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BIKELAND > FORUMS > GSXR1000 ZONE.com > Thread: 2007 GSXR 1000 OTD PRICE? NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
ninjaatnite


Novice Class
Posts: 65
posted April 23, 2007 10:03 PM        
2007 GSXR 1000 OTD PRICE?

Sold my 2006 ZX 14 Saturday looking to buy 2007 GSXR 1000. What should I expect to pay? THANKS,

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Ozzy


Needs a job
need guberment cheese
Posts: 3172
posted April 24, 2007 02:14 AM        
cash
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"It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses......HIT IT!"
Blues Bros.

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nemesis


Novice Class
Posts: 51
posted April 28, 2007 09:00 PM        
Cold hard cash.
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flickmeister


Parking Attendant
Posts: 3
posted May 02, 2007 06:36 AM        
ninjaatnite,

A general rule for most Japanese bikes (the GSXR1000 is one that this applies to) is to take the MSRP and multiply it X 0.83 = dealer cost. Contrary to those completely bogus "transportation" charges you see from the dealer, freight is included in their invoice price. While I haven't seen a dealer cost sheet for any of the 2007 machines, $200 should be within $25 of the manufacturer's shipping charge to the dealer. So, add the dealer cost to the freight to get the dealer's invoice price, keeping in mind it may vary +/- $50.

Example: 2007 GSXR1000: $11,400 X 0.83 = $9642 + $200 freight = $9842 dealer invoice.

I start to negotiate on an "Out-the-Door" price only. This includes dealer invoice plus whatever profit I feel is a good starting point (this depends on the bike's popularity, time of the year/month, etc). For a good selling model, I usually want to pay no more than invoice price plus $500 dealer profit, plus tax, tag, and title. NOTHING more. Administrative costs, freight, and set-up are simply excuses to increase dealer profits and decrease your hard earned buckos. You may not get that $500 over if it is a hot selling bike, especially if the supply is limited. But know how far above your offering price you are willing to go. Set an absolute max you are willing to spend. If it is in your range, buy it. If not, hit the streets.....Above all, don't let the dealer bully you into spending more than you are willing to pay.

I don't waste a dealer's time. I know the bike I want, have done my research and am ready to buy if we agree on the price. I tell them I will buy now if I get the right deal and will not shop other dealers if we agree on a price. If I don't agree with their price, I will look elsewhere until I get the deal I want or I won't buy at all. I make all of this clear before I propose an OTD price.

I only talk my OTD asking price. I never mention their invoice price (they'll deny it anyway nine times out of ten). I used to ask for the $500 dealer profit figure up front. Now days, I start at what I think is invoice plus $300 dealer profit. Most dealers won't touch this unless they desperately want to unload it. Know how much more you are willing to spend. My range is usually $300 to $600 profit margin (don't tell 'em that). If the dealer is within your range, buy it. Sometimes, if things aren't going well, you can ask the dealer how much profit he needs to make. If he commits to that number, ask to see the invoice (some will, some won't), add their stated profit margin, plus tax, tag, and title. If you both agree, buy it. If not, hit the streets.

If you have a trade, DO NOT bring it up at this point. Get a price on a "no-trade" cash OTD basis. Once you get into that grey area of used bike prices, you have lost all control. If you do want to trade, know what the dealer wholesale price for your bike is. Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com) is a good place to start. Don't expect more than the bottom-line wholesale price for your bike and it's mileage/condition. The dealer's gotta make money somewhere. Any money you have spent on bike mods will not help you in any way. In most cases, it lowers the value compared to a stock bike. Sorry folks, money-wise, accessory parts are a total loss., but ya had more fun right? The only exception I've ever seen to this rule is if you are selling the bike privately and the right purchasher comes along at the right time. Otherwise, you will lose money or die of old age before unloading it. If your's is a desirable bike in good shape, don't give it way either. I have had great luck selling sportbikes privately, but if you don't want the hassle and the tax benefit (the price you agree on minus your trade is what you pay state tax on) works better for you, a trade may be to your advantage.

Oh BTW, I'm a new kid on the block. Sixty years old, been riding for 44+ years, but first post. Hope it helps. Happy hunting. Cheers, Jack

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dubious


Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
posted May 04, 2007 04:49 AM        
flickmeister,

good advice!
welcome a-board!
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.

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warbird


Needs a job
Posts: 2739
posted August 17, 2007 04:26 PM        Edited By: warbird on 17 Aug 2007 17:28
My dealer has a blue and white on the floor..............dry battery, never been started. $9795.00 + 6% tax. Nothing else. If you are out of state it would be $9795.00...........period.


http://www.leesinc.com/inventory.shtml


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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.

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07gsxr1000


Parking Attendant
Posts: 1
posted August 26, 2007 05:03 PM        
OTD price

just got an 07 gsxr1000 at $9600 OTD

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