Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
|
posted March 22, 2012 11:01 AM
 Edited By: Rook on 22 Mar 2012 19:02
clutch line installation
I am replacing my old clutch line with a Spiegler. In the photo I have marked the rout of the OEM clutch line with a yellow. Looking at this it seems as though it makes more sense to rout the new line following the large grey taped bundle of wire on the left side. The new line would be routed behind the left side subframe of course, just t\like the OEM line is.
Is there any reason to follow the zigzag routing of the multi part OEM clutch line, or does my idea sound ok?
Stay tuned, I have a couple more questions about draining and bleeding.
  
|
smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
|
posted March 22, 2012 11:23 AM
Run it any way that will not come close to the TB linkage .. also keep it away from wiring that might after time rub a hole .. Remember now that you are using a flexable line it will move or flex when you use your clutch .
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
|
Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
|
posted March 22, 2012 12:54 PM
Thanks, smokin. Those are a couple of of bits of info that had not occurred to me. Since looking at this picture, it also seems that the clutch line is likely to rub because of steering movement. I bet the first section of metal tubing used in the OEM line is there to immobilize the line so that it cannot move and rub anything under the fairing. I'm sure I can come up with some foam padded retainers to hold the line still under the fairing.
now, about bleeding...
Should I empty the system before I remove the old clutch line or should I do my best to keep as much fluid as possible in? When I did my brake lines, I just put a plastic bag with rags to catch what dripped out of the banjos. Then I capped them as quick as I could to prevent fluid loss. After a good bleed, I had no problem with air in the lines on the front or back.
|
Goldwingmann
Expert Class
Posts: 336
|
posted March 22, 2012 03:03 PM
Kawasaki factory technicians are trained to put each part, wire, cable, and harness in a certain way on every bike they build they do it for a reason.....they are very good and consistent about it. I think you should follow the stock methodology of routing your new line in exactly the same way they do it....then you just can't go wrong....
No substitute for the trained experience of these assemblers....they do it for a reason...the way they do it...it may behoove you not to try to reinvent the wheel!
|
zixxer14
Pro
Damn that was Quick
Posts: 1233
|
posted March 22, 2012 07:16 PM
Yeah right, if they build it so right why do we spend so much time & money modding them?
|
smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
|
posted March 22, 2012 07:25 PM
quote:
Thanks, smokin. Those are a couple of of bits of info that had not occurred to me. Since looking at this picture, it also seems that the clutch line is likely to rub because of steering movement. I bet the first section of metal tubing used in the OEM line is there to immobilize the line so that it cannot move and rub anything under the fairing. I'm sure I can come up with some foam padded retainers to hold the line still under the fairing.
now, about bleeding...
Should I empty the system before I remove the old clutch line or should I do my best to keep as much fluid as possible in? When I did my brake lines, I just put a plastic bag with rags to catch what dripped out of the banjos. Then I capped them as quick as I could to prevent fluid loss. After a good bleed, I had no problem with air in the lines on the front or back.
I use a mighty Vac power bleeder .. bleed the master first and the the slave .. You may have to do it a few times but it's no big deal .. Don't worry about losing all the stock fluid , it will be better with all fresh fluid anyway .. Just keep it off the paint ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
|
Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
|
posted March 22, 2012 08:04 PM
Thanks again smokin. ok, almost 11 pm. out to the gE-rage I go. Had all the fairings off already. I'll bring a pail of water and a rag to douse it down, anyway.
Goldwingman, I agree with you however, oftentimes aftermarket parts are quite different in function so they are also different in materials or shape and the old tried and true sorta goes out the window a little bit. Much of the time there is some little thing that needs to be ironed out to get a mod to work nicely. Something needs grinding or bending or a washer or some bracket needs to be fabbed up. I have a couple mods that required mods of their own. It is fun though. The OEM stuff you can usually count on to be very reliable. No probs with any of my mods yet, though.
|
Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
|
posted March 23, 2012 01:24 AM
Clutch line installed.
lost all fluid
pump lever, no pressure, no bleed nuthin.
I heard this story before. Don't let the master cylinder go dry.
So what do I do now?
|
LeonidasZX14
Pro
Posts: 1277
|
posted March 23, 2012 07:22 AM
Use a vacuum pump as Smokin said. The master cylinder won't build up enough pressure usually.
____________
09' ZX14
|
Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
|
posted March 23, 2012 08:05 AM
Edited By: Rook on 23 Mar 2012 16:08
That's what I thought. I was so hoping to not buy a Mightyvac. I guess this is it after 5 years.
I believe my Advance Auto loans vaccuum bleeders for a returnable deposit.
Also saw cheap vacuumm bleeders at Harbor Freight. That might work in a pinch. Believe I saw a local dealer of MightyVac tools listed on the MightyVac website a couple years back. One way or another I'll get this done.
|
big nickel 14
Parking Attendant
Posts: 30
|
posted March 23, 2012 10:36 AM
hey rook i used the low end mighty vac, 35.00 i think & just kept pouring & pulling the fluid through. worked great bled the slave after good luck
|
Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
|
posted March 23, 2012 12:04 PM
YEah, big nickel! thanks guys. I just stopped at Advance and paid the $60 deposit. Brought home their Powerbuilt vaccuum/pressure pump. It has a gauge that shows PSI and inHg. This old thing would only muster a measly .5 inHg while the gauge went to about 2 inHg. That was enough to do the trick though. Just pumped it up as high as it would go and opened the bleed valve on the master cylinder. After a few of those, I just pumped it up, put it down and did a normal bleed with the clutch lever. Finally just clutch lever. Did master and slave. Tapped line and bled and good as new!
I think I will order one one of those MityVacs. Any recommendations on the exact model? I'm sure the basic model would do everything you need it to do for bleeding. I see one called the PCV that does suction and pressure. Might be more versatile.
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC