new14rider
Novice Class
Posts: 76
|
posted September 27, 2012 01:50 PM
stripped my secondary throttle plate screw. HELP!!
Yeah it's me again........ So I got my ECU back from Guhl's motors and decided to re-install my secondary throttle plates (2012 model). They went on fine with some red loctite, but when trying to test the functionality manually, it seemed like they were dragging against the walls of the throttle bodies. Of course Since I always over-think things, I unscrew each one and re-adjust, as they have some play; trying the get them all centered. Well, when I get back to the #1 plate, I over tightened one and snapped off the head. The other screw on the same plate, I stripped. Now isn't this fun. So I'm thinking that the dragging noise is from the rod internally and not the plates because I don't have the bike running yet and there is probably some resistance.
The question. Should I just leave in the stripped screw and drill out the broken screw and re-tap for a larger screw???? Man, I was almost done!!!!! The good thing is that I want them in anyway so it is just one screw I need to fix.
What would you do????
Thanks Again.
  
|
new14rider
Novice Class
Posts: 76
|
posted September 27, 2012 02:30 PM
Anyone know the screw size for the secondaries on the 2012???? I'll probably need to drill with a Dremel extension and re-tap, but I need to get one size larger that the actual screw size which I don't know. Thanks
|
Ninjawarrior1244
Expert Class
Posts: 115
|
posted September 27, 2012 02:33 PM
It can be done but you must take your time and proceed slowly.....don't panic.
Remove the good screw next to the stripped broken one and remove the fly.
Install a soft white rag down below the pivot shaft to catch metal particles that will fall from removal of the broken screw stud or future drilling.
See if you have one or two exposed threads sticking out of the pivot shaft you can get a strong set of long nose pliers on and slowly back it out...if you have loctite on it it may be very tough or impossible to do.
If it won't release and back out you have two choices....try drilling a very small pilot hole in the broken screw and use an easy out to back it out.
If that won't work, you have to remove the entire pivot shaft.....I would rather tune up my Rolex than do that one....
Keep a strong shop vacuum close by and suck often.
When you re install the flies always do one only completely, and check throttle rotation to make sure it is on straight and does not drag on intake chamber. Then move to the next one and repeat process....
Use Number 2 bit screwdriver ONLY! Go slow...try easy does it on the driver.
Recommend you start off with all brand new unused screws because some of them are weakened when you initially remove them when they are in there with factory loctite. It stresses the strength of the screw head a bit....so always get brand new screws when you re install the flies....
Keep us posted on your progress......you are NOT the first one to have this occur...go slow use patience, test each throttle before buttoning it all up.
____________
Speed is fine...but accuracy is Deadly!
|
zx12mark
Pro
Posts: 1654
|
posted September 27, 2012 03:03 PM
loctite melts around 300 degress.take a solder gun and heat up the screw heads. watch out for near by plastic.
|
new14rider
Novice Class
Posts: 76
|
posted September 27, 2012 03:29 PM
Let me clarify my post... There are two screws on the throttle plate. The inboard screw head is snapped off. I panicked and stripped the outboard screw. I cannot take off the plate and the screws are held in with red loctite. Is there a way to drill out the broken screw and re-tap for a larger screw. I'm keeping the plates in, so I don't have to take out the stripped outboard screw. I don't think I can remove it anyway. So, my only option is to get a dremel extension and drill the hole out with the plate in and suck out the shavings after. Then use a tap with extension to re-thread the hole for an apropriate screw size. It's only one screw. I started the bike and revved it up and the throttle plates work fine. There is no dragging. It was the sound of the shaft not the plates. I had it right all along!!!!!! Now I'm really screwed Ha Ha!
|
Ninjawarrior1244
Expert Class
Posts: 115
|
posted September 27, 2012 03:52 PM
 Edited By: Ninjawarrior1244 on 27 Sep 2012 23:54
Ok, now it is clear...
Use the smallest sharp bit you can find..drill dead center into each broken off screw.....slow speed on the bit to get it going...then once in....use a progressively larger diameter bit....until the easy out will tap into the holes..then slowly put down pressure on the screw until they ease out..do not bend the throttle shaft with too much pressure.
Do not drill larger holes then retap existing holes..stay with stock, the inside threads are perfect so use them.....!!
Don't make a bad situation worse.....get em out put new screws in...leave them alone forever.
____________
Speed is fine...but accuracy is Deadly!
|
Obba
Expert Class
Posts: 455
|
posted September 28, 2012 03:00 AM
I dont know the material of the plates; i assume that they are aluminuim.
If so, heating them with a hot air gun will allow them to expand, the harder more dense screw will be easy to undo - even more so with some of the methods mentioned above.
