentHill


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posted January 14, 2004 11:37 AM        
quote:
Do valves need to be "adjusted" every 7500 miles then? At periodical checks of the valves at 7500mile intervals, wont the valves have to be in need of adjustment? Or is it possible they are still fine and a check will suffice?

My first valve adjustment at 7500 miles made such a noticeable improvement, that I honestly felt my bike ran better and smoother then the first day I bought it.


DId you just ignore what I posted?
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beansbaxter


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Posts: 5911
posted January 14, 2004 11:45 AM        
Sorry VH...I guess I didnt realize your valves could be checked and not needing adjustment. I thought they had to have some sort of adjustment after that many miles of riding, that was all.
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MadMike


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posted January 14, 2004 01:01 PM        
Beans I agree with VH. check them yourself and then if they need adjusted have your dealer do it. almost all of the one's I have seen do not need adjusting at all.
I do all of mine, and some times it is a royal pain! but if you take your time your good to go. and Make sure if you have your dealer "adjust" your valves tell them you want to Keep the original Shim's!! that way if you have to have them adjusted again you might be able to use them. and I believe the dealer will charge you 8bucks a piece for a shim.
Mad Mike
Or Beans if your anywhere near Iowa I can do it for you and save you a boat load!
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VincentHill


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posted January 14, 2004 01:29 PM        
Amen ti MM! Remember, all you need is a feeler gauge to "CHECK" the clearance! I do not know what the settings are, .004 & .006 for the exhaust (It is usually in that range) so you will need a .003, .004. .005, .006, .007. .008 feeler gauge! If it is tighter than .003, it needs an adjustment on the intake. if it is tighter than .005 on the exhaust it needs adjustment. If the intake is looser than .005 or the exhaust is looser than .007, make the adjustment

This is provided the setting is .004 intake and .006 exhaust! My rule of thumb is no more than .001 either way! (Tight or lose) The main dnager is too tight! If your exhaust is .003, it could get hot enough to actually leak exhaust and burn the valve! If the intake is .002, you could lose pressure when the engine is hot!

My Suggestion is to plan to take Saturday (or Sunday) and use the entire day! Make sure everything is clean! Take your fairing lowers off, remove the covers netween the tank and fairing. Take the water bottle and other things and move them out of the way! Remove the rubber cover and remove the spark plug stick coils and remove the plugs! Then carefully remove the bolts holding the cover. Since I have not done this on this bike, I think I am going to remove my radiator and exhaust (Only springs to remove and put a jack with a 2 x 6 under the engine and remove the 2 bolts that hold it to the top of the frame and one bolt in the lower rear and loosen the top rear bolt. Then take off the frame covers over the fuel injection and remove the inlet boots! Then and lower the engine a few inches and have piece and harmony while you point the cams 90 degrees from the valves and check the clearance. I sould also suggest taking off the rotor cover to have someway to turn the engine over!

I am not sure if the top or Botom bolt at the rear is best to remove, it might be the top! Yopu do not want to take them both out under any circumstances becuse you have then really made work for yourself!

Mad Mike, How close am I to what you do? Since I have to change pistons, I must remove the countershaft sprocket so I can remove the chain and disconnect the fuel lines and wires to remove the engine! I have a small cable hoist I crank the engines up on to my work bench and then a tall chair to sit there and watch TV while working on my engine in the Basement!
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MadMike


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posted January 14, 2004 03:33 PM        
You are right on Vince! take the Top bolt out and rember there is a spacer in there that you need to take the allen and turn it clockwise to loosen it up then you want to be very very careful Not to let the motor just drop forward or you will be buying a new front fender! I always put a safety block of wood under the oil pan incase my floor jack will fail! and On you motor vince You do not have to remove the engine entirely. Last season I built DWB's 1270 motor for him and we left both engine bolts in, the pistons were easy! it was getting the block back on which was a stinker! but then again I will come up with a good way to do that soon I am sure! I just need to build a tool! other then that it was all good! then a month later his second gear went out and we had to drop the motor anyways. LOL...
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