riteristrob

Expert Class
Posts: 109
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posted April 16, 2012 06:54 AM
Clutch Bleeding ?
In the process of bleeding the clutch lines. I have bled the clutch master cylinder. I screwed up bleeding the slave cylinder and gotten air in the lines. I bought a Mityvac and bled the slave so there is no air coming out just clear fluid.
I have firm pressure on the clutch lever but the clutch does not disengage when I pull in the lever.
Any ideas what could be wrong?
I've searched for a solution, but not found this same perplexing condition. Thanks in advance!
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mma-tv
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posted April 16, 2012 09:51 AM
Still some air in the line, IMO. Probably a bubble somewhere.
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riteristrob

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posted April 16, 2012 10:00 AM
Thanks! that is what I'm hoping for but it is a bitch to get that bubble out!
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mma-tv
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posted April 16, 2012 11:54 AM
Good luck! I hate bleeding motorcycle clutch lines, you only get about one ant fart of fluid at a time.
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cas15
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posted April 16, 2012 12:17 PM
Having the same problem got me going nuts
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riteristrob

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posted April 16, 2012 12:27 PM
I'll work on it tonight and post up if I get it resolved.
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zixxer14

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posted April 16, 2012 06:37 PM
Try bleeding it at the master cylinder.
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cas15
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posted April 16, 2012 06:41 PM
quote: Try bleeding it at the master cylinder.
where is the master cylinder located at
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zixxer14

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posted April 16, 2012 07:03 PM
On the handle bar connected to the lever. Just crack the bolt that holds the line with the lever pulled in & retighten quickly. Be sure to cover the area with a towel or you can get fluid on the plastic, guaranteed to fuck it up. This will bleed any small amount of air out of the line & master cylinder. You may have to do it a couple times but if you've already bled it at the slave cylinder & it's not working this is the way to finish bleeding the system.
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riteristrob

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posted April 18, 2012 07:41 PM
Bled master and slave cylinders. I have pumped about 30 ounces of brake fluid through the clutch, but foamy fluid continues to come out the slave cylinder. There has to be an air leak but I can't understand where. I get a firm lever but the clutch does not disengage. I have not loosened any of the banjo bolts.
One thing to note........The procedure in the service manual in the Clutch Fluid Change section of the Periodic Maintenance Chapter says to open the bleed valve first, THEN pump the clutch lever, hold it and close the bleed valve (doesn't seem correct to me).........The procedure in the Clutch Fluid Change section of the Clutch Chapter says to first pump the clutch lever until it become hard, HA!, and then hold it and quickly open and close the bleed valve, then release the lever, and repeat.
The second procedure is more aligned with brake line bleeding. HOWEVER, against my instincts I performed the first procedure and saw air being sucked into the slave cylinder.
Then I performed the second procedure pumping about 30 ounces through with the aid of a Mityvac. Still seeing a lot of bubbles and foam in the fluid.
So I'm thinking somehow I damaged the slave cylinder Piston Seal and that is where the air is getting pulled in.
Any thoughts on what else could be the cause?
Help please before go insane!
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zixxer14

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posted April 18, 2012 08:03 PM
I've had good & bad luck with the mityvac also. The second method of bleeding is correct or as you saw it will suck in air, I purchased a set of speed bleeder on ebay & they have made fluid changes a snap, You may wave foamed up the fluid by cycling so much through there. Try just letting the system sit overnight & attempt to finish bleeding it tomorrow. Be sure the master is topped up & closed. I work on hydraulic systems & sometimes they just have to sit & let the bubbles dissolve out.
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riteristrob

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posted April 19, 2012 04:09 AM
Thanks ZIXXER. I have let it sit for a couple of days, but still end up with the same result. I'm about to pull the slave and replace all the washers and lines.
This time of year all I can think about is riding (Michigan) and not to have any bike on the road is killing me. I've done a lot of mods to the bike over the winter and this is the only thing keeping me from riding.
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zixxer14

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posted April 19, 2012 02:07 PM
Sorry it didn't help, Usually it's not that difficult to do. Hope you can find the problem.
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RICH CRAFT 1

