Wheelie
Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
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posted May 30, 2012 03:04 PM
quote:
Removing the flies will be most noticeable during street riding. In my
Opinion it's a no brainer! If you have any kind of
Mechanic inclination you should be able to do it yourself in less than an hour. A couple of things to keep in mind. Get a NEW QUALITY screwdriver with a long "shank" at least 7-8 inches and make sure you get a specific screwdriver I think it's a number 6 but the numbers wore off mine long ago so I am not sure. Also and some people think this is a little excessive but I say better a little extra work than having to fix a problem but use this technique and I garuntee no problems. Take your new long screwdriver and heat the tip very hot like with a propane torch or something place the screwdriver in the screw and give it a good solid whack or two with a mallet let the screwdriver sit on the screw for several seconds to heat up the loctite and turn screw slowly while applying constant downward pressure. Repeat this on every screw and it will be easy as pie. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
#2 phillips
wee
  
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Ninjawarrior1244
Expert Class
Posts: 115
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posted May 30, 2012 03:07 PM
 Edited By: Ninjawarrior1244 on 30 May 2012 23:54
Number 2 Screwdriver Phillips Head Bit. Heat the tip of the bit cherry red. Shut off the torch. Put the bit into the screw for one minute....then put down steady pressure and very very slowy turn the screw to the left, don't bend the shaft and it will slowly begin to release the lock tite and come out...very easily...do every one the same exact way...one minute cherry red tip...transfer the heat to the screw..and ease it out....never had a problem..have removed 14 flies out of 14 different bikes so far...never had an issue..use a pole magnet too and be sure the screw does not get away....
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Speed is fine...but accuracy is Deadly!
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Lucky14
Pro
Posts: 1439
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posted May 30, 2012 03:30 PM
quote:
Take your new long screwdriver and heat the tip very hot like with a propane torch or something place the screwdriver in the screw and give it a good solid whack or two with a mallet let the screwdriver sit on the screw for several seconds to heat up the loctite and turn screw slowly while applying constant downward pressure.
Depending on the definition of a "good solid whack" - that may bend the shaft and then you're in for real trouble.
The rest is good advice (#2 screwdriver) but maybe heat the screwdriver *near* the tip with a torch instead of the tip itself.
My 2 cents ..........................
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You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Greggy
Expert Class
Posts: 150
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posted May 30, 2012 08:38 PM
I thought you were supposed to use a JIS screwdriver and NOT a phillips to remove the flies?
Greggy
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2012 ZX-14R ABS - Spark Black - Two Brothers V.A.L.E. Carbon slip ons P1X tips - Powerbronze DB screen.
1990 ZX-10 Ninja - Megacycle stainless steel mufflers - gear-sack rack - tinted screen.
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blue07
Expert Class
Posts: 485
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posted May 30, 2012 09:03 PM
1-open the flies sooner
2-raise redline
3-delete top end limiter
Yup...that's the Guhl flash.No mapping.Ignition tables adjusted however.
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blue07
Expert Class
Posts: 485
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posted May 30, 2012 11:52 PM
Removed secondaries tonight...will test in the AM...JIS 900 1.75 phillips driver.No drama..no heating.They came right out with a cold motor.
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cls
Expert Class
Posts: 410
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posted May 31, 2012 12:56 AM
And? Interested to hear your opinion. I figure I'm going to have to do it, regardless.
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blue07
Expert Class
Posts: 485
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posted May 31, 2012 07:55 AM
Don't know yet...raining.
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blue07
Expert Class
Posts: 485
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posted May 31, 2012 05:50 PM
Edited By: blue07 on 1 Jun 2012 01:53
Okay...found out....SHEESH...I can really compare it best to a gearing change to 16/43 on the earlier versions.Yup...excellent mod....thanks all you guys who encouraged me to do this 'must have' mod!16/43?...well...much more that just that.The whole bike feels transformed....AWESOME...thanks again guys!
PS..rideability will be improved as well...she'll be even smoother!In every area....cruising,shifting....powering up and down.Gassing her....just great!
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cls
Expert Class
Posts: 410
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posted June 01, 2012 03:34 AM
Well, there you go. Another affirmative opinion. I'm in.
Thanks.
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blue07
Expert Class
Posts: 485
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posted June 01, 2012 03:48 AM
Edited By: blue07 on 1 Jun 2012 11:52
Thanks again to Wee,Blk Magic,and all the rest of ya....it was actually a lot easier on this 2012 than it was on my 07.No heating...nothing like that.Cold engine...JIS Phillips #900...1.75.Pair of needlenose to pull the plates out.The driver has a magnetic tip...so that made getting the screws out much easier.They all turned fine with a bit of firm torque.Set the tank diagonally across the tank well there...was able to hit the one side,4 screws,then switch it up...and get the rest.Tank sat nicely stable with the front of it resting on the airbox.No fuel line removal or anything.I'd say if anyone's gonna do this...be careful when resting the tank on there...the bottom edge....make sure you're not scraping the frame...I didn't...but it could happen.And I'd remove those two breather tubes as well..along with unhooking the two harness lines on the lower left rear tank side(black)from the bendable hook.
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Kaw Man
Expert Class
Posts: 186
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posted June 01, 2012 03:39 PM
Blue07 have you been to the track yet.
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