The easy outs, i have not had a lot of luck in (most snapping especially at the smaller sizes). They wont, if done REALLY dead set straight correctly, but if it does snap off, you will have that hard material right in the centre of the screw you are trying to undo!
I've had more success at (when the outermost material is heated up), using a small chisel to make 'new' slot in the body of the stripped head screw and then unscrew it. But i don't know how much downward force you can use to make the new slot, without bending something. If you get a good 'slot', tap a philips jewelers driver in to get a 'cross', and then use a smaller jewelers driver (so it seats ok), and using a pair of pliers, heat gun, pressing down, go for it...
You'd be surprised at how much (if the plates are aluminuim), will expand under a hot air gun.
Another way might be to drill a small hole in the material (centre punch first), then solder (if the materials allow), a piece of metal in the hole and some sticking out - heat the plates up with hot air gun and with a pair of pliers go for that...
Good luck.
|
ambull
Expert Class
Posts: 108
|
posted September 28, 2012 07:29 AM
did the same thing on my 09 Busa..took my secondary throttle plates off.then went to put them back in.first one started puttin in the screw broke.Called a buddy of mine.Took the throttle bodies off.couln not get the screws out.He took the shaft all the way out of the secondarys an drille the screw out.it was a bitch.he then tapped all the screw holes.went down to a ace hardware an got new screws.also little washers to put on them as the head is smaller on the screws there than the factory ones.busa an 14 use the same screws.took a while getting it all back together but it is fine now.Good luck.also the screws from ace are a allen head.lot easier to tighten.
.
|
Denver zx 14
Novice Class
Posts: 70
|
posted September 28, 2012 04:02 PM
Buy a set of "reverse" drillbits and drill out the broken screw. Chances are very good that the "reverse" drilling action will unscrew the broken screw. Works for me almost all the time!
|
samin
Novice Class
Posts: 94
|
posted September 29, 2012 12:25 PM
i dont think you can use any reverse drillings. screws are something like M3 (metric)
as said before, firstly try to melt red loctite used (imo dont never use red, use blue instead!), and try gently unscrew snapped screw with proper pliers.
for stripped screws (phillips), i´ve sometimes just drilled or grinded (sorry i dont know how are you calling that in english) the x-head so that it can be turned with small flat head screwdriver.
____________
*Who's General Failure and why's he reading my disk?
* ZX-14 ABS -08, Finnish guy ^^
|
new14rider
Novice Class
Posts: 76
|
posted September 29, 2012 04:08 PM
Thanks Everyone, especially Smokinzx14!!!! I have fixed the problem!
Here is the in-depth procedure: I can't believe it actually worked..... I'm still shaking my head.... stupid, stupid, stupid.......
I did the unthinkable and drilled with the throttlebodies on the bike (against all advise).
So I was able to remove the three good secondary plates in 5 minutes with a Jap screwdriver #2 and torch to heat the good screws with the red loctite. No problem. I then purchased a Dremel extension shaft and a couple of small grinding bits that fit perfectly into the stripped part of the screw head. I taped around the secondary plate to seal any open spaces exposing the primaries and lubed the tape with bearing grease. I then started to drill that center hole like a cavity in a tooth. Widening and lowering to seperate the screw head from the stud. Well, a couple of minutes and it came off clean (without having to grind down the whole head). I took off the tape and folded it before I removed it to catch the screw head, plate, and filings (which were extremely minimal). I then inserted a wet micro fiber rag piece under the secondary rod and attached a small flat grinder and ground down, leveled, and feathered the sharp edges of both broken, protruding screw posts with the secondary shaft (they are both red loctited, so I don't think they will ever come lose!!!!) I then grabbed a magnetic screwdriver charged from a rare earth magnet and combed the cloth and the areas around the screws and secondary shaft catching initial filings (actually dust). After removing the cloth I made a vacuum hose from a piece of plastic tubing, a dust buster, and painters tape. It sucked out every bit of debris in the intake area, especially along the edges of the primaries. To finish off the job, I taped q-tips to a screwdriver and swabed the primaries, secondary shaft, and walls with rubbing alcohol and at the very end, dabbed some red loctite on a q-tip and saturated the screw posts just incase there may be any weak spots.
This cost was $42.00 vs the several hundred to thousand dollar range and I am more than happy to run the bike with no secondaries and the updated flash. Started the bike and all works fine, no binding or bending of shafts!!!! Bike is all back together and ready to ride. Took about 2 hours total.
Thanks to some great advise from Smokinzx14, My arse is saved!!!!!!! Thank you so much!!!!
|
smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
|
posted September 29, 2012 04:13 PM
Glad it all worked out for you ... 
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC