Y2KZX12R
Needs a job
CompetitionCNC.com
Posts: 3762
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posted September 04, 2012 04:37 AM
 Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 4 Sep 2012 12:38
You guys own the bike you can do what ever you want.
Let me point out a few things thou.
There is a difference between a production engine and a blueprinted race engine.
A production engine is put together with individual production parts that when finished are each within tolerances for the individual part. But when assembled they can have a stack up of tolerances one way or the other. So some parts can be fitting tight and some loose. The loose part isn't a problem but the tight stuff can create hot spots in the engine early on.
Also remember that the factory sets up the main and rod bearings on the tight side of the specs. These engines are supposed to last 100,000 miles or more.
A blueprinted race engine, has all the clearances set to where they need to be for racing. Race engines do not get run for 1000 miles (or whatever) to get broken in. They are broken in either on the dyno or on the road in the first 10 minutes of running time. They dont have tight spots or tight rod and main bearings if they are a truly blueprinted engine.
Very few bike shops or motorcycle engine builders have full, engine, machine shops. I can tell you that there are very few motorcycle engine builders that actually blueprint the engines they build. Almost all are buying parts and assembling them and they dont use a blueprint build sheet. You wont see a professional engine builder use plastigauge.
So many "rebuilt" assembled engines fall into the category of "may have tight spots" so they need a longer run time before putting them under load. Things like cranks and cams with excessive run-out, not enough rod side clearance, pin bores in the rods too tight, rod big ends out of round, warped cam journals, bent or twisted rods, etc....
Anyway, back to break in, the first time any engine is started with new cams it needs to be run between 2000 and 4000 rpms varying that rpm until the water temp gets up to operating temp. (this may or may not be done at the factory) That's about 3-5 minutes. Let it cool back down at least a few hours. The next time its started it needs to be put under a heavy load as soon as the oil temperature is up to operating temp or above 170 or so degrees. You can take it out on the road or run it on the dyno. But give it at least 75% throttle for a few short bursts from 4000 - 9000 rpm and then give it 100% throttle for several short bursts from 4000- max rpm for the engine. Then shut it down or bring it home and let it cool to room temp.
The cams and rings are now broken in. On a blue printed race engine its ready to do laps now under full power. On a production engine it still can have tight spots so for the next few hundred miles it may still be wearing in. You can ride it hard and full throttle it threw the gears but just dont hold it at red-line for 5 miles straight.
Like I said you guys own the bike so you can do whatever you want but thats what I recomend.
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Y2KZX12R
CompetitionCNC.com
   
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted September 04, 2012 06:07 PM
forget what i said and read that^^^
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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ZX14MAN
Parking Attendant
Posts: 18
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posted September 04, 2012 06:46 PM
By the book. By the book.
The Kawasaki engineers know alot more about this, and have alot more invested in it, than we do.
Break it in as the manual says.
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