Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted December 10, 2012 04:06 PM
rim bearing removal
lookin at getting new wheels and need to remove my bearings. Do i need to purchase a special tool or is there another way to go about this?
Also is the installation as easy as tapping the new ones in?
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
  
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Hayabusa14
Expert Class
Posts: 129
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posted December 10, 2012 04:22 PM
 Edited By: Hayabusa14 on 11 Dec 2012 00:24
If you are getting after market wheels, they should come with new bearing in them. If you are buying used wheels, I would put new bearings in them. New stock bearings are cheap. Just my 2ct.. 
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2012 SE-ZX14R [CT Meg-PC5 with street map-Evil swingarm 64" wheelbase-JRI shock], 2009 GSXR 1000, 2008 B-King, 2007 SE-ZX14 "Brocked out" - 1999 Hayabusa "stage 1" Turbo
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smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted December 10, 2012 05:04 PM
quote:
If you are getting after market wheels, they should come with new bearing in them. If you are buying used wheels, I would put new bearings in them. New stock bearings are cheap. Just my 2ct..
Ditto
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted December 10, 2012 05:12 PM
i might be exchanging them for a powder coated set and need to remove my bearings and send them completely stripped wheel
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
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smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted December 10, 2012 05:20 PM
quote:
i might be exchanging them for a powder coated set and need to remove my bearings and send them completely stripped wheel
The old ones are hell to remove with out the right puller ..installing the new ones can be done by hand but you have to be very carefull installing them .. Better to get the right tools to install them ( bearing driver) .. You can find them on Ebay at a good price ..I Never reuse old bearing ..
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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edszx14
Expert Class
Posts: 271
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posted December 10, 2012 05:22 PM
You will need a tool to remove the bearings. I bought the slide hammer tool set with the different size inserts for the bearings. It works great. The tool cost $80 and the name on the tool kit is 'Tusk" Hope this helps.
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Ed
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zixxer14
Pro
Damn that was Quick
Posts: 1233
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posted December 10, 2012 05:35 PM
I removed mine with a long drift punch without much trouble. Just tap around the bearing, you can beat on the inside as you're tossing them anyway. When you reinstall new ones put the bearings in the freezer & gently heat the wheel where the bearings sit, they will almost drop in for you. I use an appropriate sized socket to drive them in & remember never beat on the inside only the outer races (ie open side of the socket towards the bearing). Simple, just keep them straight as they go in.
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zx12mark
Pro
Posts: 1654
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posted December 10, 2012 07:25 PM
Edited By: zx12mark on 11 Dec 2012 04:54
quote:
i might be exchanging them for a powder coated set and need to remove my bearings and send them completely stripped wheel
I just went thru all of this this summer.
#1 the polymer plastic coating on the oem wheels is the tuffest and best wheel coating known to man.
#2 You can take a torch for a few mins. on 1 spot and not even faze it.It thinks air craft stripper is water.
# 3 the only way to get it off fast is to soak them in acid but it makes a mess out of them.You still got to sand them......This is how i did mine in the end.
#4 I made my solid black 14r wheels look like the 14r s e wheels The black spoke`s are powder coated and the shiny bare aluminum is clear powder coat.It took 15 hours of sanding and about 150 bucks in power coat service and other supplies.
#5 Buy some wheels already the way you want them.............
#6 YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED................................
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Quarter Pounder
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Posts: 1069
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posted December 10, 2012 08:47 PM
Long punch through the inside of the hub. You'll need to move the inner spacer over just a tad to get the punch on the inner race. Hammer them out working them side to side. Don't worry about damaging the old bearings...you won't be reusing them. First one is the worst one, once that one is out, flip the wheel and spacer will fall out, now knock out the second one.
Installation there are a few tips. One, freeze your bearings prior to installation. Just put them in the freezer overnight in the packages. WD-40 for lube in bearing cup. Use a large socket or bearing driver to drive the bearing into the cup making sure you only drive the OUTER race or ring. If you drive it in using the inner race, you've just ruined it and will need to get new one. Once you bottom out the first bearing, flip wheel over and install the inner spacer, now drive the other bearing in the same way you did the other one. Let the bearings warm back up to ambient temps and you are ready to roll.
