donnbauer

Novice Class
Posts: 56
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posted January 15, 2008 05:19 PM
12V accessory lead ?
Has anyone had a problem finding 12v at the rear leads? Mine are grey and blk/ white not the blk and blk /white the book calls, out any help? Also the grey puts out 3.4 volts with the engine running........ Weird
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Donn
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FASTESTbusaAROUND

Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted January 15, 2008 06:42 PM
Dude, that's not ACC you're on; more like ABS or computer. Anything putting out 3.4 running is a wire you DON'T want to fuck with, trust me on this one. Use a DVOM to find the wire that's 12V on run and that shuts down during crank. That's going to be ACC. If you find one the stays live on crank and has 12V on run, you can use that as well, as long as the gauge is large enough to handle the load you want to put on it. Lighter socket wold be perfect for that too, as well as the harness at the IGN switch, if you don't mind running the wire to the front, What's if for anyway?
There are going to be quite a few wires at the rear that will work for you, like at least 10 or more...just test with a DVOM; fuck the manual. Many of the rear lights will be 12V ACC or IGN -- and that would be fine, depending on the load.
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FYYFF!!!
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donnbauer

Novice Class
Posts: 56
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posted January 15, 2008 10:37 PM
Thanks FBA, what I wanted was the factory accessory 12v leads they say are there and there are infact loose leads sitting there with female bullet connectors so it seems a little strange to have the wrong leads sitting where the book says some should be. Fuckin japs and their crazy lektrisotee. I'm going to take it in tomorrow for warranty work so hopefully the dealer can fix or advise.
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Donn
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fish_antlers

Administrator
The Truth is Out There
Posts: 21896
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posted January 16, 2008 07:47 AM
easiest way (always) is to run a fused lead to the battery (if you have the time).
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What business is it of yours where I'm from, Friendo?
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ozzy

Needs a job
need guberment cheese
Posts: 3172
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posted January 17, 2008 04:45 AM
quote: easiest way (always) is to run a fused lead to the battery (if you have the time).
be sure to wire in a relay so you dont drain the battery with the key off.
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"It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses......HIT IT!"
Blues Bros.
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fish_antlers

Administrator
The Truth is Out There
Posts: 21896
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posted January 17, 2008 01:10 PM
huh? wear a helmet while ya walk, toO!
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What business is it of yours where I'm from, Friendo?
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stavee
Parking Attendant
Posts: 4
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posted January 17, 2008 06:45 PM
You were close to the ACC leads but not far enough to the rear of the bike. They are to the rear and partially under the relay box. Remove the box and you will see a large bell shaped insulator with connectors and the two wires you are looking for tucked inside. Pull them out the small end of the bell and tuck all the rest back where you got them. Install the box with the ACC leads sticking up and your in business.
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donnbauer

Novice Class
Posts: 56
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posted January 18, 2008 06:18 PM
Thank you very much Stavee I looked around there but not enough huh? BTW Kawasaki Tech Support said there was no rear 12 lead and that the book had a type-o so I would have to wire one my self. I can't wait to dig it out and shove it up the Dealer techs ass...... Wow.... thats a mental picture I didn't measn to paint
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Donn
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stavee
Parking Attendant
Posts: 4
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posted January 19, 2008 07:27 PM
Edited By: stavee on 19 Jan 2008 19:38
Fred Harman has a nice photo spread on how to dig out those leads.
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/accleads
Check it out it has more detail . He calls the switch box (per service manual)the ECU. At any rate a picture is worth everything.
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DennisR
Parking Attendant
Posts: 7
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posted February 07, 2008 03:40 AM
To solve the accessory power problem, I added an accessory fuse block. I mounted the fuse block on the left side under the top side cover. The power was taken directly from the battery to a 40 Amp relay. The relay is activated by power from the factory accessory plug on the right side of the dash. By using that for power, it is only on when the ignition is on. The fuse block has six fuses for six separate accesssory circuits. You can then put in fuses and wiring of the appropriate size for each individual accessory. Easy to do and inexpensive. The fuse block was $10 and the relay $6 from my local auto parts store. You will need some wire to hook up all of the parts.
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donnbauer

Novice Class
Posts: 56
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posted February 07, 2008 07:43 PM
So I print Fred's directions, walk out to the bike and WALLAAAA there is the 12volt lead right where it should be( FUCKIN NO BRAIN KAWI TECH DICK) works great and thanks to you all here it took 5 minutes to wire my new gloves.
On that note, I hate the Tourmaster Synergy Gloves, they suck ass and don't heat worth a damn on the thumbs or hands proper. Mine also fit poorly for 3x's. On to the next brand. These are going back to the dealer with a frown.
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Donn
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