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posted April 19, 2012 03:20 PM
Edited By: RICH CRAFT 1 on 19 Apr 2012 23:26
the correct way to bleed the clutch is, open the valve on the slave pull the clutch lever in and hold it, tight in the valve then let the clutch out. every time you repeat this fluid should come out of the slave until all the air is gone.
that's the right way to do it, but here's what I had a problem with, when I would pull in on the clutch. It would not move enough fluid through the lines to do any good. What worked for me is I removed the clutch handle and took something and pushed right on the little steel plunger that comes out of the master cylinder. It allowed me to move a lot more fluid than with just the handle alone. By doing it that way. It moved a lot more fluid through the line and push the air out. I think what is happening is it's moving such a small amount of fluid that the air keeps riding back up the line,with a bigger volume of fluid coming out quicker. It pushes the air out
Ken
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Red 06 ZX14 RR
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zixxer14

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posted April 19, 2012 05:46 PM
I would try richcrafts method as I noticed that it doesn't move much fluid when I bled mine also, but it wasn't an empty line so I didn't have to try to fill it & push out all that air.
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riteristrob

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posted April 20, 2012 07:17 AM
Thanks Ken! What you described makes a lot of sense. I'll give it a try tonight. This darn work thing keeps getting in my way.
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zxbob

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posted April 21, 2012 05:00 AM
I'm going to look at a friends 09 today. He told me his clutch doesn't work. I ask how many miles on the 09 ....... He said 72
Bob
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Good parts aint cheap and cheap parts aint good !
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Swiftkart
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posted April 21, 2012 05:26 AM
Edited By: Swiftkart on 21 Apr 2012 13:27
Sounds like the piston (or puck) is suck out down on the sprocket cover, that happens sometimes when bleeding the clutch and leting it run dry, you need to pull it from the cover and push it back in to free it up and make sure it's moving freely and pushed in before you put it back on, that should solve your problem.
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2006 ZX14, Brock CT-Meg, PC, ignition module, E85, 214 lbs suited, 8.96@152.32 1.46 60'
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RICH CRAFT 1

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posted April 21, 2012 05:45 AM
Edited By: RICH CRAFT 1 on 21 Apr 2012 13:50
zxbob, if the clutch lever feels like it has no pressure on it, I would pull the front sprocket cover and checked the rod that goes through the motor to the pressure plate. It is exposed inside the sprocket cover and can pick up rust, if the bike sit for long periods of time and that part rusted up the next time he pulls the clutch in it could possibly stick.
One of the land speed guys on here that runs the salt flats had this problem, when salt built up on the pushrod and stuck in.
Ken
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Red 06 ZX14 RR
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riteristrob

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posted April 24, 2012 02:22 PM
Never would have thought to pull the front sprocket cover off and check the rod................
Thanks guys. i'm out of town until Friday but will be taking a look when I get home.
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RICH CRAFT 1

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posted April 24, 2012 03:30 PM
Edited By: RICH CRAFT 1 on 24 Apr 2012 23:31
I don't think the clutch rod is your problem, that was my recommendation for zxbob, because he was going to work on a bike that had been sitting for a long time. I still think your problem is air in the line and because that hose runs down hill. You can't bleed it fast enough to get the air bubbles out, because they keep going uphill and the standard way of bleeding it doesn't move the fluid fast enough to get the air bubbles out. If you pull the brake handle off and pushed rate on the master cylinder. It will move a lot more fluid. It's really best if you get someone to help you. Get someone to push on the master cylinder, while you work the bleed valve. When I done this. I was amazed at how much air come out. And that fixed my problem.
Ken
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Red 06 ZX14 RR
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ZX14 Montana
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posted April 24, 2012 05:25 PM
When I have done brake & clutch bleeding on my bikes...one thing that has helped me minimize any air getting in; is putting a little bit of grease around the bottom of the bleeder valve to help prevent any air from getting through the threads...clean the grease off after you are done (foregone conclusion). Speed Bleeders are another way of course...but for others having air bubble issues, this technique may be of some use...just my two cents.
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