You don't need anything special, just proper sized hand tools. PM me if you need any assistance. I'm a field service tech for a bearing manufacturer. These little ones are a breeze to deal with.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted December 11, 2012 01:26 AM
thanks for the info!!
Any specific bearings you guys recommend and the part number?
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
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Romans
Expert Class
Posts: 294
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posted December 11, 2012 02:37 AM
This will Help make it easy
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2012 ZX-14 R Turbo, 2010 ZX-14 Turbo, 2007 ZX-14, 2009 ZX-6R, YZ 450F
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WARBIRD
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted December 11, 2012 11:01 AM
quote:
This will Help make it easy
+1 That is the tool set I have........if you use that and the freeze method to install you won't have any problems. A press is the way to go so you don't have to tap on your new bearings but if one isn't available then freezing them is the way to go like said above.
If you are not comfortable doing it yourself take it to someone who is and learn that way. One time at this and you will be confident to do it again.
P.S. DON'T forget to put the spacer in before you install the second bearing.........  
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted December 12, 2012 03:00 PM
any recommendations for bearings, not in the market for any ceramics
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
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Quarter Pounder
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posted December 12, 2012 07:21 PM
NSK, NTN, SKF, FAG
All high quality stuff and NOT chinese crap. I'd buy NSK, but I'm a bit biased since I work for them.
If you want a bit less rolling resistance, get the non-contact seals. Otherwise, just get the OEM type full contact seals. Even for your cush drive, get a sealed bearing.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted December 13, 2012 02:05 AM
QP do you have part numbers for the NSK bearings needed for the 14R?
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
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Romans
Expert Class
Posts: 294
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posted December 13, 2012 02:34 AM
Front 6005 x 2 Rear 6205 x 2 & one Cush Drive 6006 which Seals is up to you
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2012 ZX-14 R Turbo, 2010 ZX-14 Turbo, 2007 ZX-14, 2009 ZX-6R, YZ 450F
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Quarter Pounder
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posted December 13, 2012 03:46 PM
All quality bearing manufacturers use the same basic part numbers. Using 6205 for reference:
The 6 denotes its a deep groove ball bearing
The 2 denotes it's a metric, light bearing
The last two digits denote it's bore size.
00= 10mm
01= 12mm
02= 15mm
03= 17mm
04= 20mm
05 and up you multiply by 5 to get the bore size in mm. So 05 is 25mm.
After the basic part numbers, it's an alphabet soup and we all use something a little different to denote the cage type, seals, clearance, grease type and fill. I've got a cross reference if you have another brand and want to know what's what.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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zixxer14
Pro
Damn that was Quick
Posts: 1233
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posted December 13, 2012 05:37 PM
I like All Balls just for the name & they seem to be good quality too.
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Quarter Pounder
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posted December 13, 2012 06:44 PM
Edited By: Quarter Pounder on 14 Dec 2012 03:23
can you tell me where all balls are made and who actually makes them for them?
I can tell you that the small bore bearings in this size made by NSK are made right in Clarinda, IA by the good ol folks of the US of A.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted December 16, 2012 05:39 AM
not sure who makes the All Balls bearings but theyre the ones you normally see on Ebay
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
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Quarter Pounder
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posted December 16, 2012 06:15 AM
I'm not trusting unbranded bearings sold by a third party. Just saying.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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zixxer14
Pro
Damn that was Quick
Posts: 1233
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posted December 16, 2012 06:20 AM
Not sure either but I got over 20k on a rear set. They appear to be equal or better than the stock bearings, very smooth & free wheeling, plus the set I got was sealed unlike the stockers which I think is a big advantage to keeping them clean inside as the outer wheel seals are fairly ineffective at keeping grunge out.
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Quarter Pounder
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Posts: 1069
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posted December 16, 2012 07:29 AM
it's not what you can see. It's simply the quality of steel being used and how they are heat treated. But mostly is the type steel being used. They are not all created equal. All the major manufacturers have it figured out.
I HOPE you got over 20k on a set.
If you had unsealed bearings (other than the cush dr)...those were not OEM.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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